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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello Alfisti, I didnt see a thread on this so I thought I create one. Make notes of what your doing/removing and take pictures for reference.

Special Tools required:
-32mm socket(or 1 and 1/4'')
-1/2'' breaker bar
-pitman arm puller
-steering wheel/gear puller
-short 13mm wrench or manifold wrench

First, you want to soak the header to downpipe bolts with PB blaster, as well as the pitman arm and the castlenated nut, the night before(I did mine every night for 3 nights leading up to the weekend).

Remove the steering wheel(you may have to leave the gear puller on overnight).
1)Lift car and place on sturdy jack stands. Remove drivers side tire.Turn steering to left(place wheel loosely on shaft)Make sure the steering lock is in place, remove cotter pin from the pitman arm, and using 32mm socket and breaker bar, remove the castlenated nut.This will require some serious strength, but it will come off.Once removed, use pitman arm puller to remove the pitman arm-a gear puller doesnt work as well, mine cam off very easily.Once the arm is off, you can move the assembly(tie rods) out of the way.Remove the battery and the radiator overflow bottle, if it is on drivers side of engine bay.
2)Remove the signal light arm by unscrewing the 4 allan head screws-note that there are 2 different lengths. Remove the speedo hood binnacle, there is a single hex head on the bottom of it. Remove the ignition switch, there is a single screw on the top that needs to come out(there are threads on how to do this-mine was a replaced phillips screw).I removed the drivers side heat vent , it is much easier to access the through bolts.Remove the vertically placed nut from the aluminum housing-13mm, and the 2 -17mm horizontal nuts/bolts from the housing to the bottom of the dash.Note that there are 2 wire clips around the nut.Remove the 2 screws that hold the firewall grommet on place, and with a screw driver, gently pry free- I had to place the screwdriver between the column and the grommet to loosen it.

3)Loosen the 3 17mm nuts that hold the steering box to the fender-you can access from the drivers side fender.You may or may not have to place a wrench and loosen from the box side. It is easy to access the box side as well with a socket.Remove and note that there are washers that sit in between the box and the fender.

4)Optional***I tried to pull my box out with the headers in place and no way!! I removed both headers, this was fairly easy anyway.You can try without.I also had to remove the oil pressure sensor from the oil filter housing-you may not have to do this. Unplug and note the horn wire to relay connector. Also the speedo cable from the clip ,on the front of the box.Plug the shaft hole where the steering wheel horn wire comes through and place rags on the floor uncase the box leaks.
5)The box is now loose,pull it forward and rotate it until it clears the engine- it will be in an upside down position by the time you reach the hood and will just clear.
6)Installing new box-unless your 100% sure, replace the bottom seal!!I didn't because it looked really good and guess what, it leaked after install! There is a great thread in the FAQ on how to do this its very easy. I used a tie strap to secure the horn wire to the shaft to prevent it from slipping inside the shaft. Slip box in the same way as you removed the old one.Once its placed make sure of 2 things
*1 the firewall grommet is slid on the shaft, and 2 the aluminum housing in slid on and PLACED correctly-you cannot get them on after the box is bolted
Ask me how I know ;)Bolt the box to the firewall, I found it easiest to start from the top bolt-dont forget the washer goes in between the box and fender(kinda of a pain to place).Hand tighten the nuts-you should use new lock washers.Double check that the aluminum housing(the one that holds the signal light stalk in place) is placed correctly , remember that you cannot spin it once the box is in place. Tighten the bolts on the box to 39 foot pounds.Attach the pitman arm.this was a chore as I had to try to place it correctly.What I did was crank the steering wheel to the left and slipped the arm on while making sure that the steering stop met the arm.Then i centred the wheel and visually looked at the passenger tire to see if it was straight. I then turned the wheel all the way to the right to see if it met up with the steering stop on the left side. All the while I counted the turns each way starting from center(keep in mind the steering wheel is placed on the shaft not installed).This was a process of trial and error and it s not exact, the geometry of the wheels doesn't change so the actual alignment is fine, its the steering wheel that might not be centred is all.There may be a better way to do this, and if anyone knows how please comment.Once your satisfied with the position, install the castelnated nut to the pitman arm, place a wood block between the pitman arm and the steering stop and torque nut to 91-101 ' lbs. Replace with a new cotterpin.
7)Install aluminium housing, signal light stalk and clam shell cover. Install steering wheel and torque to 36-39 ft lbs. Connect horn.Screw in the firewall grommet, ensuring a tight fit.Install the heater vent.
8)Replace headers is the reversal of removal.Install rad overflow bottle and battery.Refill box if you haven't already and look for leaks.
**disclaimer***i am not a mechanic, please proceed with caution and use your common sense when working on/under a vehicle.Double check everything you do or have done before test driving.
 

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Thanks for posting, great info. I would like post my recent experience. My car is a 1968 Spider Junior, the steering box broke as we were loading it on the trailer when I bought it. The box I am using to replace is a ZF out of a 70's spider, it has the horn wire passing thru the shaft. I soaked the steering wheel hub with PB blaster a few times in the week before I started, it came off very easily. After reading the above post I really dreaded removing the exhaust, there are no leaks and cracks so I was not looking forward to touching it....the steering box broke at the front and a bunch of bearings fell out, I began to wonder if I could disassemble what was left in place and remove the pieces. I called one of my Alfa Mechanic friends and he said he thought the later boxes were smaller and could be installed with removing the exhaust. I took a sawzall and cut the horn wire tube and that allowed the front chunk that had broken off to be removed. I was able to twist the steering wheel tube out of the box after removing the four bolts that hold the collar on. I just lifted the greasy remains out from the top with the pitman arm attached.

Installing the ZF box was easy. I was going to take it to a shop to have the pitman arm removed but figured I would try to install the box with it in place. I removed the battery and was able to wiggle the box into place. The Junior has very little under the dash to get in the way, I can't imagine how much stuff you would have to move out of the way on something like a 91 spider....

Now to finsih buttoning it up and installing the new steering arms, I believe the one's on the car are original!

Thanks

Al Taylor
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Im glad that you found it useful.
If its possible , can we get this thread added to the technical FAQ?
 

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from what i remember, when i pulled mine,, i just dis-connected all the wires fronm the coloum,pulled the switch gear, the horn. then removed the steering wheel, removed the 2 bolts under the coloum, poped off the steering linkages, undid the 2 phillips screws in the footwell, to remove the seal to the body, then the 3 bolts holding the box to the body, the removed the airfilter box( 1984 fi car) pulled it forward a bit, turned the steering box upside down, and lifted it from the body..
 

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Yes, on the 84 the ex manifold is different and the ZF box is smaller so it is much easier...Replacing a Burman with a Burman on a twin manifold car is the toughest...


Al
 

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Would anyone have a photo that shows the parts (spring spacer etc), in order of assembly on the steering wheel end of the column shaft?

Thanks
 

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Steering Box Removal

I am trying to figure out where this small spacer (with the gap) belongs. I think I have the spring and the tube in the right order.

Does the round rubber spacer look familiar? I found it on the driver's floor after the steering box was removed.

Thanks!
 

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Thanks to all who have posted. This has been very helpful. I have a Montreal and the mounting a little bit different. I have the box loos from its mountings to the wheel well as well as the through bolts at the firewall grommet. Now I am having a hard time removing the steering column (spline) from the box itself. It does not want to pull off and I am not sure best way to separate the two....don;t want to break anything. Any thoughts? Thanks, JP
 

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This may help you visualize it. Item (2) is the inner shaft, item (5) is the outer shaft. I removed the top to separate the shaft. There are ball bearings in there that may spill out; they should stay in place held by old grease, but be ready to have a means to find and retrieve anything that spills.
 

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