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Well ,, I dont know which Guiseppe designed this nightmare, but he needs to go back to school... they must've put the clutch master cylinder on before installing engine.. Any way after 4 hours and the solution came to me at 1;00 am in a dream.... here's how to get the bottom bolt out without removing anything. You need standard length about 3" L shaped 6mm allen , 6mm ratcheting closed end wrench, 13mm open end wrench.

remove the clutch pedal pin to the master clutch cylinder,, washer and cotter,, then bungie the pedal up to the seat so itis out of the way,, then push in and up on the cylinder fork actuator , so it is up and out of the way,, now you can get the allen into the capscrew

there is no room to move the bottom nut holding the clutch master cylinder on the booster,,, so just get a bite on the nut with the 13mm oe wrench... then slide the 6mm allen onto the 6mm closed end ratcheting wrench,,, then feel the bottom allen cap screw and wiggle" the allen/ratchet assy until it engages in the 6mm capscrew,,then pull towards to you ,,holding the 13mm wrench at the same time ,, success!

only to find the master cyl was in perfekt Konditshun
 

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I agree. That bottom bolt is a royal pain!
 

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I got mine like this when I rebuilt the master (my S4 has normal hex bolts, not a socket head allen like some do)......wasn't that difficult once I worked out the solution...it just took me an hour working out the solution!
I reckon I could do it in 20 mins now.

the flexible shaft on the socket was the trick at getting the angle to turn in there!
The title is mis-leading because it's about the MC not the slave;)

Need help on clutch slave cylinder replacement 1987 Spider
 

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The Spider clutch MC is easy compared to a GTV6.
 
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And compared to a Porsche 928 S4. ;)
 

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Yep, Alfa wasn't thinking of the mechanic

I remember reading about a modern Bentley being redesigned around the front area because they realised that to replace a headlight bulb would take a couple of hours. Alfa would have said, so what ... :D

Pete
 

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Oh, boy, I can't wait - I just got my NOS slave cylinder and hose the other day.
 

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Slave cylinder is a lot easier with good snap ring pliers. I usually soak the connection from the hose to the solid tube with WD or PB the day before to make them easier to separate.
 

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Hmm... I don't remember it being all that difficult of a job. But I was pulling the brake booster and brake master at the same time. Anybody complaining about access issues on a Spider has never had to work on something truly vexing.
 

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With Alfa Romeos, while it might take longer, it is often better just to unbolt and remove things in the way, or as a large sub-assembly, than to try and take short cuts. I always take a deep breath, let it out slowly and try to turn off the frustration register in my brain and start unbolting things, with a zombie like blank face ... oh, and ensure you never need to finish the car by a certain time, as that will guarantee the job will turn into a nightmare

Pete
 

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One gets better by the fifth time on the same type repair.

However, the solution to being stressed about the difficulty of a recent repair on an Alfa, volunteer to replace the heater control valve on a Montreal. If one is not available, a Spider is close.

Suddenly, being able to stand upright and breathe, with light, and both eyes able to focus seems like a walk in the park.
 

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Get a 1/4" 13mm universal socket, 8 inch long extension and a ratchet. Regular L shaped 6 mm allen wrench. Use 13mm wrench on top nut.

Loosen the pipe first. Then put the socket on the lower nut. Hold the allen wrench up against the head of the bolt. You should be able to feel the hole with the wrench. Turn the nut. It will either loosen or turn the bolt. When the bolt turns the allen wrench will drop into the bolt head. Proceed to undo the nut. Then undo the upper one. Once undone pull the master forward and then pull the cotter and clevis pin.

To reinstall. Put the master in the hole and attach the pipe. Leave it finger tight. Install clevis and cotter pin. Put an allen bolt onto the wrench. Push master all the way into the hole. Angle the wrench with the bolt down and into the hole. Put nut and washer on. Use socket wrench to snug up. Install top bolt and nut washer. Once top bolt is in. Finish tightening up the lower bolt. Then tighten the upper one. Bleed and your done.
 

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Jim,
Your combination of experience and memory is impressive. :)
 

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i just remove the brake booster off the car, and welded on the 2 bolts that the clutch master cly slides onto, this way i just loosen the 2 nuts on the master cly and remove it....sorry for the post.. i thought it was for the master cly.. when i worked at alfetta motors we just ripped the snap rings off and replaced them with new one,, they are cheap
 

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However, the solution to being stressed about the difficulty of a recent repair on an Alfa, volunteer to replace the heater control valve on a Montreal. If one is not available, a Spider is close.
.... I just bought an 81 Spider and the lever is dead stuck..... Whelp....
 

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.... I just bought an 81 Spider and the lever is dead stuck..... Whelp....
I would not try to force the lever and the valve or you may end up with antifreeze leaking into the car if that valve leaks when it gets unstuck.
FYI, The last time i went into the heater, I removed the dash and replace the valve, the heater core, the hoses and the fan motor because i did not want to do it ever again on the same car.
 
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Get a 1/4" 13mm universal socket, 8 inch long extension and a ratchet. Regular L shaped 6 mm allen wrench. Use 13mm wrench on top nut...
You make it seem easy but that I recognize that is years of experience speaking.
 

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.... I just bought an 81 Spider and the lever is dead stuck..... Whelp...
You have removed the MC and are sure it is the lever and not one of the hydraulics components that is stuck?
No amount of yanking on the pedal will move it? This must be a car that has been sitting for quite a while.
Then remove the brake booster/pedal assembly to be able to work on the lever easily. Disconnect the hydraulics, remove the brake MC , remove the rubber pedal pads . 4 nuts : the two top ones are visible under the hood, the lower ones are from inside.
 
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