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Discussion Starter #1
This weekend has been one for the Montreal so far. On several occasions I stopped working in the garage to look things up in “Alfa Romeo, MONTREAL the Essential Companion” (M-tEC) and have not been disappointed.

The two books must have been a ‘labor of love’ and have surely benefitted Montreal owner’s world wide. I tried to send Mr. Taylor a personal thank-you note but I don’t believe he ever received it. Does he ever post anything on the ABB (or is he lurking in the background)? I hope he and Jennifer are out travelling the world and enjoying their Montreal; living the ‘high-life’ on royalties from the sales of his books but I suspect that is not the case. Either way, I wish them well.

Thanks Bruce “Montrealmighty” Taylor,

Mark
 

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Mark,

About 18 months ago I exchanged a few emails with Bruce toward the possibility of meeting him last summer when my grandson and I would be touristing in Europe. We hoped to meet in late June, but just before our trip he let me know that his health was failing and he would not be available. I ended up meeting a very nice fellow who, I believe, bought Bruce's car.

I've heard no more since then, but Bruce's last note sounded resigned to further declines.
 

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I exchanged emails with Bruce when I sold my Monti last May (2014) and also received an update from him in June by email to all (old) forum members about the website ending with "Happy summer motoring to all!"
Alive and kicking I would say :thumbup:
 

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Mark, I totally second your comments on Bruce! If it was not for his book I would have not had the guts to take on my Montreal restoration!
 

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My visit to Switzerland was in June - July 2014. I got the impression he was receiving chemo treatment at the time, so not sure how it's gone since. Fingers crossed.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
This was a great weekend for working on the Montreal. The first thing attempted was to replace a broken zerk on the driveshaft sliding yoke now greased and good for another 7,460 miles! The remains of the old zerk came out easily with an E-Z out thread extractor and it was not even necessary to drill a pilot hole since the zerk was hollow. Hopefully this will eliminate the first gear thump, thump, thump, when starting off. It was also noticed that alignment marks on the front set of yokes were 180 degrees out, so it may be necessary to unbolt the four bolts, turn one shaft 180 degrees and bolt it back together. Further testing will determine if the grease was helpful of not. While in the area, both U-joints were greased through their zerk’s as well.

It is just barely possible to replace the speedometer sending unit without pulling the engine and transmission! Acknowledging two previous failed attempts to replace the broken speedometer sending unit, we were finally victorious on the third attempt! After removing the exhaust mounting brackets to lower the exhaust, which was supported on a cooler and removing the drive shaft bearing support and the transmission mounting bracket and a driveshaft retainer bracket, the transmission was dropped about 1 ½ inches. Using a large screwdriver as a lever to pry on the transmission mounting bracket, through its slotted holes, against where it mounts on the underbody of the car; it was just possible to pull and gently remove the old and then insert the replacement sending unit. It was noticed that on the right side of the transmission, opposite the sending unit with such tight tolerances, there must have been five inches of clearance between it and the tunnel wall.

While the exhaust system was hanging down the center clamps were removed and the ½” misalignment of the exhaust tips was corrected! The right and left exhaust pipes were made slightly differently, resulting in the “factory misalignment”.

The red CAVIS sparkplug wires were all removed and cleaned with ‘Simple Green.’ The copper ends were badly oxidized, so each one was polished with some worn 400 grit ‘wet or dry’ paper and then coated with Vaseline, to prevent further oxidation. The sparkplugs (NGK BPR6ES’) look like they need to be changed due to some heavy soot that perhaps an ‘Italian tune-up’ will cure. The distributor cap was removed and each lug was cleaned inside and out. The points were gently polished with the 400 grit paper and everything was put back together.

The BOSCH electric fuel pump is currently partially removed from the car, which is up on jack stands. Would anyone know of a good fuel pressure relief valve to use? The over pressure return fuel line is ready to attach to the top of the new fuel level sending unit. It seems like the relief valve needs to open at about 30 psi. I’d love to order Giorgio’s nice kit but really only need the pressure relief valve.

My prayers are with Bruce and Jennifer for good health, strength and a speedy recovery.
Mark
 

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Driveshaft thumping results from suboptimally aligned end yokes or a shot rubber bearing support. The latter is easy to inspect. The former situation usually results from the transmission sitting at a suboptimal height or angle. If a new mount was installed try shimming it down to get it closer to a worn mount's height. There is a picture of this in the Taylor book. Or just loosen the mount to let the tranny naturally realign itself as you roll the car back and forth. After replacing my mount it thumps in reverse.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Thanks Hans, the giubo looks like new but I can’t tell by looking at the center bearing support. I suspect that since the grease zerk on the sliding ‘yoke was broke’ it probably had not received any attention in a while.
sliding yoke broke.jpg

Zerk EZ out.jpg

It seems that I always tighten everything up before putting the car back on the ground as a matter of habit; since it is still 'levitating' (on stands) I could force myself to loosen the transmission mount and center bearing support before lowering the car. It must be a tight squeeze to get under the car, while it is on the ground to tighten things back up. A pit would be helpful; perhaps I could borrow Ward’s lift for a few minutes! Or should I jack the car back up after rolling back and forth? (notice the transmission mount is dropped in photo)
Trans drop.jpg



I know that the driveshaft yokes are not aligned properly but it is possible (maybe not probable) that the shaft has been balanced as is.

Right yoke.jpg

Left yoke on me.jpg

If too many changes are made at once, it will not be possible to know if some changes improved things (like grease) or others made matters worse (like tightening up center bearing support & trans mount), if thumping stays the same, then I’ll see if reversing the yokes is necessary. If so, you could say “the yokes on me” (sorry:).

I thought that I had Taylor’s book (M-tEC) memorized but don’t recall the part about shimming down the bearing mount. I’ll check next time I can look it up. I can see that the bearing holds the driveshaft 'up' in the middle some.

Thanks Mark
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The BOSCH electric fuel pump is currently partially removed from the car, which is up on jack stands. Would anyone know of a good fuel pressure relief valve to use? The over pressure return fuel line is ready to attach to the top of the new fuel level sending unit. It seems like the relief valve needs to open at about 30 psi. I’d love to order Giorgio’s nice kit but really only need the pressure relief valve.
Any help appreciated!
Mark
 

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I have two L-jet type pumps I plan to install soon, and took a little while to ID some regulators at the nearby Summit Racing. The two that appear best suited to the job are these.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/aei-13301

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/maa-4307m

Both are adjustable within the range needed for the Monty Spica, and can be plumbed for bypass operation. Thus, my general plan is to feed through one of these regulators with the outlet from the bypass going back to where the original fuel pumps' 3rd port went, and confirm that the calibrated orifice in the Spica return line gives me the intended pressure at the Spica.

I have not used either of these regulators, but I'm betting either will do the job. I will plumb in a pressure gauge at the front to set up the system, the remove the gauge when it's all dialed in.
 

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Try to avoid re-jacking after loosening mounts. Instead try to roll front onto wooden boards to gain clearance. Or drive slowly onto inclined surface. Taylor book just shows picture of shimmed mount on a race car. Your trans mount looks different from mine; perhaps check it against vendor part photos.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
I have two L-jet type pumps I plan to install soon, and took a little while to ID some regulators at the nearby Summit Racing. The two that appear best suited to the job are these.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/aei-13301

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/maa-4307m

Both are adjustable within the range needed for the Monty Spica, and can be plumbed for bypass operation. Thus, my general plan is to feed through one of these regulators with the outlet from the bypass going back to where the original fuel pumps' 3rd port went, and confirm that the calibrated orifice in the Spica return line gives me the intended pressure at the Spica.

I have not used either of these regulators, but I'm betting either will do the job. I will plumb in a pressure gauge at the front to set up the system, the remove the gauge when it's all dialed in.
Yes I suspect that either regulator would work although the first one with the 'high pressure spring' (to 30 PSI) may be a better option. The second regulator may be on the low side at the high end (24 PSI). I like the looks of the in line pressure relief valve that Giorgio uses in his kit (stainless tube on left side):


fuel pump by Giorgio.jpg

OBTW, about 4-6 weeks after getting a copy of 'M-tEC' by Mr. Taylor, a Montreal followed me home!
Mark
 

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Discussion Starter #13
The Blue Montreal and I went on a 'sunset cruise' tonight. It seems like greasing the driveshaft sliding yoke really made the car ride much smoother; I noticed it when shifting into second gear for the first time. I thought that the Pirelli tires were just not smooth or round but they really are!

The next thing I noticed was that the speedometer was working! It really does not help much though having a metric dial face but it was good to see the pointer moving and know the time under the car was not wasted.

I had left the valve for the headlights closed or in the manual position because I like driving around with the corner marker lights on but don't care for the eyelids to go down, at least in the daytime. After it got dark I realized that the headlights don't work too well with the 'eyelids' up. I was driving with the headlights on high, with the eyelids up and it did not bother anyone. Eventually, I stopped, popped the hood and set the eyelid valve to the automatic position.

Mark
 
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