[Pat Padden]

On my 1974 GTV...just had these replaced last year...discovered that #2 is broken.

Anybody have any spares in good shape? I would buy a set of all four (plus and extra #2) if any are out there.

Here's a pic:

 

[spokeless]

APE may be your friend

Since nobody else responded, I'll offer up my favorite used Alfa parts source:

Alfa Parts Exchange - Used Alfa Romeo Parts

I am obligated to ask: were all the fuel line supports/brackets in place and properly tightened? If you can't answer, "Yes, absolutely.", you may want to check with an Alfa shop that you're not missing one of the aluminum cross-bars or the steel bracket that together typically ensure these lines stay put and intact.

I think this qualifies as a very unusual failure mode for one of these pipes, if all brackets/pieces were in place - at least in my admittedly limited, but somewhat substantial, experience.

 

[LPAlfa]

Just saw a set on ebay earlier today. Price was very reasonable.

Lawrence

 

[144]

Pat - I have one. Check you PMs.

 

[Pat Padden]

Thanks guys....can someone post a picture of all of the various brackets?

I do believe that I am missing some.

Here's what I can see:

• 
  Bracket between #1 and #2 at the TA
  Bracket between #3 and #4 just under the Throttle Bodies
  Mechanic tied #1 and #2 together with zip ties under the manifold...McGiveresque
  Nothing else...what am I missing?

 

[spokeless]

Roadtrip did the legwork..

..with some sweet pics, in 2006. I figured this came up before, and searched it out for you:

http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/car...154-spica-fuel-line-support-bracket-help.html

Note that there are 4 distinct hold down points/brackets under the throttle bodies and at the intake manifold, and a single triangular shaped steel bracket that rises up behind the SPICA unit to support all 4 steel lines as they come off the pump.

It's a little hard to see the steel bracket in the first pic because it's oriented edge-on, but in the second pic (where it's all installed), you can see the clamps that attach to the top of the bracket, just to the right of the T/A isolator, with 2 fuel lines routed/clamped rearward (visible), and two forward (hidden) of the black bracket.

You need every single piece shown in the images, including a total of 4 long and 8 short alum. bars to gently "clamp" the lines, the one steel bracket and all the accompanying studs, bolts, nuts, and washers - in place and tight - to ensure the lines stay put and don't vibrate/crack/split/shear. The FI systems on these cars more closely resemble a product engineered for an aircraft than a typical automotive application. Tie-wraps are strictly verboten.

 

[144]

It's no wonder a pipe broke. Keep in mind normal engine vibration as well as the resonance of 350-400 psi fuel pulsing through the pipe. Alfa engineers didn't use all those clamps because they wanted to spend more money. They're all important.

Don't throw away the broken pipe and it's end. Send it to me. I'll put it on my display mockup where it doesn't matter if it works or not. That'll give me another good spare.

 

[spokeless]

[..] my display mockup [..]

Oooo - now, you owe us another picture. One point extra credit if it's displayed in a room other than the garage. Two points if it's the centerpiece of your dining room table. Actually, your wife/SO gets the second one.

 

[Pat Padden]

Mike Besic Spica hook up

I stopped by Mike Besic's shop in IL today on a business trip to Chicago. Mike very graciously set me up with all of the supply lines as well as the mounting hardware for my Spica set up.

While it's not as prettly as roadtrip's "mockup", I'll clean it up then put it on the GTV.

THANKS Mike!!!

 

[Pat Padden]

Broken stud

I found all of the parts to do the replacement...then I discovered a broken manifold stud under the #2 throttle body. So...I'll need to remove the intake manifold and extract the broken stud.

I've not done this before and any words of wisdom are appreciated.

Questions:

• Do I use adhesive on the gasket?
• Or...do I use adhesive on the manifold?
• Where should I put adhesive?
• and...how thick?
  • any other advice on removing the broken stud?

Thanks for the help!

 

[144]

Late to the party here. I would not use any sealants on the gaskets. The broken stud is in a tough place. Do you have enough showing to get a bite on it, or is it a drill/extractor job?

 

[Pat Padden]

Late to the party here. I would not use any sealants on the gaskets. The broken stud is in a tough place. Do you have enough showing to get a bite on it, or is it a drill/extractor job?

John...thanks as usual. It was a drill and extract on the stud as it was broken just below the surface. I removed the intake manifold and it was relatively quick work in the shop with drill press and extractor.

I've got a few more questions:

• How come no adhesive on the gasket?
• Is 20 foot pounds OK to torque the manifold?
• The injectors had light corrosion on the outside hex surfaces...is it OK to carefully give the hex surfaces a coating of rustoleum?

On other notes...Wes is sending me some cad plated mounting hardware for the Spica lines. I cleaned and painted the metal plates from Spica to engine case. I coated the fuel lines with rustoleum galvanizing paint...the original ones rusted through...I used bolts to plug the theads before painting...it's not a show car.

 

[144]

I don't use adhesive. There's not pressure other than a slight negative, so I don't see any value in goo'in up anything. I don't have my shop manual here in NY, so I don't know what the torque value is for the intake nuts, but I just snug 'em up tight with a ratchet, then recheck them later. You certainly don't want to put the wrath of God on those relatively small studs.

On the injectors, I just wire-brushed the corrosion off, if there's any, and maybe a little light oil on them to prevent any rust. I live in a very dry climate so rust usually isn't a problem. I don't think a light coat of clear would hurt anything as long as you didn't get it inside the injector.

Make sure you get all the pipe mounts in-place and snug (again, don't smash 'em).

 

[gigem75]

It's rare unfortunatly to find a used spica Alfa with all the supports in place simply because it's a pita to put them back on but they are as shown absoultly necessary. From the look of your photo the ear on the pump is missing the big plate that help clamp all four lines together but that's old news by now.

 

[Pat Padden]

Spinning nut on manifold stud

I came close to finishing up the reinstall...then I had a misshap. The nut on the stud next to the thermastat snugged up to about 15 ft lbs then started to spin on the stud. The threads are stripped either on the nut or on the stud...no way to tell for sure.

I could use some advice...should I:

1. Put another nut on top of the stripped nut (there is just enough thread to do this), torque to 15 ft lbs. and drive on my merry way
2. Cut the nut off - very hard to reach as it's under the thermastat - and hope to not damage the stud
3. Cut the entire stud off, pull the manifold, replace the stud and reinstall manifold and fuel lines

 

[144]

Can you put some back pressure on the nut with a screwdriver or small fork-like tool while you slowly turn to remove it? Maybe you can get it to engage some good threads on the stud, or if it's the nut that stripped, give it some help to back off. I'd try and get it off to see what's going on there. Doesn't look like you have enough room to put a nut breaker on there.

Do you have enough thread available to double-nut it and try and remove the whole stud?

 

[Pat Padden]

Can you put some back pressure on the nut with a screwdriver or small fork-like tool while you slowly turn to remove it? Maybe you can get it to engage some good threads on the stud, or if it's the nut that stripped, give it some help to back off. I'd try and get it off to see what's going on there. Doesn't look like you have enough room to put a nut breaker on there.

Do you have enough thread available to double-nut it and try and remove the whole stud?

No room for back pressure...it's tight up against the manifold...not enough room to double nut...I'm going to just put another nut on top of this one and deal with the issue the next time I need to break the engine down...which hopefully will be a long time from now.

I'll let you know how it goes...

 

[Scuderiazane]

How is it going? Any luck finishing the job?

 

[Pat Padden]

Yep...I did get the job finished...except for replacing the stripped manifold bolt, and dialing in the CSS.

Putting all of the clamps on was pretty tedious work however they did finally all get put on and tightened. I did all of the Spica adjustments, did the distributor timing and fuel/air mix by ear and feel. The car does seem to run well...good power with no pinging.

The only part that I'm not able to dial in is the cold start solenoid. I get the audible click when I energize the CSS, but I am not able to get the RPMs to go down at idle when energized, no matter how far in I turn the CSS. Any ideas here?

 

[Scuderiazane]

I'm VERY new to the Spica world. Just got my bastard child 1981 Spider a month ago. There is an interesting thread if you search:

"77 SPICA Spider running way too rich" (I havent learned how to link yet)

Anyway I think it touches on some of the issues you are having.