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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Andrew's NOS part has been sold, I originally intended to delete this thread, but Gordon's advice on how to stabilise gas and gas tanks over winter with Ethanol fuel is too good to loose, so I will re-name this thread "stabilising gas tanks over winter"


(7) For Sale - NOS Giulietta fuel tank plug strainer and Spider filler neck grommet | Alfa Romeo Forums (alfabb.com)

Heads up to this item that Andrew has posted in the classifieds - rare to find a NOS one as old gas tends to eat the ones in the tank up. There have been a few tank queries of late and this is one item that we all generally end up trying to fabricate using brass sheet mesh and a large soldering iron

Here is one lucky owner's chance to scoop a NOS one

Ciao
Greig

P.s - when it's sold I'll delete this post
 

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Greig,

I just read on Alfa Stop that the NOS lead ring is not compatible with E 10 or E15 fuels. Never heard that issue raised before.

Not sure what Tony is selling in its place, or rather, what it's made of.

Ray
 

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Mine is 100% compatible.... However only stainless steel seems immune to "fuel" that has deteriorated. It will pit Weber brass components when it goes bad.
 

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Gordon, what do you do about fuel in the carbs once the car is off the road for bad-weather months? Do you use some kind of fuel additive to prevent such deterioration?
 

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My race engines all have electric fuel pumps. If the pump is turned off, the fuel in the bowls can be lowered by running the engine until it stalls from no fuel. The remainder will evaporate for winter storage. Some years ago I learned from Northern Wisconsin snow mobile racers that they float a small amount of "Sea Foam" (snake oil) additive on the fuel in tanks to prevent moisture from being absorbed by todays fuel. Non-ethanol fuel absorbs less moisture than those with ethanol. I fill my tank full in late fall, and drive the car until the Webers are hot, then in my garage, turn off the fuel pump, running the Webers dry. I then add a can of Sea Foam to the full tank and let it sit with NO mid winter start-ups. In spring, I've never had an issue with gummy Webers following this routine. I started doing this years ago, when NLA gasoline was replaced with todays fuel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Modern 'lead' doesn't have much lead in it.... Find an old school roofing guy who has a bit of lead sheet left over from his early days and make your own lead seal.

For that matter you could do the same with a sheet of copper - you just need to anneal the copper once you are done making the seal, alternately a bit of on-line sleuthing 'might' even turn up a large enough copper washer somewhere ??

Ciao
Greig
 

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Well, I do like a bit of on-line sleuthing, as it were.;)

Ray
 

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This reminds me of a thread I read some time ago about the merits of installing an on/off switch for an electric fuel pump. I can understand doing that on a race car, but was that ever a common thing to do on a street Alfa?

Ray
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
All my cars have electric fuel pumps tucked up under the trunk floor, the Sprints and Spiders were easy as there's an 'S' bend in the fuel line where it crosses the rear chassis rail. The S bend part number is 1365.88.720 "Pipe from fuel tank to fuel pump (intermediate section). All Sprints, Spiders and SS's from at least 1956 have this S pipe - not 100% sure about the '55 cars pre the arrival of the Veloce ?

On my Spiders & Sprints I removed the S bend and simply pushed the ferrules a bit further up on the pipes, I then pushed a length of modern fuel resistant hose over the ferrule flare and clamped it on behind the flare. The ferrule was slid back to touch the hose and taped firmly into position with insulation tape just to prevent a potential situation where a loose ferrule vibrates and frets into the fuel line while driving. A modern Ethanol proof fuel pump is fitted to the standard Veloce pump bracket with insulating rubber mounts. The cars I restore all get a Veloce wiring harness to provide the pink pigtail for the pump, my running '60 Spider got an additional wire run into the cabin through one of the holes/captive nuts for the tool kit /jack hold down, leading under the carpet and up under the dash to a hidden switch. I can prime the manual pump or just turn it on to pump fuel through to the regulator & carbs.

The Ti (& the Berlina by extension) have no provision for the electric fuel pumps as obviously there was never a Veloce version intended or offered, so they never got the S bend - I simply cut the steel pipe between the tank & cross member to facilitate fitting the pump. I used a tiny rotary pipe cutter, then gently bent the 2 ends sideways to make fitting the new fuel hose easier.

Mostly reversible & I can always silver solder a slip on junction on the Ti fuel pipe.... but to be honest, the benefits of being able to move the fuel to the carb and then just start the car outweigh the negative of grinding the expensive starter to try move fuel forward. My view on the cars I drive regularly is that here is original and then there is practical.

Ciao
Greig
 

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Gordon, Greig;

Thanks for the great information and insights about living with a vintage Alfa in real-world environments, although Greig's "winter" is far different from ours here in the middle of the U.S.

Your comments are especially helpful when I look down the page and see the Recommended Reading list with the first 2 items being, "Is Ethanol ruining my car's fuel system? and Ethanol fuel has screwed up my carburetors.

Ray
 

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I can only get ethanol laced fuel here in Illinois without driving far and paying more for non-ethanol. I'm sort of stuck with it so must drive enough to have fresh in the tank as much as possible. Todays fuel is designed for sealed FI vehicles where atmosphere air does not degrade the fuel as quickly. Many FI type fuel engine components are now stainless steel, not brass or aluminum. No rubber. I'm not a chemist so cannot guess what the stuff turns into over time, but as a Weber restorer, I do get to see the nasty results. I take the precautions mentioned and over many years, my non sealed Weber systems show no deterioration from today fuel. I AM careful...
 

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Andrew's NOS part has been sold, I originally intended to delete this thread, but Gordon's advice on how to stabilise gas and gas tanks over winter with Ethanol fuel is too good to loose, so I will re-name this thread "stabilising gas tanks over winter"


(7) For Sale - NOS Giulietta fuel tank plug strainer and Spider filler neck grommet | Alfa Romeo Forums (alfabb.com)

Heads up to this item that Andrew has posted in the classifieds - rare to find a NOS one as old gas tends to eat the ones in the tank up. There have been a few tank queries of late and this is one item that we all generally end up trying to fabricate using brass sheet mesh and a large soldering iron

Here is one lucky owner's chance to scoop a NOS one

Ciao
Greig

P.s - when it's sold I'll delete this post
I use non ethanol fuels for my classics. I purchase 90 octane non ethanol fuel from country mark. For my lawn mowers and low compression ratio small block I use 87 octane found at Murphy gas stations.

I store my 2020 truck in the winter months with this gas as well.

Plenty of sources for non ethanol fuels. Look them up on line.

Stored the nova for 2 yrs prior to restoration using this gas with no harm to the fuel system whatsoever.
 
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