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Discussion Starter #1
Hey, Everyone...

I posted this question on the "engine management" board, but I thought I should put it here, as well.

I am trying to get the timing as close as possible to perfect on my '83 Spider 2.0 (L-jet, no points). I've done some searches on the BB but cannot find a reference to static timing except on distributors with points.

Is there a way to statically time this system? Or do I just find TDC, point the rotor to the notch, and then time with a light?

It pings under load, so the timing is advanced too far. Need to make sure I retard the correct amount.

Any help is appreciated, and if anyone by chance needs help with Seventies-era BMW, let me know. I know a lot more about those.

Thanks!

Stan
 

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As above, (though depending on which book you read it calls for setting the crank at the 'F' rather than the 'P')

Loose-n-fast:

Set crank to mark
Align rotor to notch in dizzy housing
Check with timing light
Drive

In any event, when it's all said and done, with the engine warm and idling, a timing light should show the crank pointer lined up with the 'F' on the crank pulley. Which for L-let equals right around 11 degrees advance, and 'should' produce 37-39 degrees full advance at 5000rpm, though it's not something you control, (ICU and vacuum sensor do that), nor is there usually a mark to represent it on L-jet crank pullies. (if it is there, it'll be an 'M')
 

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My manual marks idle advance at 10 +/- 2 degrees... which seems right for a 4 cylinder. It's a little hard to read but it says to set idle to 950 +/- 50 rpm. Those are some useful little tidbits when you have to set that all up yourself (MS/EDIS)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks!

Thanks, everyone. Slapbass: if that is your method, I expect it will work.

When I reassembled after replacing head gasket, the rotor did not point to the dizzy notch when at TDC or "F," but the distributor clamp bolt was stripped and I couldn't turn it. It started right up, but ran poorly--uneven idle, warm or cold--so I decided to remove the dizzy and replace the bolt so I could make adjustments in the future.

With the dizzy back in, I set the timing by pointing the rotor at the notch with the pulley pointer at the "F." Idle seemed better, but it pinged when I drove accelerated. Timing light broken--getting a new one today--so I'll finalize that.

But it looks like I may have air leak issues as well--hose kit on order. I'll tell the entire tale when I get it working right, in hopes that my case can offer insight to others.

Again, I appreciate everyone's input. Love the cars, love working on them, and love the folks who do!

Stan
 
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