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Discussion Starter #1
My loss of power steering last week was the result of belt failure, so I'm in there taking a look at things in general.

Timing belt replacement was done last July, not by me. From what I'm reading, my reference mark indicates over tightened. Engine is cold right now. Relieve a little tension, or leave it alone.
 

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But Mad North-Northwest
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Pointer is only valid engine cold at TDC. So if you haven't rotated the engine to TDC you can't tell.

I see a lot of oil there. Make sure your timing belt is dry.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Well I got a F already for glancing over that. Off to sears for my big socket.

That's PS fluid from the pump. I'm looking into my options now. The covers look like they protected the belt well.

Thanks.
 

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While the pointer may only be good at TDC and when timed...I'll bet there's not much difference when you get it all lined up.
Looking at where the nut is in the adjuster slot, it looks to tight to me, but then I run modified hydraulic tensioners so I don't have to worry about these mechanical ones!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Ha. So to put on a new PS belt, water pump pulley comes off. I don't have to remove the crank pulley, correct?
 

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Typically the crank pulley only has to come off for a seal replacement. All other operations do not require crank pulley removal (thank goodness).
Charles
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks Charles. I was just reading an old thread with the discussion of bumping it off with the starter and breaker bar trick. You had mention of a 928 in there!
 

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You don't have to remove crank pulley for what your doing.

I had to remove the crank pulley to get the odd ball water pump off a 164L I just did (see Kevin's Sweet Ride thread). I haven't used the breaker bar/starter trick on a 164, but have on other vehicles. Now I have a compressor and impact gun that is so much better:)
 

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from what I know, if you got off with only the belt being the source of your PS issue, you got off lucky. Either way it's win win. ciao, chris BTW I did notice, thanx
 

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My take based on your pictures and write up.

1. What has a power steering belt failure got to do oil on timing belt tensioner and it looks like engine oil not ATF fluid. Inspect backside of cam pulleys for oil leak at oil seals in heads.

1.5 Remove Madonna Bra cups from timing belt covers and check front of cam pulleys for oring oil leaks in pulley hubs.

2. I would be looking at timing belt tensioner to be sure outer spring is not broken. Can you rotate with needlenose pliers counter clockwise the pointer any farther below reference mark? If you can I bet outer thermal clutch spring is broken.

If once you get to install new P/S belt it helps to remove P/S pump pulley from pump along with water pump pulley. After your oil leak, timing belt and tensioner issues resolved and you are ready to install P/S belt put belt on crank pulley and put P/S pulley in belt and stretch tight to see if pulley will pop onto pump shaft. If not you need 13mm distributor hold down nut wrench to loosen bolt behind banjo fitting, 17mm universal socket or crowsfoot to loosen lrage bolt head bolt that timing belt cover bolts to and allen head wrench to loosen lower adjustment bolt.

Report your findings and progress.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks for checking in a Professor Steve

Crank rotated to TDC mark. Tensioner pointer same as photo above. Tensioner rotates easily CCW rotating pointer further below mark.

With Madonna exposed, front head seal seems to be the culprit. Maybe a litte from rear head. Some of that mess on the bottom is PS fluid. But anyway, I've got an oil problem. This was all redone last June/July, so that stinks.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
My apologies to Gubi if it looks like I doubted you! Guilty of tunnel vision, or blindness I guess.

Anyway, from what I pieced together so far, cam seal replacement doesn't seem as bad as what I thought it might be. Not calling it easy as a first timer, but the write up seemed straight forward. Everything on top of the engine stays on. Lower trans for clearance.

I see the homemade cam gear puller, and the cam holding tool. Is the cam tool available? I'll read all that again and also the car disc. Anything else I should be thinking of.
 

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I am sure you have seen some of these but if not here is your homework assignment for your Timing belt 101 course.

I have most of the special tools for rent with security deposit you will need to remove front and rear cam pulleys to change oil seals and orings. Jason probably still has new mechnical tensioners and Difatta Bros is a good parts source, too as are many other venders.

Looks like your tensioner has a broken thermal spring doesn't it.

http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/164-168-1991-1995/141647-alfa-164-alfisto-steves-maintenance-tips.html

Thought maybe these links to some stuff I have posted would be helpful for setting and inspecting mechanical tensioner, info on changing timing belt, cam oil seals, timing template and part list to do belts and water belt, too:
 

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Yep, several messed up. Linking to wrong item. Bottom one for Paul's seal con connecting to anything.
 

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Thanks. I'm getting some funny link behavior. Can somebody test a few?
Yep, several messed up. Linking to wrong item. Bottom one for Paul's seal con connecting to anything.
Just go to my first link of my maintenance sticky and click on links there they should work better.

I removed others from above post.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I have one here from Jason. Waiting on another from that order if I can get in touch with the man. He made me jump with the fire alarm mech tensioner post.

Thanks for the tip.

From your seal post, it looks like you used a regular old seal puller, right? Nothing too special there? Anything required to push the new seals in evenly?
 

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I have one here from Jason. Waiting on another from that order if I can get in touch with the man. He made me jump with the fire alarm mech tensioner post.

Thanks for the tip.

From your seal post, it looks like you used a regular old seal puller, right? Nothing too special there? Anything required to push the new seals in evenly?
Yes, regular seal puller or strong "ice pick" tool and/or strong screw driver.

If you have one new tensioner do you need a second one? I do just because I like to keep spares in stock. Used one recently on Tra's 164 water pump change.

Do you have the new orings and oil seals, timing belt etc?
 
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