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Discussion Starter #1
69 with spica ran alright after a full engine rebuild but malfunctioned after about 2000 miles. It was then rebuilt by Wes Ingram. Since reinstalled, the engine skips on acceleration when operating temp is reached(180 degrees). Idle and starting seem unaffected and pulls well on acceleration when "cold" but starts to deteriorate as the engine temp rises. Pump and electrical timing double checked, plugs changed, new condensor and Bosch coil. Spark gap tested and was good on all four wires. New fuel filters(even though practially new) installed and new Bosch fuel pump installed less than 500 miles ago. Fuel pressure light goes off immediately and fuel flow tested out OK. TA functions normaly and the reference gap is 0.019 when hot. Has anyone had such an experience? Any ideas where the problem might be. Thanks
 

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Remove the wire to the Cold Start Solenoid and see if that makes any difference. Also with the spark plugs, is there one that seems much cleaner than the rest?? Is the engine using coolant?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Roadtrip, thanks for the reply. Not a bad idea to remove cold start solenoid wire but unlikely an issue since it was connected before FI rebuild. Also exchanged FI for another unit with no change. And, these units are checked out pretty throughly by Wes. However it is a simple thing to do and will give it a try. Plugs are all the same but maybe a little too much carbon which I attribute primarily to frequent starts and stops of the engine and no highway use while trouble shooting. Have spoken again with Giuseppi LoRe(Alfa Imports) and we are concluding that the problem must be electrical. Will change to copper wires and put on a new rotor and distributor cap. Voltage to the coil is 12.5 volts. I was pretty careful installing the wireing at the time of the rebuild to avoid ground/connection problems(all contacts wire brushed clean and silicone contact grease sparingly applied. Should have tried above by 3/2/11.
 

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Have you confirmed you're getting full advance on the distributor? Don't know why that might be temperature-related, but assuring [relatively objective] spark performance is always best first before screwing with the [relatively subjective] Spica.
Andrew
 

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Just a few thoughts if I may:
I would tend to go through your physical installation, it's possible that something got put together a bit off-kilter ?
e.g.
- does the new coil's tower fit well to the high tension lead terminal and rubber boot (I've sometimes had to spread out the "feet" on the terminal to get the copper to fit a new coil tightly. You didn't put contact grease on the coil tower terminal by chance ??)
- are the injector hard lines properly in place, fully clamped down, and all fittings tight and not leaking ?
- is the injection pump support bracketry fully in place, and the pump squarely attached ? (i.e. not ****ed on an angle somehow?)
- is the coolant fully bled out, if you changed the TA ? (low coolant level will give you strange readings on the temp gauge, perhaps you weren't setting the TA gap at the right temp ?)

In different directions:
- Is the state of tune of the motor (cams, compression, etc) the same as before the rebuild ? Was the full state of tune of the motor discussed with Wes for the pump rebuild ?
- Where does the hesitation happen ? What sort of RPM level ? What sort of throttle opening and motion ? Any pattern at all ?

For what it's worth...
Neil
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks everybody for your thoughts. All items mentioned have been checked and are functioning properly. Changed the dist. cap and rotor. Adjusted the #1 tubing to the pump section to give the cap better clearance. The spark gap has improved to a little over 1/2 inch. Reajusted the butterflies for balance and for closure at idle and readjusted the TA since the 0.019" gap had closed completely(that is in fact OK per
Wes Ingram). Was running properly for a longer time with all this but then deteriorated again: Starts skipping/missing on any thing more than light accerleration at any RPM. Found oil below the TA insert into the water manifold which appears to have come from the oil separator(Only possible source per Giuseppi LoRe at Alfa Imports who did the engine rebuild). There was some oil in the idle adjuster device from which the four small tubes go to each throttle body. As he suggested, the oil return tube to the base of the dip stick was clogged. Also found a lot of rust inside the canister(separator) as well as pin holes in the tapered lower portion of the canister. Soldered these pin holes and knocked out as much rust as possible before and after soaking in mineral sprits. Have coated the interior with a rust "reformer". I'm hoping that oil being sucked into the engine was the problem but have to wait for 24 hrs while the reformer sets up before I can reinstall the separator.
 
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