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Discussion Starter #1
What are you using for sound deadening?
Is Dynamat still the material of choice?
 

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I hate working with dynamat, but it fits the look and feel of what I find in the car.
 

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Dynamat seems to be the best at sticking and conforming. It's heavy so you might want to opt for the lightweight variety. It's overkill on a 105 because the wind noise trumps everything but it will definitely will feel more solid.
 

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I'm not a big fan of dynamat for weight reasons. In my rally TI I used spray on sound marine deadening after removing all factory sound deadening.

There is an automotive version of that now as well.

See here: Silent Running

Works really well and makes the car very comfortable to use. Can be painted over in body color.
 

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I recommend the products from Second Skin Automotive Sound Insulation.

Their performance is as specified and better than factory Easy to install. The tech support is superb.

The combined weight of the factory installed insulation, both the vibration dampening and the acoustic barrier material is 29 lbs. Cover the inside of a GTV (105) with their vibration dampener and acoustic barrier and you add circa 3 pounds to the body's weight (total weights 32 lbs.)
 

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One other option that I believe used to be sold by numerous of the usual Alfa parts suppliers in the past (and that I am pretty sure is what I purchased and used on my car) is....

https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/all-3m-products/~/3M-Sound-Deadening-Pad/?N=5002385+3293193969&rt=rud

This material is adhered directly to the floor panels, then additional sound deadener is added on top of this (at least that seemed to me to be the closest to the factory combination) and what I ended up doing.

View attachment 1547214
 

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I used viscoelastic polymer paint to sound proof my 1999 Miata that sounded like a tin can before, and like a BMW after. I built 6 layers of paint that dries like a hard rubber. The gallon I used when dry wouldn't add more than 10 pounds and the results are quite dramatic. The only negative is it's a time consuming project, but we are not in a hurry here when it comes to restoring a vintage Alfa :)

With my Super I have not done any sound proofing as I would like it to be as raw as possible for those special drives when the weather is good.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for the suggestions and especially alternatives to Dynamat.
Actually, I was a little surprised to find some kind of sound deadening on the floor panels when working on the Berlina today. For the most part, it tightly adhereing to the floor panels and inner firewall. I had to heat some areas up and scrapebit off as I have a few holes to repair.
I haven't looked at the door panels yet, but will be adding sound deadening to rear seat area and trunk. Probably wheel wells need it also.
 

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I use this stuff on my roof to seal mod-but roofing seams. It looks to me to be very like Dynamat only it sells for a whole lot less. If it will successfully stick to roofing material and survive the elements, I'd suspect that it would work well as sound deadening in an Alfa. Full disclosure: when I mentioned this to some of my Alfa buddies I was shouted into silence. The big bullies insisted that Dynamat had to be better because . . . well, it's Dynamat, it costs more and the company says it's designed for cars. Yeah right. Your experience may differ . . .

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Peel-Seal-Instant-Waterproof-Repairs-6-in-x-25-ft-Aluminum-Roll-Flashing/1018733
 

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Thanks for the suggestions and especially alternatives to Dynamat.
Actually, I was a little surprised to find some kind of sound deadening on the floor panels when working on the Berlina today. For the most part, it tightly adhereing to the floor panels and inner firewall. I had to heat some areas up and scrapebit off as I have a few holes to repair.
I haven't looked at the door panels yet, but will be adding sound deadening to rear seat area and trunk. Probably wheel wells need it also.
Some dry ice in a plastic shopping bag (if you have any left) left on the floor insulation makes it really easy to chip off with a paint scraper. No mess or solvent fumes, leaves the primer in place too
 

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I have actually tested a few forms of Bituthene that I use regularly for housing on my project Alfa and none have done very well. Problem is, they don't maintain adhesion with temperature extremes. There was one of the home application companies that branched into auto sound deadening and abruptly left the market. So while it seems like a great idea and the savings is attractive, I wouldn't gamble unless you are prepared to remove interior stuff. When it's all said and done, the dynamat will be a fraction of the complete restoration.
I use this stuff on my roof to seal mod-but roofing seams. It looks to me to be very like Dynamat only it sells for a whole lot less. If it will successfully stick to roofing material and survive the elements, I'd suspect that it would work well as sound deadening in an Alfa. Full disclosure: when I mentioned this to some of my Alfa buddies I was shouted into silence. The big bullies insisted that Dynamat had to be better because . . . well, it's Dynamat, it costs more and the company says it's designed for cars. Yeah right. Your experience may differ . . .

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Peel-Seal-Instant-Waterproof-Repairs-6-in-x-25-ft-Aluminum-Roll-Flashing/1018733
 

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I have actually tested a few forms of Bituthene that I use regularly for housing on my project Alfa and none have done very well. Problem is, they don't maintain adhesion with temperature extremes.
I experienced a similar problem, although I was working on a roof rather than an Alfa. I discovered that there are different grades of the "seam-tape". Some are only intended for use underneath more impervious roofing and siding materials. These usually caution that they are not to be left uncovered or they will delaminate, lose adhesiveness, etc. The Peel and Seal product (there are a couple of others) has a lifetime guarantee and, the company claims, can be exposed to elements indefinitely. What's frustrating about these products is that you really have to investigate to find out this kind of information. Sometimes, it's only published on the companies website and not on the product at all. The pro roofers I've talked to suggest that the tape be used with a compatible primer which may encourage adhesion. I haven't tried it long-term but I can say it's definitely sticky stuff and, once applied, is the very devil to remove.
 

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....Actually, I was a little surprised to find some kind of sound deadening on the floor panels when working on the Berlina today. For the most part, it tightly adhereing to the floor panels and inner firewall. I had to heat some areas up and scrapebit off as I have a few holes to repair...

Don't forget....the OE material contains asbestos as well....Bitumen rubber & asbestos!.....wear a well sealed mask...not those little paper filters that are no better than a handkerchieh. As for removal.....I did mine during the winter months (didn't heat the garage at the time) and when exposed to below freezing temps....this material was very brittle and I was easily able to remove almost all of it with a chiseling action but using thick strong paint scraper (in place of a chisel).
 

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I have actually tested a few forms of Bituthene that I use regularly for housing on my project Alfa and none have done very well. Problem is, they don't maintain adhesion with temperature extremes. There was one of the home application companies that branched into auto sound deadening and abruptly left the market. So while it seems like a great idea and the savings is attractive, I wouldn't gamble unless you are prepared to remove interior stuff. When it's all said and done, the dynamat will be a fraction of the complete restoration.
Hence the reason to go with a product specifically formulated for automotive use....such as that 3M product.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
I started thinking about removing all the old sound deadening material, then I asked myself ... Why? Most of it is well adhered. Maybe apply some of the spray on material on areas that have nothing and replace thick insulation material on the floor, tunnel, firewall.
 

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I started thinking about removing all the old sound deadening material, then I asked myself ... Why? Most of it is well adhered. Maybe apply some of the spray on material on areas that have nothing and replace thick had on the floor, tunnel, firewall.
Absolutely....only if you need to do repairs. In my case...the floor panels were replaced...but the rear seat panel was untouched. The OE material must have been applied when it was heated to a pretty high temperature....to the point of it being very pliable and is very well bonded to the sheet metal....in now way can we replicate that to the same level with the aftermarket products IMO.
 

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Richard, that was my choice. I see no reason to remove the stock sound deadening material if it is still properly adhering to the metal. I left it in place and used additional materials.

One area, that I've found needed attention on several cars, is the spare tire well. It can resonate like a drum. Also, augment the sound deadening on the interior of the wheel wells.

I'm in the middle of insulating for heat/sound on my car. But, I'm using products that no one likes. I've just had good experience with them in the past. My personal motto "I'm slow but I sure am cheap", keeps me from shelling out for the name brand products. I've used LizardSkin spray on and the name brands, but have not experienced a marked improvement from my less expensive methods. Perhaps my hearing is not sensitive enough. 20+ years of drumming can do that to a guy.

Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I can't blame my hearing loss on the drum beat, but it's still there. I think some of is hereditary.
I'm interested in what your using on the wheel wells, and thanks for the tip on the spare tire well. I wouldn't have thought of that.
 

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Ive used a generic dyna mat and recently bought some spray on deadener, which I completely forgot before installing the door panels
on the mat, remember you don't have to cover the whole area for noise, just a section will dampen it
those pics on shows of it covering the entire floor is to sell product (n I guess it looks better, but still)
I put patches under the seats of half a sheet
I'll prob add some on the firewall before installing the dash back in as well
Need to try the spray on stuff jsut to see what its like
May decide to shoot that on inside the doors and parts of the trunk, we'll see
 

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For sound, my method is to tap on the panel and see if it resonates. If it does, place a piece of sound deadening. The only reason to cover every surface is if you want it quiet as a tomb.
 
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