Frank, you will need to remove the outer tie rod and nut, then slip the old boot off and the new one on. Some times you can pop these out of the hub with a rubber mallet, but otherwise you may have to use a fork which will probably damage the tie rod if you're not careful.
steering boot removal
I am going to replace the driver side steering rack boot on the 164 LS
Do I have to remove the tie rod from the steering arm and what is recommend to do this [pickle fork, vibration with hammer or tie rod pressing tool?] or can I just turn the steering rack rod and back the threads out of the tie rod still attached to the steering arm? Will remember to count how many turns .
I had to cut the tab off the rear gravel shield, it seems the the factory installed the gravel shield first and then the brake and ABS lines.
Frank
'94 164 LS
Do I have to remove the tie rod from the steering arm and what is recommend to do this [pickle fork, vibration with hammer or tie rod pressing tool?] or can I just turn the steering rack rod and back the threads out of the tie rod still attached to the steering arm? Will remember to count how many turns .
I had to cut the tab off the rear gravel shield, it seems the the factory installed the gravel shield first and then the brake and ABS lines.
Frank
'94 164 LS
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boot replacement
No need to remove the tie rod from the hub carrier. I always unscrew the tracking arm from the tie-rod. Just mark its position and then count the number of turns to undo. If careful, you can get it back in the same exact position, but if you lose track, get an alignment.
No need to remove the tie rod from the hub carrier. I always unscrew the tracking arm from the tie-rod. Just mark its position and then count the number of turns to undo. If careful, you can get it back in the same exact position, but if you lose track, get an alignment.
Thanks for the responses.
I going to remove the tie rod and use a cone and glycerine to get the new boot over the irregular mass at the end , that way I don't have to worry about alignment issues. Found the technique on Google search: HOW TO USE OUR Steering BOOT?
For tools I ordered the IAP: Tie Rod End and Ball Joint remover, hope this works on the 164.
Frank
I going to remove the tie rod and use a cone and glycerine to get the new boot over the irregular mass at the end , that way I don't have to worry about alignment issues. Found the technique on Google search: HOW TO USE OUR Steering BOOT?
For tools I ordered the IAP: Tie Rod End and Ball Joint remover, hope this works on the 164.
Frank
I'm sure that will work just fine. One of my local auto parts stores loans out tools for free. Basically you buy it and get your money back if you return it. I took out a Front End Service Tool Set and the smaller Pittman Arm puller (1 1/8" opening between the jaws) fit perfect.For tools I ordered the IAP: Tie Rod End and Ball Joint remover, hope this works on the 164.
Frank
Piece of cake with the right tool.
Interesting! But there is a good possibility you're going to rip the new boot. I don't know, perhaps the small end of the rubber boot can take that much expansion.I going to remove the tie rod and use a cone and glycerine to get the new boot over the irregular mass at the end , that way I don't have to worry about alignment issues. Found the technique on Google search: HOW TO USE OUR Steering BOOT?
Personally, I would just unscrew the inner and outer tie rod to change the boot. Do some measurements before and after to check the toe-in. Take it for an alignment if you feel you need it - but I rather do my own measurements than risk having somebody who does not know how to operate an alignment machine!
G'Day Frank,
That's a hell of a lot of stretch, 3/8" to about 1 1/2".
I replaced the right boot yesterday removing the rod end, counting turns (21) and it was a tight enough fit just getting the boot over the rod.
The rod end should unscrew by hand unless nobody has ever lubricated it which would mean it was time it was removed and lubricated anyway otherwise it's going to rust solid and prevent future alignments.
My 2 cents anyway.
That's a hell of a lot of stretch, 3/8" to about 1 1/2".
I replaced the right boot yesterday removing the rod end, counting turns (21) and it was a tight enough fit just getting the boot over the rod.
The rod end should unscrew by hand unless nobody has ever lubricated it which would mean it was time it was removed and lubricated anyway otherwise it's going to rust solid and prevent future alignments.
My 2 cents anyway.
Yes, you will not fit the boot over the outer tie rod without ripping it.
I realize now that my plan for the "cone " method was folly. Wrong type of rubber.
So, I am going to take everyone advice and disconnect the tie rod at the wheel hub, unscrew the tie rod end, [counting as I go], replace the boot.
They steel water main covers in my part of the country for scrap metal.
thanks
Frank
So, I am going to take everyone advice and disconnect the tie rod at the wheel hub, unscrew the tie rod end, [counting as I go], replace the boot.
They steel water main covers in my part of the country for scrap metal.
thanks
Frank
Frank, another thing you could do is to chalk or mark permanently the threads that are there right now and then remove it.
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