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164 Steering Rack exploded view (without damper)

Here are some pictures of 164 rack I think I posted before that are no longer showing up:
 

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164 rack seals

More pictures of seals:
 

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Wow! Thanks Steve

How on earth did I miss that :D

What exactly are you trying to identify I didn't mean to scare anybody with full blown monty of rack's guts but there are a few parts.

Most of us are more worried about the boots and inner tie rod ends replacements thereof!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Mine is clunking - The rack seems to have excessive play in the housing & obviously it needs to be resolved.

Strangely though, it doesn't leak fluid at all - considering it moves a good 10mm on the passenger's end of the rack.

I've ordered a seal kit, but I was curious as to what else I may have required before I get into ripping it out for a rebuild (It's the Wife's driver at the moment - I can't afford the hassle of having it off the road while waiting for bits)
 

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What is moving/clunking inner tie rod end socket, rack shaft in glide bushing or play in steering wheel?

If former you can replace bad ITR end, not much without rebuild if glide bushing worn, though. If some play in rack to pinon gear mesh you can remove some shims that are shown in my first picture in post #4.

If rack moving in rubber mounts then you need to see posts on that repair both by me and one of the OZ Alfisti who found a poly set of bushings somewhere down under.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I have poly mounts on the rack (I think it's me you were thinking of ;) ), both ITR's are nice & tight. I suspect it's a combination of glide bushing & the gear meshing, hence the plan to strip it out & rebuild it. I had an interruption while practicing on my badly flogged & leaky spare rack & couldn't remember how it fitted back together...

Thankyou again for the piccies :)

(What is it with the spell check here? It thinks "Thankyou" is a mistake?
 

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Poly mounts?

evilgidget, where did you get poly mounts for the steering rack?

My repaired passenger mount failed and I'm currently using a cut-up neoprene beer holder covered in builders glue. I'd love to replace both steering rack mounts with a poly equivalent.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Pentagon mount is standard Alfa.

I modified the passenger side with a D shaped one that I found in my parts shop discount bin. I think from memory it was from a laser, but can't be certain. I'll look more to see if I still have the photo with the part number on it.
 

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Bumping up steering rack info

I got my kits from Steering gears and steering gearboxes, rack and pinion steering gears and more. but they may or may not sell you one as some other people have tried to no avail.

This job is not for the faint hearted home boy project. I did this stuff for a living on Navy aircraft hydraulic components for many years and used to rebuild Lancia Beta power steering racks in my spare time eons ago.

As for replacing just shaft seal on passenger end you have to pull out circular wire to get shaft end guide and shaft seal out butr it is a special seal.

To get inner tie rod end off rack shaft you can drill out stacked area and use a plumbers wrench to get it off rack shaft. See link to my Rosso project or search for inner tie rod end (it is not called a ball joint).
 

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More 164 steering rack info

Pentagon rubber driver's side mount is a Lancia part numbered item 82388352.

Circular rubber mount on passenger side part of rack part of rack no known number for it.

Jorgen seal kit for 164 rack is numbered same as rack on their web site 54559 aka kit 554.

I ordered kit today for stock spare.
 

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Hi Steve,

I have a '92 164S that I got new from Paul Spruell Alfa Romeo.
I am pretty sure that my two year old rebulit power steering has what you described as an "inner tie rod" problem. With the car on a jack, I can rock the front wheel from side to side about 10 mm and see the steering rod move in and out at the power steering rack rubber bellows under the car. Also, it looks like my low mileage Michelin will soon be showing steel belts on the inner diameter...

You said: To get inner tie rod end off rack shaft you can drill out stacked area and use a plumbers wrench to get it off rack shaft. See link to my Rosso project or search for inner tie rod end (it is not called a ball joint). Steve,

Unfortunately, I do not see a link to your Rosso project; I do see 93 Rosso 1 164L and 91 S but I am learning how to navigate around here.
\I just found and read the link...looks like a PITA to repair. The other link to Bob's Black 164 went to a real estate sales site...I wonder if the tie rod end in my rack (rebuilt 5,000 miles ago) could just be loose and need to be tightened with Lock-tite?

Our other 164L Emerald green '91 is now on ebay and on their link to this site...new paint & Michelin tires; pay 1/2 price for restoration and get car for free!

Best regards,
Mark
 

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Hi Steve,

I have a '92 164S that I got new from Paul Spruell Alfa Romeo.
I am pretty sure that my two year old rebulit power steering has what you described as an "inner tie rod" problem. With the car on a jack, I can rock the front wheel from side to side about 10 mm and see the steering rod move in and out at the power steering rack rubber bellows under the car. Also, it looks like my low mileage Michelin will soon be showing steel belts on the inner diameter...

You said: To get inner tie rod end off rack shaft you can drill out stacked area and use a plumbers wrench to get it off rack shaft. See link to my Rosso project or search for inner tie rod end (it is not called a ball joint). Steve,

Unfortunately, I do not see a link to your Rosso project; I do see 93 Rosso 1 164L and 91 S but I am learning how to navigate around here.
\I just found and read the link...looks like a PITA to repair. The other link to Bob's Black 164 went to a real estate sales site...I wonder if the tie rod end in my rack (rebuilt 5,000 miles ago) could just be loose and need to be tightened with Lock-tite?

Our other 164L Emerald green '91 is now on ebay and on their link to this site...new paint & Michelin tires; pay 1/2 price for restoration and get car for free!

Best regards,
Mark
Not sure what your were saved from you stated in your editing note but see this link for how I removed rack to repair rack sliding in rubber mounts and how to remove inner tie rod end (yes it does have a ball joint in it that wears out): http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/164...osso-rescue-project-steering-rack-update.html
 

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Hi Steve,
Thanks for your reply and your photodocumentation of this project. Wow, I am glad that Bob @ Auto Delta in Atlanta sent the rack out to be rebuilt.

"...you can drill out stacked area ? and use a plumbers wrench to get it off rack shaft."

Would you explain why it is necessary to drill out the "stacked area" and just what the stacked area is please?

I have a plumbers wrench although it does not look as stout as the one in your photograph. Will the plumbers wrench not remove the inner tie rod end unless it has been drilled out?

Thanks in advance for your assistance!
 

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When Alfa describes "Staking" something in a manual, they are referring to an operation that will bend or deform something (like a washer or nut) to hold it in place from loosening. Picture the operation of driving a stake into the ground. It's that same operation of holding a metal rod in one hand and hitting it with a hammer with the other. The difference being, that you are trying to bend over (or deform) a tab or metal edge on a washer or nut in order for it to not loosen itself with use. When you do this, you need a way to undo it when you want to remove the item. In this case, Steve says that you need to drill the staking out. Some things need to be bent back, sometimes with the help of a hammer and screwdriver or similar metal rod. Some times it can be a pain to "unstake" an item. Sometimes you can still remove items with the staking in place and brute force will overcome the staking, depends on what you are working on.

If you just had the rack rebuilt, I'm sure the inner tie rods are still good, because the rebuilder would have already inspected them or replaced them. Then again that was two years ago. Was an alignment done on the car after the rack was installed? You may have a hard time telling if the inners have wear, without actually removing the rubber boot and feeling for play in the ball joint itself. Grabbing the wheel and moving it in and out doesn't tell you much, because you can do that with good ones as well. With the car sitting on the ground, stand with the door open and turn the steering wheel back and forth while watching the front wheel. Does the front wheel turn immediately with steering input, or does it take a bit of movement before the front wheel moves. If it turns right with the steering wheel, than your inner tierods are fine. You will need a partner to help with the passenger front wheel.
Charles
 
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