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Spider Head Gasket Replacement Completed....Here Are The Results

20992 Views 56 Replies 15 Participants Last post by  alfajp
4
All,

I just completed the head gasket replacement on my 1986 Spider Quad, thanks to Vintre’s excellent post located at:

http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/spi...replacement-dummies-procedure.html#post943718

The step by step procedure was spot on and could not have done it without it. Thanks, Vintre.

ghnl and bianchi1 also helped me with some advice along the way with L-Jet issues (ghnl) and stuck head (bianchi1). Thanks to you two as well.

As far as the “debate” on what to put down on the real oil drains of the head:

- Gray Permatex
- Permatex Copper Spray
- Nothing

I went with the gray Permatex and no issues. For what that is worth.

I was delighted when the Spider immediately started after all the work was done. I have been (gently) driving it and ensured to re-torque my head bolts after the engine was hot….amazing that they were able to turn to 61.5 ft.-lbs., yet they did!

In any case, attached are some pictures of the revitalized engine as well as the car itself. I took time to wax and polish it as it is being entered in it’s first show tomorrow, Motori Italiani in Charlotte, NC. While the car is not show quality (interior pic shows what my next project is….), my friend is running it as a way to bring the broader Italian car community. I have never heard of some of the other Italian brands like Ferrari, Lamborghini, etc….have you? (wink). For those in or near Charlotte, the event is located at 131 Main parking lot (a restaurant). Address and directions are:

9886 Rea Road
Charlotte, NC 28277

Directions: I-485 to Exit 59 Rea Road. Go South on Rea approximately 2 miles. Take a right on Ardrey Kell. 131 Main will be on your right. Use this address for GPS or MapQuest.

Show is free to the public and runs from 11 Am to 3 PM. Few other (nicer than mine) Alfas will be there too!

Sorry for the long post. A lot to share and thanks to give! I have had my Spider for almost one year now and could not have done half of the things I did without the support of this wonderful community!

John

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Just a quick couple of questions-
Did you bypass the heater core for any particular reason?
What are your plans for the carpet?
Where are the grounds that used to be attached to the additional air slide mounting bolts on the cam cover?
Sorry, just being nosy. ;)
jpalfisti,

Really glad the post on head gasket procedure helped.

I couldn't have said it any better, "I couldn't have done half the things without the support from this great community"

Have fun and good luck at the show this weekend.

We still have snow on the ground and salt on the roads up here :(

Vin
AnthonyR,

To answer your good questions:

1. Bypassed heater core because the IAP valve (new) I installed had a hairline crack and dumped coolant over the driver's floorboard until I could get the coolant level drained off and cleaned up the mess. Had to get the car on the road and am waiting on a replacement valve. Will install it and the new hoses once I receive it.

2. One of the POs decided that the factory red was no good and glued the above gray carpet OVER the factory red, thereby ruining it. I am going ot invest in a new, red carper kit and new door panels, etc. to bring it back to the factory look.

3. All grounds are routed to the ground connector bolt on the rear of the intake manifold. This is how I received the car and have not seen ground connections on other engine pictures from what your reference.

Hope the answers help.

**Vintre: nice reply, thank you.

Thanks, John
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All grounds are routed to the ground connector bolt on the rear of the intake manifold. This is how I received the car and have not seen ground connections on other engine pictures from what your reference.
Originally your car came with a single ground eyelet attached to the point you're referring to, with the other grounds fastened at the AAS as in the picture. It's part of(if not completely) the reason for the metal washers at the rear cam cover nuts- to provide a path to ground since these other grounds were on the cam cover. Is it a better idea to have them all together at that one point where yours are, is up to speculation. A lot of people probably moved them all down to where yours are. Probably just to not see them. :rolleyes:

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AnthonyR,

Makes sense why they would be located at the AAV mount, as your picture shows. Had not seen it until you pointed it out. Have not seen any performance problem with where they are located...did make sure the clean the connections as well as put in a new M5 bolt/washer on the intake mount. Thanks for sharing this info.

Wonder what papajam's take is on it since he is guru of all things wiring?

Thanks, JP
JP,

Hate I missed the show as you know I was getting the garage ready for the new addition of the GTV-6. The Quad looks great and shows well in the pics here and the ones you sent earlier. Alright time for payback as you know.....you will be spending some time with a GTV-6 now!!!

BigE
Big E, Ready and willing to get that GTV-6 running as smoothly as the Quad is. I am your (almost) free labor. Thanks for the compliments.
Antony is correct. There are two ring terminals on the AAV from the factory. One ring terminal has 2 wires while the other has either 2 wires (82-85 non-heated O2 sensor) or 3 wires (86-up heated O2 sensor; the 3rd wire being the sensor heater ground). The grounds on the intake mount are for the ignition ECU.

A powered device does not care where the voltage potential originates. One could run a headlight ground to the rear license plate for all the headlight cares. There are a number of BBers that have moved the grounds at the AAV to the intake mount. This will not affect the devices function (but it may cost you at a consourse ;) ).
Jim,

Thanks for the reply and I appreciate the education!

**Good catch Anthony.

JP
As long as we're making noise about the AAV and what gets anchored to it for the sake of correctatudeness, shouldn't there be studs holding the AAV to the cam cover instead of bolts?
M6 x 1.0 x 12?mm bolts.
AAV's on both our Spider & GTV6 have bolts.

There is a good photo on the L-jet diagnosis page:


On the intake side of the engine are a couple of grounds. One on the intake itself and one on the cam cover, under one of the bolts securing the AAV (Auxiliary Air Valve). Clean and tighten all of those. (note - on my Spider I attached both of these grounds to the bolt on the intake. That way there is one less item to fiddle with when I R/R the cam cover.)
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I guess I'm the only one who ended up with studs there, and it just seemed so 'right' given the use of studs elsewhere to help prevent strippage LOL
Ah well, I tried. I'll wander back off into my corner now before I inadvertantly get someone in real trouble :D
drugs 'r bad, m'kay?
AnthonyR,

To answer your good questions:

snip

2. One of the POs decided that the factory red was no good and glued the above gray carpet OVER the factory red, thereby ruining it. I am going ot invest in a new, red carper kit and new door panels, etc. to bring it back to the factory look.

snip

Hope the answers help.

**Vintre: nice reply, thank you.

Thanks, John
I actually like the look of the gray carpet, but too bad it was installed so poorly. The red carpet was one of the few things that I didn't like on the Quad over the Veloce. YMMV.
I actually like the look of the gray carpet, but too bad it was installed so poorly. The red carpet was one of the few things that I didn't like on the Quad over the Veloce. YMMV.
As an Italian, I can appreciate the the addition of the bright red carpet. It's like back in the nineties when those bright, ornate Versace dress shirts were so popular. If you're gonna go there, go all the way. Nobody remembers subtle. :)
Nice tutorial. Maybe I missed it, but did you do the valves (laping)? Kinda convenient to do once one is down there, eh?

Nice clean car.
Killgore, thanks for the comment. If it was a better grade of carpet properly installed, may have not been a big deal.

Anthony, I agree with you, going to the factory red carpet and rework the door panels to have the gray on black.

Joe Papa, I did have the whole head reworked including valves, guides, machining, cam followers, etc. Had this outsourced to a local shop that specializes in Italian cars. Also sent the injectors for service to Cruzin Performance....both of those things have made the car run better than ever. Thanks for the compliment on it being a clean car.
OK.....now a follow up question on exhasut issues

All, I have had great success with no leaks, oil or water, after the head gasket replacement.

However, now the car seems to run a little rich, although timing is correct, and I noticed a sooty discharge from the exhaust that I had not noticed before.

Car is using a little oil, which could be from the bottom end of the engine as I did nothing on pistons, rings, etc. yet there are no external leaks or drips and coolant is clean and oil free.

Thoughts? Any assistance is greatly appreciated.

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If that's coming in the morning after a cold startup and its more soot than anything else, it's usually not something to worry about.

Lotta folks get the ikk under those circumstances, particularly if when driven the day previous the exhaust wasn't hot enough to burn off any residue it collected, then coupled with whatever moisture that got sucked in with the air as things cooled, it'll basically spew soot as the wet picks up the black from the pipe and spits it out the first few minutes the engine is run.

Some keywords that might amuse you:
'white pants'
'light colored pants'
'sooty exhaust'
'soot from exhaust'
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