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Discussion Starter #101 (Edited)
PM me an email address and I'll send you some technical material that describes the operation and adjustment. Before you start messing with the injection system, know what you're doing and why. Tinkering usually just makes things worse.

170 psi sounds good for compression.

Time the engine to spec. Detonation can quickly damage an engine with hemispheric cylinders.

Post future questions in a separate thread in the Injection and Carb Topic Section. This thread was meant to just have the "sticky" post.
 

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Discussion Starter #103 (Edited)
The initial cold start is adjusted by turning the Cold Start Solenoid. However, that only provides an initial rich mixture while cranking the engine. The typical setting for the CSS is 1/4" from the top of the casting to the bottom of the CSS "can."

The warm-up richness is relatively non-adjustable. It's actually set by a combination of the running mixture setting and the Thermostatic Actuator (T/A). Often times the T/A is bad and does not lean out the mixture as the coolant warms to 175F.

Warm the engine up to operating temperature and look at the throttle arm on the rear of the injection pump. The gap between it and the "stop" (reference screw) should be .019" or less. Do not under any circumstances move the reference screw. That is factory calibrated and is NOT to be moved. If the gap is wider than .019", then either the T/A is out of adjustment, or the T/A is leaking and not leaning to a normal mixture by 175F coolant temp. Go out for a hard run in the car. When you get back, check the color of the spark plugs for an overrich mixture.

Spitting out soot isn't unusual, even in properly tuned engines.
 

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boggissimo,

You are correct. And, as unleaded fuel has diminished lubricating properties compared to leaded fuel, Roadtrip recomends adding Marvel Mystery Oil to the fuel to enhace the lubrication of both the main fuel pump and FI pump. I do this with every fill-up.
Hello Boggissomo,
Just for reference what dilution of Mystery oil to fuel do use and doesn't it foul your plugs?
Thanks,
Pood
 

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PM me an email address and I'll send you some technical material that describes the operation and adjustment. Before you start messing with the injection system, know what you're doing and why. Tinkering usually just makes things worse.

170 psi sounds good for compression.

Time the engine to spec. Detonation can quickly damage an engine with hemispheric cylinders.

Post future questions in a separate thread in the Injection and Carb Topic Section. This thread was meant to just have the "sticky" post.
Thanks, much appreciated. My address is [email protected]:mad:
 

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I am working on a 74 w / a spica. I am trying to adjust the mixture but the castle nut is frozen. Does anyone know where i can obtain a socket or wrench to turn it?
 

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I made a tool from a 2 inch, U shape, clamp I bought at the hardware store.
Just grind the threaded ends flat to fit the slots in the nut and then bend the ends of the clap together in a vise so it just fits the nut.
It work beautifully.
 

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thanks Guys! Gene is right, Wes Ingram has a tool for sale now, which I picked up. Its pricey, at 45.00 plus shipping, but at least its the right tool.
 

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boggissimo,

You are correct. And, as unleaded fuel has diminished lubricating properties compared to leaded fuel, Roadtrip recomends adding Marvel Mystery Oil to the fuel to enhace the lubrication of both the main fuel pump and FI pump. I do this with every fill-up.
How much do you add?

ncng

(Old 2003 post, so update?)
 

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Discussion Starter #112
Per directions on the bottle . . . . 4 oz per 10 gallons gasoline. There are convenient markings on the side of the bottle.
 

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I've thought about the idle air system and given the crudity of the adjustment, I'm wondering if just deleting the o-ring all togther, then substituting a valve or restrictor in the hose from the airbox to the idle air distributor would be better . . . . . something as simple as piece of round spacer with the hole drilled to the size necessary to supply the required air and inserted into the hose.

The squishable o-ring idea is not Alfa's finest engineering design. I think "Billy-Bob" must have gotten loose in the Alfa engineering offices that day.
RoadTrip,

Thank you for all your help, did you every try this, the idle air valve?, I am struggling for air on start up @ 2500 ft elev. It did help a bit tonight, as I removed air cleaner and sprayed carb cleaner into all four air intakes, tomorrow I will add Mystery Oil to the fuel, it worked awesome in a Ford Explorer
I used to drive! :)

Thanks,

ncng
 

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Discussion Starter #115
No I never have. Even at 4000 feet pressure altitude I don't have a start problem. The most restriction is in the little ports into each intake bore anyway. Try taking the hoses off each port and see what that does. My guess is . . . .nothing.

RoadTrip,

Thank you for all your help, did you every try this, the idle air valve?, I am struggling for air on start up @ 2500 ft elev. It did help a bit tonight, as I removed air cleaner and sprayed carb cleaner into all four air intakes, tomorrow I will add Mystery Oil to the fuel, it worked awesome in a Ford Explorer
I used to drive! :)

Thanks,

ncng
 

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No I never have. Even at 4000 feet pressure altitude I don't have a start problem. The most restriction is in the little ports into each intake bore anyway. Try taking the hoses off each port and see what that does. My guess is . . . .nothing.
My engine did start from cold well, even at 8200 feet pressure altitude.

I do think as well that the influence of the idle air screw is really minor.
As soon as the engine and the throttle throads are set to the right settings, the idle air screw will allow slight changes, but only slight. And that will not solve any starting problems at all.

Salutations


Bernhard
 

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No I never have. Even at 4000 feet pressure altitude I don't have a start problem. The most restriction is in the little ports into each intake bore anyway. Try taking the hoses off each port and see what that does. My guess is . . . .nothing.
Thank you Roadtrip,

Great idea, I will see,

ncng
 

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John was right again!!!

Here is a reminder to all Alfisti as well as a cautionary tale TO 'DRIVE YOUR CARS'!!!
I purchased a 73 GTV with SPICA. Almost immediatly after getting it home it spopped running for all intense and purposes. The PO had not used the car very often and stored it in a storage unit "off and on" for 6-7 years. While the car was taken care of it was not driven often nor stored properly during that time. As i began to drive it the SPICA pump deteriorated to the point of death (not even rebuildable). I'm sure part of it was shear age but the metal internal parts spoke of a mistreated pump.
I dont mention all this to throw the PO under the bus as he is a fine gentleman but as a reminder to take care of this wonderful piece of engineering! I have a replacement one and it is truly a beautiful device for driving.
Listen to John and take car of them and test them before you make a purchase.
 
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