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Richard Jemison
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8,756 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Friday I started on a new project as there is a couple of race prepped blocks and enough engine components stored in the shop to complete a couple of very high HP / race engines.
I decided this one would probable be built to 11 to 1 CR and have assembled the components and finished one of the race heads using my 13mm intake and 12.8MM lift exhaust cams. The idea being an engine that can be driven on the street using 93 octane ethenol premium or 100 octane unleaded race gas.
At least that`s my direction at this point.

Here`s what has transpired so far;
Block was put through a through chemical and acid cleaning final finish of a new block. That done a steam cleaning was done after the main oil passage line`s restriction was enlarged. At the area of the motor mount it was drilled and opened from about 7mm to a full 3/8" passage. This assures full flow to the rear oiling passages to the crank and to the heads middle and rear cam bearings.
Here`s pics of it on the engine stand:
Gas Engineering Auto part Composite material Metal

Automotive tire Bumper Automotive exterior Wood Gas


At that point the main bearings King Black series race bearings were fitted and the balanced crank with the slotted main bearing oil pick up holes to increase oil supply to the mains was installed. The crank is a larger journal "red" marked crank with all main bearing journals measured at 2.3613 (these cranks have main journal specs of 2.3611 to 2.6315. The "plastigage" clearance in the bearings were .0013 -.0015
Gas Machine Engineering Bumper Aluminium

Automotive exterior Gas Bumper Machine Automotive wheel system

Automotive tire Gas Bicycle part Automotive wheel system Machine


I haven`t installed the pistons and liners but but they are assembled on Maxeeding rods with King Black race bearings.
More to follow as it progresses.
Rj
 

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Richard Jemison
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8,756 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
Early afternoon started with splinting one of my wife`s 8 week old chicken`s leg. It will be interesting to see how that works out.

Went back in the shop to kill an hour or so, and installed the liners and pistons.
The pistons started as AE 10.4 but were seriously modified and lightened. without decreasing CR much at all. Weight loss was significant. .

The liners went in with a thin band of Ultra Grey around the o-rings, then clamped down to seat them.
Pistons went in easily, with assembly lube on the bearings. As well before I put on the rod caps I put a shot of no additive 30 weight oil on the rod journal . Torqued the rod bolts to 45 lbft per the ARP specifications.
Everything went in and on as it should. The crank turned and pistons moved nicely. You could turn the assembly with 1 hand twisting the front shaft! Miller Time!

Here`s some pics of the components:
Crankset Bicycle part Audio equipment Gas Camera lens

Automotive tire Gas Tin can Auto part Machine

Liners, Pistons, and Rods with the King Black Race bearings installed.

Automotive tire Gas Bicycle part Automotive wheel system Machine

Rods installed and torqued down
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Tire Automotive tire Bicycle part Bicycle tire Wheel

Pistons installed. I The piston valve reliefs were widened (but not deepened any, which drops compression) using a 1.75" diameter end mill to both enlarge the valve relief and move their opening lip closer to the edge of the piston so the large valves in the head that has been surfaced .040" can`t catch the edge of the relief.
Bagged it up for the evening.
 

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Since we're discussing chickens and Alfas, which is all that goes on around here, my Auracana broke her leg, got splinted and healed. Had to separate her in a dog cage for two months. And then the dominant chickens had to accept her when she came back, which took about 5 minutes of brutality. She is now pigeon-toed on that leg, it healed at about a 25* angle but it has not sapped her spirit in any way.
Andrew
 

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Nice work Richard. Judging by the casting on the block, I take it this is a 2L build ?
 

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Richard Jemison
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8,756 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Of course it`s a 2 liter! No mouse motors!

Well, after being fitted with new hearing aids today,( I`m so deaf from race engines I can`t hear what I read) i pulled a front cover for the new engine. All I had were Spica versions and they are cluttered.
I put one in the mill and made a decent front cover for the motor. After hydro blasting, it was acceptable.

installed an early tachometer drive intermediate shaft and crank gear with a new chain for it and the upper chain. The early "tach drive" shaft assemblies are pressed together with key ways. They wont slip like later versions that are just pressed on the shaft.

That mounted I installed one of my modified factory oil pumps clearanced and tapered exit port hole between the gears. The relief piston and bore was polished and the spring shimmed to release at 65 PSI.

Next step is to mount the head on the block. It`s a small ported race head and manifold fitted with 45mm carb mounts. I haven`t started modifying the Webers and airbox, but I`m going to wait til I have all the intake finished to mount carbs.
Here`s pics of today`s fun with machines;

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive exterior Gas Automotive wheel system

Original cover

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Bicycle part Automotive exterior Automotive design

Bicycle part Font Engineering Machine Auto part

Finished cover

Gas Engineering Automotive wheel system Machine Nut

Motor vehicle Gas Automotive exterior Engineering Auto part

Days work stopping point
 

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Question RJ: I recently shaved a Spica cover like you did above. After that it would not accept an oil pump without locking up the oil pump shaft once three oil pump bolts were snugged.....I figured that the modification caused the entire front timing cover to warp on me....have you ever seen that? I definitely did not check oil pump fitment prior to shaving the timing cover....I should have.

Dorian
 

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Question RJ: I recently shaved a Spica cover like you did above. After that it would not accept an oil pump without locking up the oil pump shaft once three oil pump bolts were snugged.....I figured that the modification caused the entire front timing cover to warp on me....have you ever seen that? I definitely did not check oil pump fitment prior to shaving the timing cover....I should have.

Dorian
I can't speak for RJ but I shaved several SPICA front covers recently and have had no trouble with warping. Sure it wasn't warped when prior?
 

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Richard Jemison
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8,756 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Yes, the cams are the 1417/457 pairing. The 1417 were built with very similar lift durations as the 799, but less duration at early off the seat durations (.010"to enhance mid range torque. The 799/457 pair made 229 HP when dynoed in an engine by Jim, and torque from 4500 to 8000+ is impressive. They are in both my race cars. I`ve built a couple of engines with the 1417 but owners haven`t shared dyno results.

On this engine if I leave CR at 11 to one it will be over 200 HP.

I`ve done 3 other front covers like this one. The aluminum around the intermediate shaft bushing is thin so clamping it to the mill table there requires a reinforcing plate to take the load if that is done. However clamping really should at the corners to prevent distortion.
Lenul, I have to wonder if your water pump was a stock factory one, or one that is aftermarket or rebuilt allowing the steel impeller to sit farther exposed from the pump body.
On early 1300 pumps the impeller was not exposed past the pump body. Later ones were exposed.
BUT I suspect your issue is with the intermediate shaft being a bit longer than the original. Particularly if the original was a later "no tach drive" one and you replaced it with a early version as I did. If you installed a new bushing in the front housing it very well be thicker than the original. Hopefully you didn`t put one of the thin bushings that go on the back side on the front as well.
You`ve made me think. I am going to install one of my old pumps to insure I have no interference before putting on the head or pan:rolleyes:
I commonly install pumps without the paper gasket, just a thin layer of Ultra Grey with no interference.
I`m out of pumps, so I`ve got to call Gordon today about getting a couple of pumps, having him rebuild some.

Rj





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Richard Jemison
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8,756 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
The bottom end, block is done. Today I installed the rear crank and cover. The upper pan is installed, with the lower pan hanging on 4 bolts for the time. I always leave it loose until the head is installed and timed. That makes small lost chain and cam timing bits easy to find and remove.
I took pics but left the camera in the shop. Will post them below this in the AM.
But the head. The race head I was going to use is going to give up the cams and will be used in another finished small ported race head that has been shaved .040" (1mm).

More tomorrow.
 

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I can't speak for RJ but I shaved several SPICA front covers recently and have had no trouble with warping. Sure it wasn't warped when prior?
I definitely did not check prior to cutting but I have never had a bad front timing cover. I assumed it warped with my modification. I HAVE seen many bad late production pumps however.....which is why I try to stick to original pumps and then install them carefully....thanks. Hope this doesn't hijack your thread too much RJ, looking forward to updates and seeing what you do with the cylinder head.
 

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In your photos, the holes for the cigarette seals appear to be empty. What did you do, or what will you be doing there?
 

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Richard Jemison
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8,756 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Holes were empty when pic was taken.
I use a glob of ultra Grey in the holes and push it down through the holes with the rubber seals. Then remove the excess as it comes out the bottom. Then install the rear seal.
When I post pics taken a couple of days ago all has been done.

Called and left message for Gordon Raymond about water pumps. Will try a PM. Usually get a quick call back?
 

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Richard Jemison
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8,756 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Today I took two of the finished race heads and had both surfaced to 4.370" (1mm cut).
The surfacer leaves a mirror finish. You can see the colors of the rainbow in their surface.!
Now I`ve got to re-assemble the cams in the head and attach the manifold and carb mounts, but the cam followers and shims were kept in correct order so it will be a quick assembly tomorrow or Saturday.

Pics of the as finished engine and parts are below.
Motor vehicle Gas Automotive exterior Engineering Auto part

Automotive tire Hood Vehicle Motor vehicle Bumper

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Hood Bumper Automotive exterior

Head after deep cleaning after re-surfacing
Tire Motor vehicle Ceiling Space Metal

Bottom up pic of the fresh surface.
 

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Richard Jemison
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8,756 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Well the head is "re-assembled" and on the engine.
The head gasket is one of the race gaskets on the shelf. (no I won`t sell one), The fire rings ate twice as wide and all are made from 1 piece of stainless. Balked at using one on this motor but last surfacing should bring CR to 11.5 to 1 or 11.6.
It seems to me I`d be wasting lot of machining and good components just for street use.

Yes I changed directions.. I`m in touch with my feminine side!
Here`s pics as of this afternoon:

Head reassembled

Motor vehicle Bicycle part Automotive exterior Gas Vehicle

Competition Head Gasket
Motor vehicle Automotive exterior Automotive tire Automotive design Engineering

Motor vehicle Wood Automotive tire Gas Engineering

Head installed. Probably not doing more till after the 4th! But might time the cams and seal up the lower pan...
 

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Richard Jemison
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8,756 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
Well, here on Florida most beautiful beaches our July 4th weekend plans have been washed away by rain.
But it is cooler.....

For some time I`ve been going through old "treasures" that have been hidden away for years but some (most??) might be considered clutter. And I have tossed away a lot that I don`t foresee ever using. More will be tossed while cleaning shelves today.

So anyway, I got back to work on the engine yesterday. Cams are installed at the LCs that provided the minimum Piston to valve clearance of .040" intake (104 BTDC) and .080" exhaust (102 ABDC). This results in the earliest closing of the intake valve reducing reversion which increases the fuel/air mix left for the compression and power stroke. The retarded timing of the exhaust opens the valve later lengthening the power stroke.
Both contribute to more torque. Commonly on race engines these big exhaust cams are timed in the range of 105-108 to enhance the power/Torque from 5000 to 8000 RPM.
But now the lowest LC #s usable are marked on the cam caps. The only LC change would be the exhaust side.

I had two flywheel / Clutch PPs for race application that could be used. A QuarterMasater 7.25 Twin disk with new disk (and 1 spare disk). The total weight of this assembly is 20lb 9 Oz.

The flywheel assembly is mounted and my run stand cover for the starter mount and a starter is now in place on it.

Still waiting on the new water pump but once it`s on I cam spin the engine to check oil pressure and CR in the cylinders.

Got the Cam cover clean and will paint it black to match the Euro Airbox.
Have to order cam cover gaskets as I assumed there were some on the shelf or in the trailer. But no....
Pics
Tire Wheel Automotive tire Vehicle Motor vehicle

Automotive tire Tread Motor vehicle Vehicle brake Rim

QuarterMaster 7.25" twin disk clutch assembly total weight 21 lbs
Automotive tire Wheel Motor vehicle Tire Gas

Motor vehicle Automotive tire Automotive exterior Gas Engineering

Flywheel and Porsche PP and factory disk. Total weight 22.5 lbs
Engine and
Motor vehicle Automotive tire Automotive design Automotive exterior Gas

Engine with starter carrier & starter for test runs
 
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