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Discussion Starter #1
The best way to get this poorly designed thing off the front of my car was a combination of ideas offered on the BB. First what DIDNT work. Trying to remove the crank pulley bolt (1-1/2" BTW). We tried various impact wrenches and some tricks with a large vice grips, heat and breaker bar - no good.

On to the dreaded lower 2 studs: The double nut technique - one stud was on so tight that the nut actually stripped the stud threads where it was sitting.

So after all this I removed all the nuts and moved the pump away from the block as far as it would go which gave me room to put some heat on the block around the studs. I used a butane torch my wife has for glazing foods, butane burns very hot (hotter than propane - not as hot as acetelyne) which makes it great on alloys, plus the torch point is very small. I was then able to grab on to the stud with a vice grip on the un-threaded part and got them off. Its a little easier to remove the stud above the one on the passenger side so there is more room for the vice grips.

I hope this helps.
 

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First what DIDNT work. Trying to remove the crank pulley bolt (1-1/2" BTW). We tried various impact wrenches and some tricks with a large vice grips, heat and breaker bar - no good.
Hmmm, curious that you could not remove the nut with an impact, that method has never failed me.

With the front grill and radiator removed, you have almost direct access to the nut, sometimes you have to sit on it for a while with the impact gun, but it should break free.

How many lb/ft of torque in reverse is your impact rated at?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hi Joe ...

Isn't it a bolt? (See pic) mine fit a 1-1/2" socket. I have 2 Impacts one is a Chinese something but the other is a Snap-On. My compressor is set @ 120lbs.
If I did the stud removal 1st, I wouldnt have had to pull the radiator (not that it was a big deal). Heating the studs worked very quickly.
 

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Isn't it a bolt? (See pic) .
It actually has a shaft with internal instead of external threads, technically making it a nut. Did you stake down the locking tab on the washer? Maybe someone used red locktite.

By the way, your post was very timely for me. I had come inside sweaty and discouraged to see if there was an auto parts store open at 6PM (eastern) on July 4 that carried a stud remover for my engine/bellhousing studs. Double nutting wasn't working. Read your post and realized - oh yeah, vise grips! Did the job and still had time to watch the fireworks:). Thanks.

Bill
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Glad it helped...

The locking tab was not in place. The problem with this bolt/nut is applying heat doesnt do much. With a regular nut when heat is applied, the nut will expand around the stud/bolt breaking the rust/chemical bond to the stud. IMHO removing the grill-radiator-crank nut/bolt is NOT a good solution to this problem. Finding how easily the studs are removed with heat makes the job alot simpler/easier/faster.
 

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After trying for 30 minutes to get bolt off, I squirted Locktite Penetrating Oil on the bolt a few times, then let it sit for 30 minutes. I came back with an electric impact through the lower grill opening, with an extention and off it came.
 

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IMHO removing the grill-radiator-crank nut/bolt is NOT a good solution to this problem. Finding how easily the studs are removed with heat makes the job alot simpler/easier/faster.
OK, but what are you going to do when your front main seal is leaking and you need to replace the seal? :D

The bottom line is the front crank pulley nut is designed to come off as part of normal maintenance on this engine. Removing the lower studs is a great and ingenious workaround for water pump replacement, but I would be at least somewhat concerned if I could not remove that nut.

Joe
 

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I just got home and looked at the stuff I used to free up the nut. It is GUNK Liquid Wrench Super Penetrant. It is worth a try before all the extra work is done. I used it liberally and let it soak in and do its job. It works.
 

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I have found that you can hammer away at *some* pulley nuts all day with an impact wrench and not budge it - well - at least for some value of all day.

Blocking the flywheel and using a 3/4" socket wrench with a long piece of cheaterpipe on it will usually pull that thing right off. I've seen pulley nuts requering way more than 500 Nm of torque to come off. Why these things get torqued down THAT hard seing as they have locking tabs on them is sometimes a mystery to me but so is the tendency for tyre monkeys to use impact wrenches on wheel nuts.....

Just one of those things, I guess, where tight is tight.

Otherwise, drilling a couple of holes will take the tension off the nut and you can unscrew it with your hand. After all - a new nut is cheaper than new tools.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Joe as usual you're right...

about needing to take off the front pulley at some time. The deal is when that time comes I'll put the car on a lift - lock the flywheel & then tackle the crank nut. I just get pissed sometimes when getting to a job is harder than the job itself
 

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I've never seen the crank pulley nut that couldn't be removed with a 4 foot section of 1" plumbing pipe slipped over your breaker bar. It's pretty easy to put 500+ foot pounds on the thing if you use a long enough cheater. You do need to make sure your passenger side of the engine compartment is protected for when that thing breaks loose, however!

Erik
 
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