1) that wear on the VVT solinoid is a result of it being adjusted WAY too far in.
I would expect you'd find simular wear on the VVT plunger and likely the face of the VVT device on the cam. (it may even be what caused those marks on the inside of the cam cover if there was enough stress to flex/bend/warp the plunger)
Basically it looks like someone either didn't know what they were doing when they installed and set it, or, they deliberately wound it in that deep in an effort to make sure that the VVT was activated at all times. (utterly useless venture if that was indeed the point as the VVT will activate regardless once the gas pedal moves the TPS through more than 53-57 degrees of travel. In other words, you can 'turn it on' at any time you want, including when the engine is not running and the key is on, simply by pressing the loud pedal. All getting it active full time would do to change 'performance' is produce a lumpy idle)
Please to click the L-Jetronic diagnostics page link in Eric or my signature blocks for info regarding the function and setup of the solinoid activated VVT.
2) those grille looking marks on the upper/engine side of the sump guard?
They really look to me like the engine mounts may be roached (engine literally laying on the sump guard and scuffing) and/or the guard has been baffed up into the sump with a good degree of force.
The picture of the guard post cleanup and paint really shows the cooling fin pattern etched into the center cross bar. This is not normal, correct, or right.
With that being said, you'll likely want to inspect the fan and shroud VERY carefully onnaconna if the engine mounts are bad, the sag will allow the fan to come into contact with the shroud and then you'll really have some excitement. (usually to the tune of the fan hitting the shroud and exploding followed by a tow home, rebuilt radiator, hoses, coolant, fan, shroud, mabe a dink or two on the inside of the hood ikky mess all over the engine bay, and bloody knuckles)
It's paramount you check the mounts soon, (like before any more joyrides), as without the guard in place there's nothing to stop the engine from really sagging and wrecking things simply because you hit a pothole or odd pavement ripple. It's even possible to bash the cam cover off the inside of the hood under high torque load if the mounts are really bad off. It won't make a Homer Simpson 'speed hole', but it will definitely leave a big dimple mark.
Don't use the guard to support the engine. That's not it's job. It's sole purpose is to protect the somewhat delicate (and really expensive to replace) sump from kerbs and such. (BTW, the guard is an aftermarket dealer or purchaser add on, not something that came stock from the factory) When all is right with the world, you should have an air gap of around 1 1/2~ 2 inches between the bottom of the sump and the top of the sump guard.
With new or good condition engine mounts, the engine should appear to tilt to the left when looking from the top side while the bottom of the sump will look level. It may seem odd that way, but the premise is that under load the engine straightens up flat/plum and the sump leans in such a fashion as to ensure the oil pickup is well fed.