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Discussion Starter #1
Hi All,

Reposting this here as the part is shared between the GTV6 and the Milano/75.

I'm slowly putting my GTV6 back together and I've come to realize I'm missing the spacers that go between the transaxle/DiDion crossmember and the body. Is anyone able to measure theirs so that I could make a replacement? Or, perhaps, does anyone have a spare set they'd part with?

Thanks,
-Dave
 

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Hi All,

Reposting this here as the part is shared between the GTV6 and the Milano/75.

I'm slowly putting my GTV6 back together and I've come to realize I'm missing the spacers that go between the transaxle/DiDion crossmember and the body. Is anyone able to measure theirs so that I could make a replacement? Or, perhaps, does anyone have a spare set they'd part with?

Thanks,
-Dave
The spacer from my 83 GTV6 measures 10mm. Since I have the potential for needing to drop the trans at the race track I tack welded mine in place so I can't misplace them.
 

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Richard Jemison
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The spacers are different thicknesses on Alfetta, GTV6 & Milanos.

Removing the shims raises the pivot point reducing the "active" influence on the rear suspension geometry.
On a race car that results in a more stable car under braking and trail braking.
However the bolts are too long and short threaded so the spacers need to be placed under the cross member or shorted bolts used.

This was covered several years back....
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The spacer from my 83 GTV6 measures 10mm. Since I have the potential for needing to drop the trans at the race track I tack welded mine in place so I can't misplace them.
Fantastic! Thank you!! Are the ones above the forward bolt holes the same thickness as well?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The spacers are different thicknesses on Alfetta, GTV6 & Milanos.

Removing the shims raises the pivot point reducing the "active" influence on the rear suspension geometry.
On a race car that results in a more stable car under braking and trail braking.
However the bolts are too long and short threaded so the spacers need to be placed under the cross member or shorted bolts used.

This was covered several years back....
Thanks, Richard! Good to know they're different between the GTV6 and the Milano. That raises another question though: my GTV6 is an '86 with the later floor pan, more like a Milano's - do I need the same spacers as the earlier GTV6 s or ones like a Milano?

Also, is there any detriment on a road car to not using the spacers? I would imagine something would have to be done at the front end of the car to compensate so that the drive shaft is aligned, but I'm just guessing.
 

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Use same thickness spacers on all 6 bolts between crossmember and body.

If you have late style transaxle mounts with the additional plate, you need the Milano type (thickest) spacers regardless of year GTV6.

Removing the spacers puts the rear flex disc/ Giubo that much closer in to the ceiling of the propeller shaft tunnel and it can contact the body during high acceleration events. I tried this "mod" on a couple of street cars for a while and only found additional stress cracks in the donut from increased flex, and Giubo to propshaft tunnel contact which actually broke a brand new Giubo steel cage. I went back to stock. This was with new transaxle mounts and a properly adjusted "snubber." Adjusting the snubber to contact the nose of the clutch housing at all times increases vibration transmission noticeably. I went back to stock on the street cars.
Original bolts are tapered at the end to allow easier installation. Buying shorter bolts, and tapering the ends on a lathe is the way I did this on the race car which has SOLID mounts and no transaxle rise/dive to speak of, but the flex discs seem to be less aligned based on a measurement.

If you want to play with spacing, buying some washers and stacking/taping them together is a simple and effective way to do it. I've also used chassis shims shaped like horseshoes to allow adjustment without removing the bolts completely.

Good luck. Your mileage may vary.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Use same thickness spacers on all 6 bolts between crossmember and body.

If you have late style transaxle mounts with the additional plate, you need the Milano type (thickest) spacers regardless of year GTV6.

Removing the spacers puts the rear flex disc/ Giubo that much closer in to the ceiling of the propeller shaft tunnel and it can contact the body during high acceleration events. I tried this "mod" on a couple of street cars for a while and only found additional stress cracks in the donut from increased flex, and Giubo to propshaft tunnel contact which actually broke a brand new Giubo steel cage. I went back to stock. This was with new transaxle mounts and a properly adjusted "snubber." Adjusting the snubber to contact the nose of the clutch housing at all times increases vibration transmission noticeably. I went back to stock on the street cars.
Original bolts are tapered at the end to allow easier installation. Buying shorter bolts, and tapering the ends on a lathe is the way I did this on the race car which has SOLID mounts and no transaxle rise/dive to speak of, but the flex discs seem to be less aligned based on a measurement.

If you want to play with spacing, buying some washers and stacking/taping them together is a simple and effective way to do it. I've also used chassis shims shaped like horseshoes to allow adjustment without removing the bolts completely.

Good luck. Your mileage may vary.
Thanks for all the info! Really appreciate it! I removed the plate from the new transaxle mounts, so I should be good to use the same thickness as earlier GTV6s, right?
 

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GTV6 de-Dion uses spacers that are 5mm shorter than the Milano / 75 – but the single plate front transaxle mounts are 5mm less tall. The Transaxle position is the same.

The de-Dion cross member to chassis mounting also uses 2 different mounting holes on GTV6's and Milanos. Both sets of holes are in the cross member but the bolts install into alternate holes in each chassis.

Greg
 
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