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I know the topic of "oils" can sometimes go nowhere but, while were at it... what is your current favorite oil for:
Trans
LSD Diff
Non-LSD Diff
i topped off my steering box a bit ago with some standard castrol 90w gear oil...so far it hasn't leaked noticeably, but if it does i'll replace the seal rather than pack the box with grease...have to agree with papajam that that would be avoiding rather than fixing the problem.

as for the rest...

one of the first things i did when i got my car was to replace the transmission and diff oil, since i had no idea when they'd last been done. i used redline 75w90NS in both, and added the redline friction modifier to the diff, since my car was updated at some point with one of the limited slip variety.

since i was replacing used oil with fresh, and i don't know what was in there in the first place, i can't really compare the redline to another brand...however, it did make a significant difference in both cases.

transmission: smoother shifts, and my slightly funky second gear synchro behaves much better.

diff: half cured the reverse judder i was experiencing when backing up an incline (fully cured once i replaced the transmission mount as well).

i'm sure there are other good oils out there, but the redline seems to be working well for me.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
My fill plug fits quite loosely and takes little to no effort to pry open with a flat head screwdriver. Is this normal or should it snap in and/or fit more snug? I have a feeling it has deteriorated over the years (especially next to the headers). Does anyone know where to source a new one? Also, is it advisable to simply drill a small hole in the center of the fill plug for ventilation (per Papajams suggestion)?
 

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My fill plug fits quite loosely and takes little to no effort to pry open with a flat head screwdriver. Is this normal or should it snap in and/or fit more snug? I have a feeling it has deteriorated over the years (especially next to the headers). Does anyone know where to source a new one? Also, is it advisable to simply drill a small hole in the center of the fill plug for ventilation (per Papajams suggestion)?
mine was in there pretty good...i tried a fingernail at first, but it felt like it would rip off before i ever got the plug out. a mini flat blade screwdriver did the trick, and when i reinstalled it i gave it a couple of light taps with a small hammer.

that being said, who knows how long it had been since it was last removed? i'm sure it would be easier now.

'loose' probably isn't right, though.

even if you can't source an original, it doesn't seem like it would be too hard to find a plastic or rubber plug of some sort that would do the job just fine.

i'm not qualified to answer the venting question...i left mine as is.
 

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So if one found grease in the box and wanted to put oil in instead, how would one get the grease out. Can it be done with the box in place? Pour some oil in and drain? Add some solvent?
 

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The capacity of the early boxes, with the fill plug toward the front of the vehicle, is 300ml.
The later boxes, with the plug on the firewall side, take 400ml.

1/2" will do for the level although the spec is 20mm for the early box. Don't have a spec on the later box.

Also, ensure that the fill plug is vented or the pressure in the box can either force the oil past the new seal/o-ring or blow out the plug.
I have a Burman on my '67 Gt. It originally had the fill plug on the lower half of the top. A modification was made by stopping that hole and drilling a new hole in the front half in which the fill plug is fitted (not vented). Steering house is filled with oil.
The problem I had and still have is that steering is quite heavy and the wheels / steering wheel tend not to come back to neutral position when releasing the steering wheel while cornering. Especially the latter is very annoying. I have to experiment a bit farther but it seems that these problem don't occur aor at least far less when the engine (compartment) is cold. Could it be that heating up of the steering house causes the problem and if so, would that be solved be venting the plug, or perhaps decrease the oil level inside? The steering house was also rebuild so components inside should OK.
BTW Hope you don't mind me hacking this topic but it is somewhat related to the subject isn't it? ;)
 

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Beezztie, are you sure your caster adjustment is right? If the wheel doesn't center that's the most likely cause. I have a Giulia 1300 TI which had been set up by the PO to have almost zero caster, and it would actively stay turned rather than center itself. It's a pretty easy adjustment, and a little more caster than factory settings makes them turn in better anyhow.
 

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Beezztie, are you sure your caster adjustment is right? If the wheel doesn't center that's the most likely cause. I have a Giulia 1300 TI which had been set up by the PO to have almost zero caster, and it would actively stay turned rather than center itself. It's a pretty easy adjustment, and a little more caster than factory settings makes them turn in better anyhow.
That had crossed my mind. At the garage however they told me the caster is set-up according to factory specs (and since they are one of the Classic Alfa specialists in the Netherlands I have no reason to doubt whether they know what they are talking about). I also read that increasing caster causes the steering to become heavier. And this is already the case so further increasing caster doesn't seem a good idea?
Was thinking about a bit more since posting, maybe adding one or two additional shims underneath the top cover might help?
 

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The thingy on the opposite side of the car from the steering box that holds up the other end of the center link and inner end of the non-drivers side tie rod.

EDIT:

This thing.

I see! Overhere we call that a "hulpstuurhuis" freely translated that would mean aiding steering box or assistance steering box I guess.
Thanks, I also suggested that but they told me nothing was wrong with it..
 

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on the steering box , driver side. i use STP oil treatment, on the pass. side.. a zerk fitting and grease 2 times a year.nice thing about the stp it is thick when cold.. but as the steering box is 1" from my headers.. as it gets hot it thins out.. i have used stp for 4 years now.. not one drop or seap from the box.
 

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This is what I have done with my leaky Burman steering box.

From previous Threads I remembered that if you mix grease with oil you will have a compound which is like honey and it won't leak out of the box.

I warmed up some grease and poured some 20W50 oil inside until the desired fluidity.
It has been about 2 months since I've done that and I find no oil stains under the car... Either it has disappeared or it is still in the box :)

My only concern is if it provides enough lubrication, although I am sure that after some time of engine operation the honey turns into oil as the exhaust manifold is close to the box.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Haven't tried vaseline. I'd be worried about channeling and therefore lack of lubrication. I fully recommend the Penrite Steering Box Lube.
 

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I see! Overhere we call that a "hulpstuurhuis" freely translated that would mean aiding steering box or assistance steering box I guess.
Thanks, I also suggested that but they told me nothing was wrong with it..
It's called the Idler Arm in the US.

Robert
 
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