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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So I have started at what I guess is a 2 - 3 year restoration of my boat tail. To repeat a little from my earlier threads i have owned it since 2012 and finally decided to start the restoration 2 months ago. Anyway I will post progress already made over the next few days.

Suffice to say the body is marginal on being economic to repair due to rust but the upside is its pretty original and a UK supplied rhd. It was restored fairly badly in the 1980,s I think with all the overplating horrors etc which is as usually causing a few problems. It looks better than it is due to the 1980,s outer panels covering the 1970,s undercarriage !

Will be a few questions to the wise on the way for sure

Some pics to get things going


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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
So I have had a go at the driver side sill and floor and at one point the lack of metal is quite alarming.
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Having cut the sills out I then set about putting the inner sill back in but the front was in fresh air. I also took the opportunity to drop the inner down by about 6mm as the there was never enough room for the lower door seal.
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Then started to weld it in
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Next step floor and rails out

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Then rear floor in with cross member but I had to fabricate a new rear chassis rail as not available to buy

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Whilst the front floor is out I decided it would be a good time to fit EPAS as one thing I dont like about old cars is heavy steering. I intend to do the job so its reversible. I have decided to fit the corsa B system and have seen someone on the forum has done the same.

Certainly much easier with no front floor in place and the shell upside down. So I have been on this for a week and its all but done apart from the dreaded Burman cracking. More on that later

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The lower shaft cut and welded to the corsa B knuckle shaft

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Upper column shaft corsa b welded to the original upper shaft and outer housing shortened and fitted to the motor



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So its all in now but I have some rust in the plenum that I need to correct.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Now to the dreaded Burman case.
I thought I was ok then spotted a 1" crack so cut out and started welding. Found it a real challenge due to the dirty metal. Then I spotted another two smaller ones on the lower end so after 4 hours welding and no end in sight as I then found yet another crack in the upper end its for the scrap bin. Ah well probably best anyway given the EPAS.
Looks like Alfaholics will be the beneficiaries. The rest is ok apart from the need to locate a new upper bearing and get the pinion nose dressed.

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Discussion Starter #7
Thats me more or less upto date. I have a question for the wise. When I took out the windscreen the fit was terrible at the lower left corner. In fact at the bottom the screen seems to touch the frame in the middle but gapped at the corners. So Im trying to figure are they all like this and if so should I correct it or do I have an S2 screen fitted in an S1 ? Certainly the screen seems to be flatter than it should be.

Those with Duettos how well did the screen sit without the seal in place ?
 

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I don't know about Spider door seals, but the Coupe door seals and their location/fit are a serious problem and require trial fitting, stress management and good problem solving skills. I would look at trial fitting doors before too much more welding, especially as you are relocating the inner sill.

Best
Pete
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
I laid the door in the aperture for the reasons you suggest. It also affects whether the front floor pan is going to fit
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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
So I have now fixed the plenum corrosion and took the opportunity to beef it up as the epas torque reacts in this area. I have also welded in the front floor but my gas has run out. Will have to see if I can get some soonest but this lockdown.
The plenum took me a while to make the repair piece

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And the floor, just needs some scuttle repairs and the front chassis rail

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Discussion Starter #11
Scuttle repairs started, closing the gaps to the floor. I will do the outer section later when the wing comes out to sort A post and middle sill etc. I wanted to reinstate the original seam look so fabricated the pieces with it restored as there are more curves than it appears.


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Started on the front floor rail. Taken me a day just to work out where to drill the holes for the pedal mount / master cylinders and to recover it from the rust. Getting to the front pivot was like peeling the proverbial onion.

This is the good side

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Rail mounted to the old steering box as a reference

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Need to weld it all in and cut the holes in the floor. Measure 12 times cut once , I just hope it works

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Discussion Starter #12
Prepared the rail adding crush tubes for the master cylinders and cut the whole in the floor and rail for the pedal pivot.


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Looking inside

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Went to fit the hockey stick on the rail but the spring mount was corroded so cut out and repair required first

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Discussion Starter #13
I have welded the front rail so driver floors etc are getting there, I have also welded attachments for the various pipes etc, so if any are missing please shout.

I have now moved onto the front wheel arch area and its not pretty. The full enormity of how much work this shell needs is hitting home now, I did realise it was a mess but even bits that dont rust are rusted out plus the ton of overplate is really hard work, easier to get in to weld than it is for me to grind back out.
Another order to Classic Alfa for a large sum of cash to keep things rolling.

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I will have to cut out the top arm mounts as they are all patched up with some holes and in the way of fixing the shock mount and inner panels.

So i made this tool to accurately locate the new mount from opposite sides. I decided to machine the pins for better accuracy and location. A bit over engineered at 0.002" clearance , I got carried away.

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And in place

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The inner wing area is going to need some work. I will cut the rust then plate with 2mm to reinforce it due to known weakness in this area and use it as an excuse not to spend many more hours getting the original look on the new steel.

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Starting to repair the shock mount, work in progress. What a mess with overplates etc. I had to cut the back out as I couldnt get in. I have a question. Should the spring platform in the above and below pics be open in the centre like it is or is it just rusted out ?


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In re fabrication
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Rusted out I believe, sorry.

Chin up, but it's hard sometimes isn't it. Pumping myself up to do my passenger door has taken a lot of energy ...
Pete
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks Pete. I know i just have to keep ploughing through it. Good luck with your door. I just ordered two new ones for mine but fitting will no doubt still be a challenge.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Well the spring platform was pretty sick so along with the suspension mount had to come out although the suspenion mount would stop the spring breaking free. I plasma cut it out, it would have been a challenge with the grinder as some areas are inaccessible.

So the plate is made but I need to blast the platform so I get a good clean weld. Once the plate is in then I should turn the corner and start coming back together again.

The conical spring seat is tired as well but part of it is cone shaped. Any issues with making a top hat instead as conical would mean making some sort of forming tool.

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Discussion Starter #17
I decided that the lower spring platform was ideal to use in the upper location at not much cost. So here it is plated, top hat cut and machined and welded back together.

Welding X member a bit of a pain due to 50 yrs of oil trapped between skins so had to dump the Tig and Mig it.

Next job is to get the suspension mount in using the aforementioned jig

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Welds smoothed on top side where you can see but these lower ones left for strength and cant get in there anyway


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Clever!, and impressive lathe

Pete
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Had the lathe 30 yrs, I had to repair it as someone had broken the drive cones but its been running ever since. Im no turner but its ideal for most jobs I do like the epas mods for instance. Its a continuously variable tool makers lathe and a bit tired now like me.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Nearly there with the inner wing. It feels like doing the job twice as it has two skins, making templates and fitting a slow old job.

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Having studied the set up and the reported cracking issues around the mount I concluded the issue isnt really best solved by thick plates. The spring pan plate is actually quite flexible as is the inner wing so the combined load of shock mount and suspension top link flex things when cornering.

I currently have access to do something a little different and hidden so I fitted internal box section (20 x 1.5) that will be hidden and ties the top and bottom rail together, much better I value than a plate and less weight.

The right box section ties the suspension mount , spring pan and upper rail together. The left box is offset to pickup the shock mount and the shock mount will tie it to the suspension mount equivalent to the righthand one.

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Just need to weld this cover in place to finally tie it all together , its slightly thicker 2mm sheet. The shock mount will go on top of this

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