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Discussion Starter #1
hi just finished putting in spica pump, had to bend and grind 13mm to fit top to bottom blots. 1976 spider runs 15 mins than starts coughing and back fireing than dies out, after and hour or so start and do same thing. all setting are right from many down load tuning threads. have new points,cond, rotor cap, wires . change plugs 3 times.they always come out black not wet. is there some place different i sould be looking. ty
 

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Here's a W.A.G.

Have you been through Wes Ingram's or RoadTrip's tuning procedure?

It may be that the cold start solenoid is sticking on.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
something else

john have both of them, jumped all soleniods, all work fine, even did roadtrips spica pump insection and check before installing . dont realy want to take pump off again.Pump timing is only 2 notches on belt off mark .also changed fuel pump and that wasnt it.filters all new.if i take pump off again iam thinging weber, but hate to have same prolem joe
 

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I'm having a very difficult time understanding your posts with all the typo mistakes and fragmented sentences. Please use complete sentences and type slower.

1. Does the fuel low pressure warning light illuminate when you first turn the key on and then go out? Does it ever come on when the engine is running?

2. I don't understand having to grind something to install the injection pump. You should NOT have to grind anything to fit a pump to the engine.

3. When the engine is at running temperature, what is the pump gap with the long rod disconnected?

Just based on the black plugs and acceptable running cold, but bad hot, I suspect a bad T/A.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
somthing else

sorry about my writing .i grinded a wench and bended it to take top two bolts off bottom of spica. TA cold is a little bit out. heated longer looks like almost one half inch out. Gap at pump 15mm .try runing with dummy TA set at 27mm then 29mm .SAME results. TY for come back joe
 

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How about the fuel pressure? Is the low pressure warning light functional?

You pump gap is far out of adjustment. The pump gap with the engine at running temp and the long rod disconnected should be .019" or less, usually less and probably zero. With it connected, the length of the rod should be adjusted to bring the pump gap to .019".

Did you bench check the TA before you put it in? What was the extension at 175F?
 

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I'm with John on this one. Most likely the TA, but I suspect other adjustments also. You need to follow the procedure, step by step, completing each one correctly, before moving on to the next. Make certain the ignition is spot on first, and use new plugs, too.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
i'll do the gap on the again tomorrow. take the TA out and put it in hot water and check extension with a ruler .tks joe
 

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Is it running smoothly for that first 15 minutes? This sounds a lot like a problem I had several years ago. I would actually carry a clean set of plugs and half way to work (15 minutes) I would swap them out. It turned out to be plugged fuel filters. If you haven't done so, replace both.

But as John says, until you verify that your fuel pressure is correct everything else is pointless. Check that light!

BTW, do you really mean the pump gap is "15mm" (not good) or ".015mm" (in spec)?
 

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You have to follow the process in order.
Each succesive adjustment relies on the one before it.
 
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