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Discussion Starter #1
I'm trying to start my car after having it off the road for 13 months and doing some engine work.

I initially got it started fairly easily and it was idling ok but spitting back through the carbies when I increased the revs.

I decided the spitting back was due to retarded ingintion timing but by the time I figured this out and worked out how to advance the timing, the battery was on its last legs.

I had slow charged the battery several times and found that unless it was fully charged the enging would turn normally on the starter but no spark was produced. When I used a voltmeter on the positive side of the coil and earthed the negative side, noticed that cranking caused the volts to drop.

I decided that a new battery would remedy the situation so I purchased one with a cca rating of 500 and an rc rating of 90 which I thought would be adequate. It is a sealed calcium type battery but as far as I know that should not be a problem.

Unfortunately the new battery has not helped. The engine cranks normally but no spark is being produced, and the volts drop under cranking as was the case when the old battery was not fully charged. The battery is currently reading just over 12 volts after a small amount of cranking. The service agent who supplied the battery tested its output after he installed it and said it was ok.

I believe the above situation can be caused by the starter motor drawing too much power, or power leakage somewhere but I don't believe this was a problem before I bought the new battery and I don't see why it should suddenly have become one.

Does anyone have any suggestions what might be causing the problem?

Regards
 

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71 Berlina 74 GTV 17 Giulia Q4
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Is this a standard ignition? have you checked the points? If you have stock points and condensor the spark would just be weak with a lower voltage. Pull the distributor cap and with the points open put a screw driver across the gap and see if it sparks there and then see if you get a spark from the coil high tension lead to ground. It's usually the simple things. btw what does "some engine work" entail? good luck!
 

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What car? What engine? Injection or carbs? What ignition? We really need a lot more info in order to help.

After 13 months of storage, the fuel is likely crud. Gas typically will deposit gooey varnish if it sits that long, and in a carb car I'd be amazed it started at all. even FI would get crud. "Modern" fuels have too much alcohol for older cars, and the stuff goes really bad if it sits too long. the alcohol evaporates and the fuel is hard to ignite.

Pull and clean plugs; flush fuel lines; replace fuel filters; drain and replace oil; flush brake fluid and bleed brakes; same for clutch if its a hydraulic unit; set static timing properly.

Robert
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the response guys.

There is no spark coming from the coil high tension lead.

The car initially started fairly easily once I sucked petrol up from the tank (I cleaned out the carbs before I put them back in).

As I said it was ideling well but the ignition needed to be advanced for higher revs.

I have set the ignition timing to the static timing mark on the flywheel pulley and tried a few positons in advance but there is still no spark from the coil.

I'm afraid I am bereft of ideas now.
 

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71 Berlina 74 GTV 17 Giulia Q4
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Is that no spark from the high tension lead going through the distributor cap or directly from the coil to ground? Did you try opening the points manually with the cap off and check for spark with the iginition on? You might have ****ed the distributor cap off when you tried to advance and screwed up the rotor.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I forgot to mention I have an electronic ignition kit fitted, but your point about something breaking after I advanced the ignition is a good one because it was the only change that I made, apart from the battery, after the car was last starting
 

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What kind of electronic ignition? Some just replace the points with an optical device, some take over the entire advance control. Someone here probably knows every useful modification possible, so if you'd share a bit we really could help.

I'm sorry to be a bit of a pest, but getting useful information from you is like pulling teeth from an angry bear. Since you're fiddling with advance and electronic ignitions and other stuff, you should know what kind of information we'd need to help you with your problem. I do not understand why you're so reluctant to share.

BTW it's more likely, you never needed "more advance". Rather, the jet transitions in your carbs are gummed up. Take the tops off the webers - you do have webers don't you? (don't know why we have to guess at this stuff!) - and soak the bowls with lacquer thinner for a few hours; drain with a turkey baster and repeat. Overnight is even better if there is a lot of deposits. When it comes out as clear as it went in, then put in some good fuel and try again.

Second, it's likely that in trying to add advance you messed something up which is grounding the points or trigger and preventing you from getting any spark. Check over everything. Generally, ignition advance is only done accurately with a timing light and a good dwell-tach on a running engine. There is a rather nice tool to loosen the 10 mm nut holding the distributor adjusting cam.

R

Robert
 

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No mater if you have electronic ignition or not there will be a trigger pulse from the distributer. Is there and if so is there a spark from the king lead when removed from the distributer cap? Again if so, have you checked the carbon thrust in the cap and does it make good contact with the rotor arm. As has been said you have given very little information....do try the basics before embarking on timing changes.
 

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71 Berlina 74 GTV 17 Giulia Q4
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get your spark back and do what 60's said to do with the carbs
 
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