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The fan on my 1991 194L works fine, except that it squeeks, especially on the #2 speed. Somehow, #2 seems to hit its resonant frequency.

Can the motor be accessed in any way for lubrication?

My suspicion is that the motor is pretty much buried (I have done the "pull back the dash to replace the steppers" thing, and wouldn't do it again if someone told me there was a million dollars tucked behind there!).

I did searth the archives for "fan, squeeking", and came up with a post by Alfa Corse, dated Nov, 2003, where he wrote "you can get to it (the fan motor) from behind the engine (under the hood), but it's a real pain to remove/install. You have to pull out the firewall section at the top and then either carefully move the A/C lines or remove them (i.e. re-charge the Freon) to get room to pull the fan box out. It's not easy; but it can be done".

Does the collective wisdom of the BB agree? Alfa Corse was writing about REMOVING the fan assembly - can it be accessed for lubrication more easily?

Or, should I just crank up the radio?
 

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The fan on my 1991 194L works fine, except that it squeeks, especially on the #2 speed. Somehow, #2 seems to hit its resonant frequency.

Can the motor be accessed in any way for lubrication?

My suspicion is that the motor is pretty much buried (I have done the "pull back the dash to replace the steppers" thing, and wouldn't do it again if someone told me there was a million dollars tucked behind there!).

I did searth the archives for "fan, squeeking", and came up with a post by Alfa Corse, dated Nov, 2003, where he wrote "you can get to it (the fan motor) from behind the engine (under the hood), but it's a real pain to remove/install. You have to pull out the firewall section at the top and then either carefully move the A/C lines or remove them (i.e. re-charge the Freon) to get room to pull the fan box out. It's not easy; but it can be done".

Does the collective wisdom of the BB agree? Alfa Corse was writing about REMOVING the fan assembly - can it be accessed for lubrication more easily?

Or, should I just crank up the radio?
You blower motor is close to the end of it's usual life. Trying to lube is a waste of time.

Go to ebay buy a new blower fan motor for Saab 9000 from www.eeuroparts.com and get free shipping or go to their web site.

Search for how Bob C and I have done the replacement with and without removing A/C evaporator box. http://www.lexingtonma.net/users/BobC/blower.php

More info on changing motor:

http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/showthread.php?t=36850&highlight=blower+motor
 

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Steve:

Thanks for the quick and detailed reply. Guess I didn't search the archives completely. While my fan motor's days may be numbered, I think I will postpone doing the procedure for as long as possible - I hate these kind of operations.

Since my AC works well, and is charged with expensive R12, I am hesitant to disconnect the hoses. But, it sounds like doing the procedure with the hoses in place is even more of a pain.

I presume that I just need the motor (Bosch blower motor, $63.90 on the eEuroparts site), and not the motor-fan assembly ($221.60) since the thread you pointed me to discusses swapping the fan onto the new motor.

Thanks again, though I would rather have learned that a shot of WD40 down the air intake would have solved it (HA!).
 

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In some cases, the squeak can be reduced or eliminated by squirting oil on the exposed bearing at the end of the motor (lhs of car). That bearing is exposed to all sorts of dirt, etc, and runs dry after some time. I was able to eliminate that same noise by doing the above lubing. I used a spray teflon lube. The rhs (of car) internal bearing shouldn't usually need lube as soon as the exposed one.

If it doesn't do the job, then get the SAAB motor as described by Steve. I found that when I finally installed a new SAAB motor, though, the wiring color code was backward, and the temp/speed controls wouldn't work right until I reversed the connection.
 

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The only problem with running the fan on its last legs is the terrible electrical load you are putting your HVAC wiring through. I just did this job back in July. The only problem is once inside and becasue you have to open the AC system is the other parts you will want to replace as preventative maintenance. Items like the cabin filter, expansion valve, drier, heater core, and both heater hoses come to mind. The noise will only get worst.
 

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It may, or it may not. It is amazing what a little lube will do. Mine was fixed for several years in the S until I replaced the heater core (had 100k miles on it at that time) as a precaution before going on a long trip. Then I replaced the motor as well. Otherwise, nothing was wrong, with no noise. Doesn't hurt to try it first.

Also, you can replace the motor without going into the a/c if you don't mind cutting the plastic housing open to access the motor.
 

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Jay,

There IS a million dollars stuffed back there on each and every US bound 164 Alfa. That is why they lost money in the US and left. You didn't notice the money? Better go back in and check...

;)
 

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Jay,

There IS a million dollars stuffed back there on each and every US bound 164 Alfa. That is why they lost money in the US and left. You didn't notice the money? Better go back in and check...

;)
Man your giddy today.. lol!
 

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It may, or it may not. It is amazing what a little lube will do. Mine was fixed for several years in the S until I replaced the heater core (had 100k miles on it at that time) as a precaution before going on a long trip. Then I replaced the motor as well. Otherwise, nothing was wrong, with no noise. Doesn't hurt to try it first.

Also, you can replace the motor without going into the a/c if you don't mind cutting the plastic housing open to access the motor.
I agree with Del on this one - I think the lubrication is worth trying, as it was a quick-ish job for me, though you need something a bit more robust than WD40. Try Lithium Spray Grease.

I removed wiper linkage (on the right-side of my car, from driver's seat), then managed to move the a/c housing up slightly and to one side, removed false firewall, and JUST managed to get the fan housing out without cutting anything (two metal tangs hold the housing in place against the heater casing, and of course don't forget to disconnect temp. stepper cable from heater matrix flaps arm).

-Alex
 

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Be sure you don't spray into the big black housing itself, as all that will do is make sure that spray gets all through the downstream a/c ducting and into the car itself. All you want to do is drip or spray a lube onto the exposed bearing at the back end of the motor. You can actually see the exposed end of the motor shaft sticking out just a little.
 
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