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I would give it one more go and see how the next new starter works out. I suspect that there was an issue with the rebuild if you were not hearing grinding when cranking the engine.

When you get the new starter back from CL, clamp it in a vise if you have one, or secure it toma bench and energize it to see what it sounds like. You can use a set of jumper cables to your battery, negative to outside of starter and positive to lug on starter. Use a small wire and connect to the positive jumper at the lug and then touch the solenoid. The starter should spin. Make a mental note of the sound. Compare that to what it sounds like when installed on the engine.

If this starter fails after some use, your next step will be to remove the engine and replace the ring gear and get a matching starter. That is a big job and will cost a lot more than a starter.

Regarding the 74 Spider 2L, I do not think it was a special ring gear, just one with 130 teeth.

See this posting for a good write up of the starter and ring gear combinations and issues.
http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/electrical-chassis-lighting/197190-starter-help.html
It will help you understand the different years and models but it is not conclusive. I just went through the starter ring gear exercise on my 74. The testing results are in the above thread.
 

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Ring Gear Replacement

Ts,
Anyway you look at this, it is a big job. I think there are two approaches.
The first is to change it with the engine in the car and the second is to remove the engine and do it in the open. Different tools are required for the different approaches.

The object is to remove the flywheel from the engine and then you will have to have a machine shop or engine shop remove and replace the ring gear from the flywheel. Obviously the transmission, drive shaft, bell housing and clutch have to come out to remove the flywheel. Then there is the issue of getting the flywheel off the crankshaft. Those bolts sometimes require heat.

First you have to get the clutch assembly off. Notice the VW ring gear locking tool ($6), worth it's weight in gold!
Auto part Engine Rotor Wheel


Then you have to remove the flywheel and those 6 bolts are tight.
Auto part Tire Wheel Automotive tire Vehicle brake


If you leave the engine in the car, all of the work is done on your back, you will need a transmission jack and high (6Ton) jack stands at least.
Vehicle Car

If you pull the engine, you will need the wheel ramps and an engine hoist and probably an engine stand. The work can be done outside so long as you have a place to keep the car and a garage to work on the engine.
Motor vehicle Auto part Vehicle Engine Car


I bought my hoist and stand off of Craigs List. You can get them new at Harbor Freight or Northern Tools. They are not too expensive and you can sell them on Craigs List when finished to get some cash back.

There are a number of threads on engine removal that will give you step by step checklists. Easy to get it out in a Saturday, especially if you have the tools and a helper. It helps to take lots of photos before, during and after you remove the engine.

I prefer to work on the engine in the open so would encourage you to go the removal route. This will also give you the option of doing a few other things while you are there, like engine mounts and cleaning up ground connections and maybe painting the engine bay.

Let us know what you decide and keep us updated.
 

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Way to jump in!
Keep pushing and you will get it out.
Don't know about the clutch hose. I suspect you will lose the fluid if you disconnect the hose.

While you are there, consider the following:
New lightened flywheel to go along with the ring gear. You have to take the old one out any way. Richard has some and so does Hans Milo.
New clutch slave cylinder.
Possibly new clutch and TO bearing.
You will see marked improvement from lightened FW.

Something to think about.

Keep us posted.
 

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I do it all the time.
Use a 2x under the member to spread the load out. Once it is up, put some jackstands under the front corners.
 

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TS,

I don't know if this will help but I'll offer it up.

I have attached photos of three different starters.
Small geared starter #1005 824 071. Also has a second # 1073017 ??

Large not geared starter 0001 211 987

Large not geared starter 0001 311 110

The two large starters appear to be the exact same size but have different solenoids. One came off of my 74 2L Spider and both fit and work on that engine. The ring gear is 130 tooth model. I tested theses on the engine while it is on the engine stand.

The small geared starter is the type that is supposed to only work with a 131 tooth ring gear. I have two of these. I tested both on my engine while it is on the engine stand and interestingly enough, they both worked without any grinding noise.

I know this doesn't help you but may be why there are so many different stories out there.

If you have the small geared starter, you may want to order a 131 tooth ring gear from Spruel and have it installed on your flywheel. Perhaps you could return the fly wheel and ring gear you got from group 2


Auto part Automotive starter motor Automotive engine part
 

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TS,
Since you have the small geared starter I would certainly pop for a 131 tooth ring gear. That is a known correct combination. I am sure you do not want to go through the removal and replacement of this gear twice.

My motto is to fix it right once. Some times that costs more now but is cheaper in the long run.

Nothing more frustrating than having to address the same problem again because I was too cheap or in too much of a hurry to do it right the first time. Of course my Dad was a tool and die guy for the first half of his career and perfection was the standard in our home and the tolerances were measured in the thousandths, even when laying drain tile at the house. Oh the memories, and I know where I got it from:blush::blush:

Also, consider having your flywheel lightened and balanced after they install the ring gear. You will be glad you did!
 

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Perhaps another question to ask is: Are there any issues with the smaller starter NOT working with the 131 tooth ring gear?
 
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