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Hi Dickson,

I have done this several times. It's easier if you leave the pump base attached to the engine. A 1/4 in. drive 10mm socket with a 1/4 in drive extension can be used to access the six connecting nuts and split the pump from the base. Grind the 10mm socket height so it just fits over the nuts, and it will barely fit under a slight bulge in the engine side of the pump casting. Of course, everything else must be disconnected too. Other than removing the actual pump, the other tricky bits are removing the pump brace that attaches to the engine mount. The fuel injection piping doesn't need to be completely removed, but must be loosened from the braces, and the injectors. When reassembling, do not forget to replace all of the little pieces that brace each individual pipe (I had a pipe fracture last year at the Frederick convention Time Trials because one of the little studs holding a brace under the throttle body broke and the pipe vibrated itself to death).

Working in the injection pump is easy on my '76 Spider since I don't use a fan shroud. You may spend a lot of time removing this on your car. And, If this is your first time working on the injection, if you don't have one already go ahead and buy Wes Ingram's SPICA a manual. Highly recommended.

I've purchased for $150 what is promised to be a "good" replacement 255/1 Spica pump for my 74 Spider.

I've been told that the removal of the Spica pump requires geisha hands and a triple jointed foream...True?

Would anyone care to walk me through Spica R&R? Thanks - Dickson
 
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