Hello I am brand new to AlfaBB and the reason for me joining is my mother’s Alfa. The first new car my grandmother ever bought was her Alfa 2000 Spider Veloce in 1976. That Alfa was also my mother’s first car, however since about the early 90's when both my parents bought new cars the Alfa was pushed into the garage and sadly forgotten about. It wasn't until last year that my brother and I along with a family friend have started fixing my mother's car. We are at a crossroads though, the tires are completely shot from being stuck in place for over 20 years not counting what the harsh freezing and heat that come from Midwest weather did to them. Over the past year we managed to get the engine running and get the car to move inches. One of many problems that we are having are the breaks. If anyone can give any advice as to where to find breaks that would fit a 1976 spider Veloce would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance.
Spider Veloce that hasn't been moved in 25 years
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Welcome to your best tool for getting your car back on the road. Brakes are pretty straight forward with these cars. Pads are readily available at Autozone, etc. Chances are you'll need more than pads though. Alfas are not Hondas and do not do well with neglect. How is the body in general and rust in particular?
I would make a list of everything that needs attention and then start searching the forum and asking questions.
Good start by posting pictures!
I would make a list of everything that needs attention and then start searching the forum and asking questions.
Good start by posting pictures!
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1,727 Posts
Realistically, having awakened a "Sleeper" myself, I believe you are going to have to completely go through the brake system. Brake fluid absorbs water, and water equals rust. The Calipers can be split and rebuilt - All of the major suppliers have rebuild kits- but expect the pistons to be rusted into place. If you search this BB you'll find instructions on how to get them free. Then you can hone the bores using a cheap Chinese bore-hone tool from Harbor Freight.... If this is intimidating, you can call Alfa Parts Exchange, and Larry will sell you some used replacements. While you are calling you should also see about a brake master cylinder, and, realistically, a clutch master cylinder too as it's also brake fluid driven and subject to rust damage. There is one more thing that is often forgotten -the front/rear proportioning valve back near the diff. Unless it's changed you could end up with only the front or rear brakes doing all the work. Finally, you will will want to replace all the rubber hosing on the brakes and clutch. 38 years is a long time, and the rubber either swells shut or fails at the darnedest moment. An unnecessary but nice touch are Speed Bleeders for your calipers. Alfa brakes require a specific regimen for bleeding and these make it easier.
It may be tempting to piece-meal brake repairs, but ultimately it is a lot less work, and much safer, to do the whole job at one time.
It may be tempting to piece-meal brake repairs, but ultimately it is a lot less work, and much safer, to do the whole job at one time.
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In no particular order.
1. Redo all the hydraulic brake and clutch components - install with new brake fluid
2. Remove the gas tank and have it cleaned and checked for rust holes in the bottom.
3. Replace the rubber fuel hoses, filters and probably the fuel pump(s).
4. New tires. The old ones may look OK but they are not.
5. New battery - get a long life high dollar battery because you are going to need it.
When you get all this done, start her up and see what you have got your hands on.
Good Luck, Robert
1. Redo all the hydraulic brake and clutch components - install with new brake fluid
2. Remove the gas tank and have it cleaned and checked for rust holes in the bottom.
3. Replace the rubber fuel hoses, filters and probably the fuel pump(s).
4. New tires. The old ones may look OK but they are not.
5. New battery - get a long life high dollar battery because you are going to need it.
When you get all this done, start her up and see what you have got your hands on.
Good Luck, Robert
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2,045 Posts
What year? if it has a bottom outlet you do not have a problem. If it is a top outlet, depends on how much liquid is still in the tank. If not much, remove the tank liquid and all and pour out of the filler elbow. If a lot, buy an inexpensive hand transfer pump. These have a length of hose on each end and a hand squeezed bulb in the middle. Pump out into a suitable container for later safe disposal.
Robert
Thanks for rescuing this classic but you have much work ahead after so many years of sitting idle. Im in the last stages of a 4 year project to put my 73 model on the road, Its taken a second parts car to do it, which will be parted out shortly. Take your time look at everything, read the forums and you will have a wonderful car when its done .https://www.facebook.com/Keymastr1
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3,486 Posts
LOL!! "the old ones may look ok"!! I dunno, Robert- maybe I should take another look!! Just joshin with ya. Seriously, yes, those tires are shot by looks/knowledge that the car did sit for years. Tires should be thrown out after 6 or so years- even when sitting/looking ok.
But, no need IMO, to (item 5 above), get high $$$ battery. Why? As long as charguing is OK, why spend $$$ on overpriced batts? Sams club (or Walmart), 3 year no questions asked free replacemant.
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3,486 Posts
OH- also drain coolant- flush, add new coolant mixture. Check for leaks.
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2,045 Posts
Buy a cheap battery and that is what you get - a cheap battery. If the Alfa is used regularly, a cheap battery will stay charged. If used only intermittently, the battery will go down and then you have to jack around with jump starting or using an external charger to get her going again. My Alfa is not used in the winter, so a good battery is a good investment against time wasted and growing furstration. I actually have a battery master cut off switch installed to disconnect the battery without having to unhook a cable. Located in the trunk near the battery. Just MHO.
Not argueing with you Joe, I highy value your opinion. This is just one where you and I disagree.
Robert
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585 Posts
Old sage advice..If it is a necessity, buy what you can afford immediately, BUT if it is a luxury, buy the best there is..it will pay in the long run....batteries included, and get a battery tender, AND USE IT!!!!
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1,727 Posts
One more major thing that you should almost certainly change after 25 years of stasis - before you drive the car: do you know what a Giubo is yet? They aren't fireworks, but they sure are exciting when they explode, and old ones sometimes do! Yours is probably the original and thus 38(?) years old. At this point it's probably only habit that is keeping it in one piece.
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I hear ya, Robert. You have a point. And you too have and offer many good perspectives/experience.
But hey, maybe we will have to agree to disagree on batts. Like many things, price is not a good indicator of quality. Even had research showing different age groups prefering the higher priced item with no regard to objective/verifiable data on merit/quality. The higher price most often won out. Thats where bateries come in. Just paying more doesnt mean you get more. Marketing hype on batts is as bad as the hype for cosmetics and vitamin industry/products. (I would never buy though, less than a "3 year" batt). Below that, it is bare bones quality....)
Loosing voltage? You have a draw somewhere. Just what I know at this stage of the game, Robert. But I welcome feedback as always. Im always learning......
Lastly, Can you maybe send me something (old thread/posts/pictures, anything) on your master cut off switch? man, I think I could use one of those real badly!! Thnaks in advance!
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1,727 Posts
Define "Full Rebuild". Does it include paint? A new interior? A new top? A new Clutch? 2nd gear? If these are not included, to get the car up and running is probably only a few thousand dollars. After that, the number can build to infinity....and beyond!
Well it took 4 years to do the body and i think about 5k in cash. I assume your talking the engine If so I just dropped 1k on gaskets and other miss things. When I pull the drive shaft and im doing the work myself so that's the best guide i can give you so far. Others may have other options. Im not rich and i have time, so go figure!.
Most everything i need comes from International auto parts
Most everything i need comes from International auto parts
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705 Posts
Full rebuild of what exactly? The engine? The suspension? Brakes? Paint, interiors?
How many miles on the engine?
Post some pictures, and give more information. You'll get much better and accurate responses.
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