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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all, I remove my Burman box for overhauling it, but i found some problems. The worm gear is pitted. I tried to contact some local machine shop and also some gear builder to remove the pitted corrosion, but everyone answer me that they don't do this kind of work. Also for the rocker arm. I would have liked to hard re-chromed but no one made this type of work. Seems that here in Rome there aren't a good machine shop :rolleyes:. So, in your opinion, can i install the part like i foun it ? I attached some photos. Another question. My box seem to have only one small crack. Only one welder make this work and he asked me 250 Euro for the welding and for boring the hole.In my opinion is too much for a weld, or not?
I attached photos of the cracked box. It is dangerus to re-use the same box with the crack ? It is really small. Thanks in advice.
 

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I have a box with a similar crack; I had reassembled it temporarily but last year I bought and installed a new box casting. AFRA has them for I think 500 Euros; do not spend on welding as the rest of the box has fatigue and is likely to crack elsewhere.

Now what I did - take out the steering box twice - only makes sense because my car is a US spec GTV with the jointed column. I can take the box out and fit it back in an hour.

For the pitted race, it is not so bad that it will harm the feeling but it will get worse, fatigue again. You can try to find a better shaft, beware as there are length variations over the years. Hard plating or metallising will flake off under the direct contact pressure of the ball bearings.

Some people have machined the end to use a self contained bearing, it is in some of the other threads.
 

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Some people have machined the end to use a self contained bearing, it is in some of the other threads.
If you do the research ( machine shops hardly ever wander into "research mode". They do what they know from past experience and knowledge that works and equipment capabilities on hand. .. If it is outside their scope of experience and equipment , the common answer is ... "I've heard of THAT but WE have never done it." ) I would recommend machining the shaft to replace the bearing surface with a press fit bearing that press fits on the shaft and the case of the box. It shouldn't be too hard to do.. Or you can look at Loctite (Henkel) and ask their tech dept for solutions. You will need exploded diagrams of the box to open any discussion. with them or the shop that refits a bearing..
As with most mechanical solutions outside the manuals, it is 98% research and 2% performing the task.
 

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Everyone I've heard from on here who tried to weld one of these boxes has reported issues due to the composition of the aluminum originally used. No personal experience, but just a warning from previous posts I've seen.

I ended up buying the Alfaholics billet box ($1000) and a spare box from APE ($300) and piecing together the best parts out of that one and mine. I'm not gonna say everything I used was perfect but the end result is working quite well and has minimal play. I suspect these parts are just seeing low enough speeds that a little pitting can be lived with for a very long time.
 

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I welded mine and it didnt end well so thats into the waste bin. I would buy an Alfaholics billet case like I have. Modify the worm to take a taper roller bearing on the nose - basic machining and search threads on here.
 

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I welded mine and it didnt end well so thats into the waste bin. I would buy an Alfaholics billet case like I have. Modify the worm to take a taper roller bearing on the nose - basic machining and search threads on here.
The hair cracks at the bolt boss aren't a big deal ..are they? I always thought there was more severity involving the body cracks that puked oil...A new billet unit won't fix the galled bearing race.. Just my opinion,, I know absolutely nothing about the trials and tribulations of these other than they crack and are no good when they do. I've always said it was from fat tires that stressed them since those tire seem ubiquitous and Burman never had them in mind. I have a feeling Alfholics was forced to come up with a solution since they are so involved with racing on fat tires. Just my take.U.
 

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Yes they are a big deal because the load will transfer to the opposite side and crack the main body then ultimately catastrophically fail. Not sure what you mean the body wont fix the race , no one is suggesting it will. The galling is easily fixed by conversion to a timken taper roller. Also it can be reprofiled with a die grinder but I wouldnt myself as it will more than likely go through any hardening and doesnt get away from the fact the lower is overloaded as it too small.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thank you all for the suggestions. I think i'll buy a new case from Victor Parts. Afra seems to had only the umbralla type handbrake, and the Victor Box seems better build to me. Anyone had experience with victor box?
 

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We bought two boxes from Victor Parts last year, as it wasn't clear that AFRA included the bushing, and shipping was from Victor a lot less for us, for no reason.

I had two issues assembling the box. First the Burman design is British and all its dimensions and threads are inches. The box supplied by Victor is machined to receive a standard metric bushing they supply. The inside diameter has to be resized to fit the shaft which involves a machinist. I would think all the boxes available would need that.

Second, on mine one of the holes for the top cover was off by a few thousands. It was one of the straight holes, not the theaded ones, and the bolt would not slide in place. I secured the cover with the other three bolts and used it as a guide to run a 5/16 drill in the other hole. The friend who got the second box did not have this problem I believe.

If you can get the box from AFRA for less, the block for the handbrake cable can be easily cut off.
 
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