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Discussion Starter #21
Well, well. So I was all excited to receive a package yesterday containing my leather steering wheel (stock Alfa style). So not only is the existing wheel a pain to get off, but when it finally came off the woodruff key shot out nearly hitting me in the head. Then to top that off, the wheel (like I said a non-airbag S4 wheel) of course is the SPLINED version and doesn't work on this car. Frickin' Alfa....sheeesh. haha.

Oh well. Live and learn. On the flip side the leather wheel is in nearly mint condition--it is great.

I'm thinking about drilling out the hub from the old wheel and putting it on the new wheel. Looks like 4 rivets holding it together.
 

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Isn't that what the hub adapter is for? Most of the time steering wheels are offered with the info that you need to also buy the adaptor with it. Extra $70 or so, IIRC.
 

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Double-de-clutching will solve your 2nd gear down change issue ...
Pete
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Isn't that what the hub adapter is for? Most of the time steering wheels are offered with the info that you need to also buy the adaptor with it. Extra $70 or so, IIRC.
Only for aftermarket wheels. This is a factory Alfa wheel.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
So....leather steering wheel install was successful. You can install the new wheel (with the spline hub) by removing the wheel from the hub itself and re-installing it on the woodruff key type hub.

1. Remove horn and plastic horn ring (4 phillips screws). Unclip horn wire.
2. Remove wheel from the car using a 28mm socket. Make sure to keep track of the woodruff key that will inevitably fly out somewhere when you forcibly pull off the steering wheel from the shaft.
3. Remove rear plastic trim (3 phillips screws). Horn wire is removed from two holes in the steering wheel hub.
4. You'll now see that there are four rivets holding the wheel itself to the hub. You can drill out these rivets on your old wheel and then again on the new wheel. I used a Dremel tool to cut off the backs of them, then used a punch to remove them off the old wheel. On the new wheel I wasn't so lucky with the punch so drilled out their heads too--and then I used the punch successfully to remove them.
5. One the rivets are removed, you can see the four holes in both the hub and the wheel. Line these up with woodruff key slot facing upwards (12 o'clock) and insert your bolts with locking nuts on the back. Tighten to a good torque.
6. Installation is the reverse of removal--use the instructions posted here, except the authors unfortunate use of inches in the socket size. :) It's a 28mm socket.
 

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Discussion Starter #26 (Edited)
Success. Feels much, much better than the plastic wheel. I highly recommend this upgrade.

Sorry for the dirty looking interior pic. The wheel and the interior is cleaner than it looks in this brightly lit picture, that's for sure. haha.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Oh...one more thing though. After I converted the wheel, I took it out for a drive up to Home Depot to get a few things. Speedo worked on the way there...but on the way home the speedo and odometer were non-functional. Mine is an 88....are these Electronic speedometers? Given 1988 I would think so, but you never know with these things. My 88 Milano is electronic.

During the steering wheel install I did mess around a bit with the fusebox to remove the relay for the horn, and I also removed and reinserted the interior lighting relay beside it as it seemed lose and the lights would go on and off when I moved the fusebox around.

Think this has anything to do with my now non-functional speedo?
 

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Strange: my steering wheel is secured by a 27mm nut. Had it off to rebuild the headlight and turn signal switches and just re-torqued it to 38.75 ft.-lbs. today. I'm sure it's 27mm because I don't own a 28mm socket.
 

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check fuse #7 for speedo non-op.
 

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Do you think the bolts you used for the steering wheel attachment, the M4 ones, should be high tensile? May not need it but would not want them to shear off after say riding a kerb or something ...
Pete
 

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Discussion Starter #31
check fuse #7 for speedo non-op.
Just to be clear, the instrument lights and all other gauges including the tach work just fine. It's just the odo/speedo. I'll give it a try though.
 

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Odometer:

When I bought my '88 Spider, both the odometer and trip meter were not working at all, and the speedo was only showing about 1/2 of actual. A few days later, I decided to reset the trip meter, and the trip meter and odo began working, and the speedometer started to work a little better (maybe about 80% or 90% of actual), but after I got 8 miles on the trip meter, both the odometer and trip meter froze up again (speedo kept working).

Anyway, I reset the trip meter again and both trip and odo began clocking the miles, until I had turned another 8 miles when both froze up again. I think the trip meter has a broken tooth at 8 on the mile wheel.

If you press your trip meter button, does either your odometer or trip meter begin functioning?

NOTE: Make sure you only press the trip meter reset button while the car is stopped. Old style trip meter gears often broke if you pressed and held the reset while the speedo cable was turning.

Speedometer:

The speedometer is both mechanical and electrical. A standard hard metal cable runs from the gearbox to an impulse generator located near the firewall on the driver's side of the engine compartment. The impulse generator (which is driven by the mechanical cable) sends an electrical signal to the speedometer. The failure of any one of these components, including the speedometer itself, can be preventing the speedometer from registering the mph or miles clocked.

To diagnose, first check the integrity of the hard cable by disconnecting it from the impulse generator, and then pulling the cable out. Make sure the last part of the cable that you pull out of the tube still has a square shape. The square tip is what makes it possible for the gearbox to drive it. If the tail end that comes out of the tube is not square shaped, your cable is probably broken and will need to be replaced.

If your cable is OK, then check the wiring coming out of the impulse generator. Three wires come out of the firewall side of the IG and have a plug/connector installed at about 5 inches away. Make sure the connections at the plug are good - maybe separate the two sides of the connector, inspect the terminals inside both halves, and shoot some contact cleaner into both sides before reconnecting it.

Good luck,
 

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Discussion Starter #33
It was the cable. I pulled it out and there was nothing square on the other end which means it was broken. I have a new cable ready to go in when I have time.

Been working on Milano Verde rear brakes. :)

Next up, fixing the slow right side window. The left side is just fine...fast too.

One question, are the side markers in the front bumper supposed to blink with the turn signals? I suspect that's a previous owner mod that I will back out. They are LEDs anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Easily replaced the speedo cable which fixed the issue. Now I am working on a leaking gearbox (top of gearbox, looks like lots of threads on this one)....and the slow right side window. Still have the question about the side markers in the front bumper. Are they supposed to blink opposite the front turn signals?
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Uhhh...is this a problem? haha. Rear transmission mount was failed when I got the car. Lots of driveline slip and vibration from the center tunnel. The previous owner had already replaced the guibo.

Put it up on the rack and could see this mount was perished but WOW. haha, this thing was horrible. Used the trusty old "end cap and gear puller" technique and it was out very easily. A 100mm gear puller will easily remove it--but you need at least 130mm to install the new one, 140mm is even better. :) So keep that in mind when using this technique.

This was about 2 weeks ago when I replaced this---then, the next thing.....
 

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Discussion Starter #36
While the car does not really leak engine oil, the gearbox leaks like crazy from the top--and not only that there was lots of seepage from the clutch slave cylinder---which failed about a week ago completely. Absolutely nothing in the pedal and if you refill the reservoir it pretty much immediately leaked out.

Replacing it is extremely easy, the hardest part is dealing with the clip rings. I also replaced the short hose to the hardline too as it was only $12. The rubber boot was completely filled with fluid--is exploded like a zit when I removed it. All over my shirt. Yuk.

So all buttoned up and the clutch operates really nice now. I haven't driven it yet so we'll see if this improves the shifting of the gearbox. I could tell the clutch wasn't quite engaging all the way sometimes before the thing failed completely.
 

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Your leak is probably the inner shift boot is torn.
 

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Uhhh...is this a problem? haha. Rear transmission mount was failed when I got the car. Lots of driveline slip and vibration from the center tunnel. The previous owner had already replaced the guibo.

Put it up on the rack and could see this mount was perished but WOW. haha, this thing was horrible. Used the trusty old "end cap and gear puller" technique and it was out very easily. A 100mm gear puller will easily remove it--but you need at least 130mm to install the new one, 140mm is even better. :) So keep that in mind when using this technique.

This was about 2 weeks ago when I replaced this---then, the next thing.....
It's hard to tell from the photo (because of all the grease on the mount) but it looks like the old mount may not have failed, but merely been installed upside down.
 
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