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Question#1 Spider electric mirrors have the identical body, glass, motor and rear cover as the GTV6 electric mirrors.I have three complete undamaged Spider electric mirrors. I own 2 gtv6s-no Spiders. The only difference I see is the base and the attachment of the body to the base. Is it possible to graft a GTV6 base onto a Spider mirror body?.
Question #2 I have several GTV6 mirrors where the body has been snapped from the base, once by yours truly,another by a friend and another by some miscreant on a bicycle(I hope it hurt some). Has anyone had any success gluing the GTV6 mirror body to the base? Given the scarcity of these mirrors inquiring minds(well, me) want to know.
 

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This may steer you off in the wrong direction, but...

There seems to be a nut and really fat spring on the underside of those mirrors that hold the two sections together. The nut might come off if you are extra careful not to allow the plastic at the neck not to split open from the torquing. But, no idea if that spring can be compressed enough upon reassembly.
 

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Planetmojo is right about that spring... it is really healthy and keeps the mirror from folding back at speed. I have some photos of an attempted repair I did on a cracked mirror base, it worked out "kinda ok". I'll look for them after I get home this evening. The base has a cam and ramp design, which is held tightly by the spring pressure but is adjustable via the big nut. I put a bit of lithium grease on that ramp when I reassembled it, after repair. The mirrors are foldable, of course, when new but over time they get stiff and the cast base won't take the twist and cracking is the result.
 

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Here's the photos I made of the repaired base. I used JB Weld and fabricated a small steel insert plate, with the ends turned down, to distribute the force of the spring farther out into the surrounding metal. It's still on the car, but we don't try to fold it. ;) You might note I ground down the base of the spring a bit to compensate for the insert thickness.
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1128151846a.jpg 1128151852a.jpg 1128151859a.jpg 1128151903a.jpg
 

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To remove the nut I place a screw extractor into the post hole, this will hold the post still as you remove the nut from the outside. see reply #5 in this thread from an Australian forum.
 

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Joe Elwell
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This may steer you off in the wrong direction, but...

There seems to be a nut and really fat spring on the underside of those mirrors that hold the two sections together. The nut might come off if you are extra careful not to allow the plastic at the neck not to split open from the torquing. But, no idea if that spring can be compressed enough upon reassembly.
I rebuild one of these and had no problem re-installing the spring/nut assembly.
 

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Good to know! Since the normal problems with these mirrors is either the plastic necks on the frames splitting out, or the opening on the metal base getting monkeyed up... there should be enough dead GTV6 and Spider mirrors out there to make two bad ones in to one good one. I believe Spider bases can be swapped onto a GTV6 frame and vice versa. So a better chance of salvaging otherwise dead assemblies from the combined numbers.

Not sure if a special fixture is needed in compressing the spring? And I expect special care may be needed in wrenching off the nut without splitting out the plastic neck on the frame. Anyone with experience on those two issues can pipe in for those that may want to try that.

Peter
 

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Joe Elwell
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Good to know! Since the normal problems with these mirrors is either the plastic necks on the frames splitting out, or the opening on the metal base getting monkeyed up... there should be enough dead GTV6 and Spider mirrors out there to make two bad ones in to one good one. I believe Spider bases can be swapped onto a GTV6 frame and vice versa. So a better chance of salvaging otherwise dead assemblies from the combined numbers.

Not sure if a special fixture is needed in compressing the spring? And I expect special care may be needed in wrenching off the nut without splitting out the plastic neck on the frame. Anyone with experience on those two issues can pipe in for those that may want to try that.

Peter
Hey Peter - I rebuilt mine with parts I bought from you, and sent you some pix after I did it. I honestly don't recall any special fixtures/etc I needed.

What I do remember is, as a result of your warnings, I had a healthy respect for that big spring and the nut holding it. I very slowly loosened it, and when it finally let go it was something of an anti-climax - no crazy tension involved. I recall that it went back together by hand - no tools to compress, etc.

Thanks again for those parts - the mirror assembly looks great now!
Joe
 

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Hey Peter - I rebuilt mine with parts I bought from you, and sent you some pix after I did it. I honestly don't recall any special fixtures/etc I needed.

What I do remember is, as a result of your warnings, I had a healthy respect for that big spring and the nut holding it. I very slowly loosened it, and when it finally let go it was something of an anti-climax - no crazy tension involved. I recall that it went back together by hand - no tools to compress, etc.

Thanks again for those parts - the mirror assembly looks great now!
Joe
+ 1. just disassembled two, one pristine, no spring compression, easy to separate, the other one extremely rusty, was a pain to get off but finally removed with loads of WD40 equivalent..
 

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Thanks Joe. That should be enough feedback to diminish any major concerns on disassembly or reassembly. Guess it doesn't require an extra brave dude after all. As finding complete ones in good shape is becoming harder, this should increase the number of salvageable GTV6 and Spider Vitalonis awaiting a second life.

Peter
 

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A note on the bases. The RHD and LHD bases have the cams in different locations, and carry different part numbers, so you need to make sure you replace with the same type for your region or you won't be able to adjust the mirror to see anything sensible. I did consider casting the bases (Hobby casting of Si-Al with my son), but the metal is so thin in the neck area it really needs to be die-cast which is a whole level of expense more. Another Idea is to investment cast the base, and machine out the neck, which will also be quite expensive in terms of jig making, plus I don't have a milling machine.
One final note is that he number on the plastic part of the mirror does not uniquely identify the application, as this same number is used on the generic Vitaloni mirror, which has a ball-joint affair in the base.
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Joe is spot-on target with his disassembly comments. The nut has an extended neck which pilots the spring in position, so you can get it started onto the threads with the spring in place. As far as the nut and threads rusting, I wouldn't be caught dead in my garage without a can of Kroil penetrant. Can't be beat! That's how to avoid cracking out the plastic neck.
 

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here's a pic from when my welding equipment supply guy repaired the cracked mirror base when I asked him for some advice on it :). As the base is made of an alloy he had to be extra careful with the welding but it did the job. I haven't ground the weld back in order to fit the mirror unit onto it as I managed to find another base but it's there in case I'll need it in the future.

https://flic.kr/p/2kJbZAQ
https://flic.kr/p/2kJbLXU
 
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