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Discussion Starter #101 (Edited)
The floor-pan panels supplied for repair seem more suited for an initial assembly, without preforming patching it in proves quite the challenge, well..were up for a challenge..sorta like building it backwards,,from the top the silver is the sill -the green is th floor tucked under it, Better aspect from the bottom..when the rail gets welded back in place the sequence gets a bit screwy ..all the run of the bottom pan gets welded in (seam weld) now I understand why I have seen a few patch repairs which makes sense if your paying for it......this takes a bit of time... and a little head scratching and reverse engineering... THIS IS GODS WAY OF MAKING CERTAIN I AM BEING PUNISHED FOR MY ORIGINAL SIN...love of Italian cars!!!

see photos
 

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Quality work!

BTW: I'm a little confused by one photo. I think this photo is looking up under the sill/rocker area. It looks like you have yet to weld the bottom of the chassis and sill/rocker panels??

Pete
 

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Discussion Starter #103 (Edited)
Quality work!

BTW: I'm a little confused by one photo. I think this photo is looking up under the sill/rocker area. It looks like you have yet to weld the bottom of the chassis and sill/rocker panels??

Pete
As usual correct Pete... not till it's way up in the air...this way only the shoulders hurt,.... :grin2: instead of the entire back and neck... we need to get more Motrin... and we need to remember it ain't a Ferrari...
 

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I love the work you're doing!

Another question and again, please don't take offense, I'm not a welder, so I'm curious. The frame member under the floor pan was out - I'm assuming it was so the floor pan could be installed. Does the body/chassis flex with the frame member cut out? If so, is there some sort of jig that you use to align everything before welding the pieces in? Or do you use hand tools (levels, protractors, etc)?

Thanks again for the photos. Looks awesome!
 

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Very impressive. I've been told to look for sagging rockers when buying a Spider (weak from rust or poor repair work). They tell me to look down the bottom of the door and make sure the rocker gap follows the door. Your job is spot on! Keep up the good work!
 

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Discussion Starter #107
I love the work you're doing!

Another question and again, please don't take offense, I'm not a welder, so I'm curious. The frame member under the floor pan was out - I'm assuming it was so the floor pan could be installed. Does the body/chassis flex with the frame member cut out? If so, is there some sort of jig that you use to align everything before welding the pieces in? Or do you use hand tools (levels, protractors, etc)?

Thanks again for the photos. Looks awesome!
Remember all sills have been replaced already, it would have been easier and possibly destabilizing to do the floor at that time. The floor panels are constructed in such a fashion as best suited for an initial assembly's , and are a challenge as a repair, (unless you willing to do a patch, ) which I am not.

Post #100 hints at the issue, that support running longitudinally (part of gearbox support) was removed to install the floor pan without a patch job. a multi wall pipe has been constructed as a repair and with technique of brazing within the double wall structure (once removed) the repair will overlap the Id of the section removed, and outer section will be mated and then plug welded (through and through) the floor pan and remaining outer floor pan support is TIG welded and seam filled...
 

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I think I got it. Since the rockers are solid (and the drive shaft tunnel is intact), there's no flex/sagging when removing the frame member and floor pan. So, to do the job properly - change the floor pan vs patch, the frame member can be safely removed and was done. The floor pan is removed and the floor prepped. The frame member is then installed with a "repair" section that overlaps on the inside to make it strong (I'm assuming on both ends of the removed section), then it's welded to the floor pan with plug welds. Then the floor is welded in place and seam filled, ground, etc.

I have a 1974 Spider that's going to need floor pan work. The rust is minimal, but there are holes, so I'm not sure if I should change the entire pan or do a repair job. It's a low mileage, very original car, so I'm thinking it's best to change the pans.
 

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I'm sure I've seen the floor panels installed with that chassis rail and rockers still in place, but maybe by splitting them in half. I installed the floor first and then the sill/rocker chassis rails, but yeah unnerving looking at your car cut back to the gearbox tunnel. I had a chassis frame holding it all together.

As always, there are many more ways to skin a cat :)
Pete
 

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Discussion Starter #110
I forgot to mention a floor jack supported the weight of the gearbox and engine, we incorporated masons levels on the X, Y planes, (primitive but a good reference)..
 

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I am about to head down the exact same road with my new to me 86 Graduate. I hope i don't run into as much rust, but i know i have some of it. Thanks for the pictures and info.
 

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Discussion Starter #112
Spider Restoration.... or am I to old for this nonsense..

I am about to head down the exact same road with my new to me 86 Graduate. I hope i don't run into as much rust, but i know i have some of it. Thanks for the pictures and info.
Boy I hope not... :grin2:
 

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Discussion Starter #115
Spider Restoration.... or am I to old for this nonsense..

So........ floor pan is in ...left side from bottom right side from top..then slid it forward an inch. what a pain in the ***. Tucked up into inner sill properly. screwed in to hold place now for the seam welds..
 

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Discussion Starter #117 (Edited)
@PSk Thanks Pete ...I think I am getting neurosis symptoms..tucked up properly, taking my time to weld in, trying for minimal distortion.. hope I live long enough to enjoy this....
 

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Those pans look SO good, my 73 had silver dollar size holes that I patched.
Wasn't must rust on the car when I got it, being an Arizona car from Bisbee.
Slow but still working on it.:frown2:
 
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