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Try Dean Russell @ Trail auto for the glove box door 313-561-3327. Then try Keith Goring @ Alfa's Unlimited 860-542-2599. Tell them I sent you.
I too love the color!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
One thing I don't understand is that the original color was AR217 but AR217 Vivo Verde doesn't show up until 1969 as an Alfa color in anything I've read. The car is a European version and a 1600.
 

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You don't UNDERSTAND how Alfa does this stuff? Join the club! No-one else does either! There are NO Alfa "experts". Whenever you might think you have a good idea what went on, something new appears that changes your mind (again). I think thats one of the things that make these cars so interesting.
Note the bottom line in my signature.
 

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Maybe it's a verde pino?
I'm not a big expert on roundtails but a friend of mine had a roundtail that colour. Don't know the year anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
someone put a lot of work into a genuine plywood veneer dash, and I hope they didn't see me tear it off (lots of work went into that custom dash!). The car was also primer gray and blue.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Since I only have to answer to myself, and dual circuit brake MC's are available again, maybe I will follow in the great Alfa tradition and put in whatever parts I have available on the shelf. It is the great Alfa-isque tradition as the historical (sorry we are old now) members of this great website all know. Hmmmm a talk with Papajam is in order I think.

As we know, the 1750 68-69 spider is the best spider of all, better wiring, better engine and the best looks. It did not really have bumpers though and the 91 bumpers would allow you to park in more locations. That dash and engine in the 91 though, give me my Zofran.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
The most exciting Alfa roundtail I have ever driven was a Nick Muto V6 Alfa, but my foot was too wide for the accelerator brake pedal area and it was a bit too raw in character, so I am going with my TS engine which has sat waiting to go into my duetto for far too long.
 

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The green color showed up in the US with the '69 injection 1750, but there was not a '68 model due to the new emission rules that the 1600 Weber cars could not meet. The Europeans got a 68 version with the earlier 1300 or 1600 engines. Possible late 68 in the Pina Farina production (where the built and painted the bodies) when the 69's were starting?

Remember that in the 60's Alfa and Fiat factories and suppliers spent more time on strike (at full salary from the state) than they did building cars. Cars were built is spurts - literally from whatever parts that were on hand. Body serial numbers were from the Farina facility before painting, and Alfa assembly at the Milan factory was based on what colors were ordered by the dealers (or possibly the whim of the workers), so they were not assembled in anything close to serial number order.

Robert
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Yes, that's what I think too Robert. The body was built early on (it has an early serial number) and sat until getting painted close to the end of 1968 or in 1969.
 

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The green color showed up in the US with the '69 injection 1750, but there was not a '68 model due to the new emission rules that the 1600 Weber cars could not meet. The Europeans got a 68 version with the earlier 1300 or 1600 engines. Possible late 68 in the Pina Farina production (where the built and painted the bodies) when the 69's were starting?

Robert
Robert

your post reads as if the 1968 spider veloce (roundtail) in europe (and elswhere) didn't get green paint or a 1750 engine. I have a green Canadian 1750 spider veloce. Elvira says green and didn't give a color number and my sticker in the trunk has been mostly torn off. I have asumed the color is Verde Pino AR-216, AR-234 but don't know for sure. It seems the same green as all the green 69 US roundtails.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Frank;

Tell me how you ended up setting up your suspension. My alfa had the smaller ATE's, and I realized later smaller front rotors. I am installing the 1969 on front suspension except for the 2 bolt versus 4 bolt inner portion of the lower triangle. Daron Walker pointed this out but I elected not to throw more money at the lower crossmember as he does for some of his clients (I don't think those two bolts will break, but I'm not an engineer). I thought to myself as he was offering this, "whoa more money(!)," and why should I worry about it when GTA's came with 2-bolts early on and Spinaci has reinforcement welded over where the body suspension was cracked and repaired.

I purchased and rebuilt Brembos before realizing you still would need to use smaller rotors in the front with the early ATE setup. So I'll be unloading some rebuilt aluminum Brembos so I can go with the larger crossdrilled front rotors. I have a 69 front suspension sitting in my garage ready to bolt in.

In the 67 68 duettos the part pictured in the Alfaholics illustration which has four holes only has two.

Wes
 

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Discussion Starter #16
The other thing I did was rebuild a LSD with the Alfa internals and a ration of 4.10 with just two new friction discs. Richard (Alfaholics) told me a alternative would be to keep the rear ATE axle and install their LSD but I was already well into rebuilding my Alfa LSD. I figured the heavier Alfa LSD would be (in addition to paid for) a lower center of gravity in a light anyway road car.

I am keeping all the original ATE parts for now.
 

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Frank;

Tell me how you ended up setting up your suspension. My alfa had the smaller ATE's, and I realized later smaller front rotors. I am installing the 1969 on front suspension except for the 2 bolt versus 4 bolt inner portion of the lower triangle. Daron Walker pointed this out but I elected not to throw more money at the lower crossmember as he does for some of his clients (I don't think those two bolts will break, but I'm not an engineer). I thought to myself as he was offering this, "whoa more money(!)," and why should I worry about it when GTA's came with 2-bolts early on and Spinaci has reinforcement welded over where the body suspension was cracked and repaired.


Wes
Wes

Mine has the 4-bolt lower a-arm--unlike the 67 duetto I had which had only 2bolts. All I did was remove it all, clean it up and replace all the consumables. The original lower a-arm bushings contained only a rust-mud? mixture and bits of rotten rubber. Used a lower arm bushing for the top one. It has the larger ATEs on the front and the small ones on the rear. I did put on all new slotted rotors and all new hydraulics. Mine has the 2 different size spring pans which I kept. Sitting in the garage it looks a tad higher on the drivers side but sits even with me in it. I chose centerline springs and installed them without the 7mm spacers which were in it. It was too low--I couldn't get my fist turned sideways under the sump. I put the shims back in and am happy with the clearance and stance. Red konis set halfway on the front and full soft on the rear. Did not replace the rear arm bushings because they looked and felt fine. Did replace everything else--straps, bumps, trunion spacer, axle to trunion bushing etc. I still have the original non LSD rearend and it doesn't leak or make any noise that I can hear (what is it--the mind or the ears go first--whichever they're both troublesome)

Oh yeah---love your new paint job
 

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....your post reads as if the 1968 spider veloce (roundtail) in europe (and elswhere) didn't get green paint or a 1750 engine....
It almost says there were green 68's - especially since I've seen a few - which is what I meant. I didn't know pro or con about the 1750 engine choice, but I do know thasta 68's were made with 1600 and 1300 engines ("Juniors") Always felt this green was one of the most unique colors for Duettos.

Robert
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Ok

Thanks Frank;

Are you happy with the ride character? I saw your post on replacing your suspension. The 1750 was the best. I had daron put in supports for the bigger radiator for my 2 liter TS.

I'm going to put the duetto all back together and respray it as Derald (I could see the sense in it) said "reassembling you are going to mess up your paint." So I'll get some basic mildly rusty running gear in, Twinspark, and respray. Then I'll pretty up and finalize the suspension. I can tool it around the block a bit that way and I can repaint so I won't curse if I ding the paint. It's tough keeping the repainted running gear and shocks from getting painted up. I can protect the interior and engine bay pretty well with taping. That's what I'm planning right now anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
Robert;

I live(d) in the Evergreen State. I'm green too but have to go to Canada to fish and turn green in the swells.

I used to be able to catch fish in front of my house all the time, but that's a different story.
 
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