SPICA Fuel Line to Injectors

TOOOOO much pressure! >100 LBS. Plus they are equal length.

That's what I was afraid of. Thanks!

Wait a minute. Isn't that (plastic type line) what Wes uses on his racing pump set up?

http://www.wesingram.com/images/Berg2L_TWMs_billetpulleys.jpg

This image looks like he's not using a hard line... thoughts?

Why do you wish to change them? I would use steal over plastic any day. They are, but they are still all the same length, plus the injector is different, not stock at all. This pump could be regulated way more efficient and use a lesser restricted injector. You would need this entire setup to convert to the plastic lines just an assumption? It gets HOT under the hood!
I wish I knew the material of those lines in that picture.

According to the October issue of Road and Track, wherein they visited with Wes Ingram, the lines are subjected to 400 psi.

Remember, the Spica injection pump was originally an industrial engine diesel pump adapted for gasoline to meet EPA regulations of the 70s. The injection pressure is in the 350-400 psi range.

Yes, Wes Ingram uses flexible lines on Spica race engines, but for street use, they are not suitable. The 3 layer OEM metal pipes, if cared for and secured properly, are much better and will last the life of the car.

Use great care when working on those fuel pipes. They are only available now from salvage. Keep them clean, corrosion free, and secured by all the OEM clamps.

Roadtrip said:

Use great care when working on those fuel pipes. They are only available now from salvage. Keep them clean, corrosion free, and secured by all the OEM clamps.

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Speaking of which, I'm in the midst of swapping pumps after getting a rebuild from Wes. For the life of me, I can't get one of the connectors loose from the pump tower without starting to twist the pipe. I've soaked it in PB Blaster several times over the past week, but the nut will not turn around the pipe. I think I have a spare if need be, but really don't want to twist the pipe up if I can help it. Any advice before I just say to hell with it and cut it or twist it off?

Belay that last post.

Just remove the pump and pipe as a unit and spin the pipe off the pump with the nut. Then soak and work the nut loose on the bench.

Thanks all for the tips on the fuel lines! I'll have to be very careful when removing the two center fuel lines. they are stuck pretty good it seems.

PB-Blast them let sit 24 hours.

alfasrule said:

PB-Blast them let sit 24 hours.

Click to expand...

Oh, it's been well over a week here. I'd love to put a torch on it, but there's that pesky detail about fuel lines and such. I'm going to take John's advice and take the pump off pipe and all.

Wow John. That's why reshaping or flexing would be so hard on them!

John, are the layers bonded together? I'm asking because I was worried that when I was trying to turn the nut off the fuel tower and the line spun a little that I might have damaged it. Now I'm thinking that if the twisting was limited to just the outer layer, maybe it's okay. It didn't twist much.

I think you're fine. Those lines are actually pretty rugged as long as you don't kink 'em. They don't look like they're bonded, but can't say for sure. That said, we try and deform them as little as possible.

Hey all, figured Id post on this thread even though I asked a similar question on my fuel press thread.

Im looking at my hard lines before attaching them to a rebuilt pump. Blew air thru them and found only one like would pass air. I am presuming there are no check valves or such. What would a remedy be in this case? I have a smallish ultrasonic cleaner that i could get the ends in I suppose. I had this car running, rough, briefly five years ago and the lines have been in a box since then.

When they were put away for storage, were the lines drained of fuel? If not, you may have varnish blocking the pipe. I'd install the pump and lines, but leave the pipes disconnected from the fuel injectors themselves. Then prime the injection pump and run it on the starter motor (spark plugs OUT) to see if the pressure will clean them out.

I'd also advise that you call Wes and get his opinion. I'm sure he's see this before.

I have to remove the head off my 72 GTV. SPICA is new territory for me; what is the best method for removing the injector lines? Any tips, start from the pump or the block?

Thanks!