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I know that replacement parts have been unavailable for years. Just wondering if someone has come up with a good replacement solution. I used HD silicone gasket cement, and rotated the original piece. It no longer leaks fuel fumes, but I know it won't last forever. --TIA
 

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Maybe add a layer of Shoe Goo on the side that doesn't show. This is recommended to repair cracks on the rubber air ducts used on Bosch-injected cars. I used this on my S4 Spider, and it worked so well, I haven't installed the replacement part I bought.

I know that replacement parts have been unavailable for years. Just wondering if someone has come up with a good replacement solution. I used HD silicone gasket cement, and rotated the original piece. It no longer leaks fuel fumes, but I know it won't last forever. --TIA
 

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There is a recent thread on creating a new tube to solve that problem, here on the BB. As each end of the stock tubing has a different diameter, I think, out of the various suggestions that were offered... the one that sounded to be one of the better offerings, involved finding two radiator-style hoses in the proper diameter (in a material that was OK around gasoline), Then having a metal ring machined to transition from one hose size to the other. There were a few other ideas that sounded equally good.

As the fuel port and the inlet tube from the gas tank are not perfectly inline, and the stock hose has enough flex to be able to handle that... you may have to factor that into the replacement assembly. Either finding hoses with the right amount of curve, or designing that kink into the metal transitional piece.

As one of our members in eastern Oklahoma has the technology to create rubber tubes for the intakes on ALFA V6s, maybe it's time someone asked if he would be willing to add a new replacement part for the filler hose to his catalog. Jah? I think there is a large enough market to justify that. Put me down for 2 or 3.
 

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Another temporary repair could be to buy a can of Plastisol at your local hardware store. Plug each open end of the fractured hose, and dip the part in the silicone several times to build up a fatter outer skin. Not sure how long that would hold up. But an easy possible short-term cure.

Plastisol can be found in spray cans, or a tin can for dipping. I think I'd prefer the dip option.
 

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I would take one, and I can't believe these as well as some of the other boots are not available still.
 

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I was able to find a universal fit one at a napa parts house in my town. It needed to be cut down on both side of the bend in order to fit. I believe it was somewhere around $30. I no longer have a part number for it though.
 

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For our smelly Milano, I used a universal easily bought Goodyear gas impermeable hose, with a molded 30 deg bend, which just needed a little shortening on each end IIRC. Absolutely worked like a champ, and took little time. I'm sure one could easily do the same for a GTV6. Not good to fiddle with a deteriorating hose refurbed with some shmooey compound when such good universal replacements are easily available.
 

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Maybe out of ignorance, but I was given a length of fuel-grade hose from a friend that fit perfectly over one end - can't remember if tank or filler - but was slightly too small for the other. I just slit the hose a bit to open it up enough to fit over then wiggled it up until it was fully engaged. Clamp and clamp, it hasn't leaked a drop in 5 years. Absolutely no gas vapor odor either. I wish I knew the diameter, and I'm sure is was SAE and not metric since it came from the leftover box from a Camaro restoration, but he assured me it was readily available at any auto parts store.
 

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Engineered fix

The filler boot in my GTV6 split along the seam and I was unsuccessful with tape and glue repairs. The tube from the filler is 2.25" OD abd the tube to the tank is 2" OD. I bought a 2" to 2.25" hose coupler and a length of 2.25" hose from speed_daddy on ebay. It is good quality 4 ply hose for turbo applications. Cost was about $16 including 4 clamps.. I also bought a 1.5" plastic coupler from the plumbing section at Home Depot. I had to reduce the length of the plastic coupler and cut and trim the hoses so that they could be fitted into the tight space. I lubed everything with WD40 so that they would slide together easily. The pictures show the details.
 

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I have to voice a concern. Ed's repair looks good but is the hose silicone? Silicone hose is not rated for fuel although it resists spills. I would really like to know the composition of the hose and will check back with you when I get ready to do mine.

This is all talk and I try to avoid idle chatter but: I will explore adding a metal reducer to the filler neck so 2" fuel rated hose can be used. I know how to fabricate the reducer but would have to figure out how the fuel nozzle interacts.

Meanwhile, I found a rubber reducer at filler neck supply. Looks cheesy to me but might be a solution. Here is the link: http://www.fillernecksupply.com/2-1-4-to-2-fuel-fill-hose-i-d-reducer-b05/

Interested to see what Bruce is working on too.

Thank you both,

Scott Shure
85 GTV6
Near Baltimore
 

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Meanwhile, I found a rubber reducer at filler neck supply. Looks cheesy to me but might be a solution. Here is the link: http://www.fillernecksupply.com/2-1-...d-reducer-b05/
That might work. It needs to be at least 5" long. The hose is only in contact with liquid gasoline when the tank is being filled, the rest of the time it is just vapors. Silicone should be fine for that.
 

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Actually, it is not that big. It fits over the 2" tube that goes into the tank and enlarges it to 2-1/4" Then you can use a single piece of 2-1/4" hose to make the connection. I am a little suspicious of this solution but it is sold for use with fuel. I have had problems cold extruding hoses. This may have the opposite problem of being difficult to generate sufficient grip to seal.
 

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For those of you who are making a project of jury-rigging rubber tubes together... you may want to put that on hold for another week or two.

Help is on the way !! NEW ones should be available very soon. I was told to keep the announcement under my hat until ALL was in readiness. And I have, for the last month and a half. By the first of next week, I should know prices, with pix, and confirmation on material and its friendliness with a gasoline environment. Will divulge the source when I have all that in hand.

I didn't break my word entirely. But if you guys were still creating time-consuming or expensive half-solutions... I didn't want to let you putter on those for another week, only to find out an exact copy of the original is on the near horizon, either.

Updates soon,
Peter
 

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Woo! I can't wait to see what the repro's look like! The universal one from NAPA that I have on my car works pretty good, but the ID is just a bit bigger than the stock one. Maybe by a 1/8", but it seals up just fine. I'll be standing by for your update!
 

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But if you guys were still creating time-consuming or expensive half-solutions.
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Is $16 expensive?
I bought a 2" to 2.25" hose coupler and a length of 2.25" hose from speed_daddy on ebay. It is good quality 4 ply hose for turbo applications. Cost was about $16 including 4 clamps.
 

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Is $16 expensive?
Nope... $15 is a pretty good deal !

Maybe I should have said, "time-consuming OR expensive". Then it would have been less likely to be read as: "time-consuming AND expensive". I know some were having a transitional collar machined out of metal. So, that might qualify as a pricier option. I'm especially pleased that many of us are not letting NLA parts put the brakes on a project. As a product designer, I enjoy seeing the clever tricks employed in solving these problems.

One of the tricks I had offered in the past was for the squeegies that run along the beltline. The rubbers on the exterior side of the glass shrink badly from age and UV. The side window glass must protect the interior squeegies, so they are usually still a proper length. By swapping some extra interior rubbers to the opposite sides on the outside, the problem is eliminated for a few years (until he sun gets those too). Also, you can extend that time by trimming a short section off a pre-shrunken exterior rubber to bond to the end of the too-short exterior squeegie, and compacting its length. That way you get a few more years of the tigthly-squeezed length to naturalize, before it begins shrinking further.
 

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New GTV6 Rubber Connector Tubes Now Available !!

I know that replacement parts have been unavailable for years. Just wondering if someone has come up with a good replacement solution. I used HD silicone gasket cement, and rotated the original piece. It no longer leaks fuel fumes, but I know it won't last forever. --TIA
Hi Guys,

You will be delighted to hear that you no longer have to Frankenstein a solution for connecting the GTV6 filler neck to the gas tank, as of the first of next week (22 Aug '16). Brand new ones will be available then.

About 4 months ago I had contacted Greg Gordon on considering adding these to his catalog, as I felt there was a large enough market to make it worth his time. After a week of number crunching he decided to go for it. A few months of having molds created and approving pre-production samples resulted in a small initial run being received in OK. A group of us scarfed up about 2//3rd of those. If you need one now, you should place an order soon. Otherwise, they will still be available... but you may have to wait on a back-order list to have more molded. A second order has been placed to the molder to fatten their stock, as the first batch got gobbled up pretty quickly.

The new version has a less pronounced bulge in the middle to make the molding process easier. Also, this design works on GTV6s, but not Alfetta Coupes.

Here's the details on those:
Material--- EPDM (specially formulated for fuel and fuel that contains ethanol)
Part Number--- FFARgtv6
Part Title--- GTV6 Fuel Filler Hose
Retail price--- $60 each + S&H
Payment Options--- PayPal
Contact Info for Purchasing--- [email protected]

If the orders on these are seen as profitable for the supplier, we may then be in a position to recommend a couple more NLA rubber parts to bring back to life. A rubber seal for the GTV6 windshield washer pump might be an option to add. Any other rubber parts you'd like included??

It has be proposed that a statue be erected to me and Greg Gordon for getting this in motion... if everyone chips in :- ) I'd be fine with just a bobblehead doll of me.

Peter
 

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Thanks Peter and thanks Greg,

I will place on order today.

As to additional NLA rubber parts, here is one that may have a slightly larger sales potential. The boot for the clutch fork. It covers the end of the clutch slave to the opening on the side of the bell housing where the fork protrudes. Been patching mine for years.

I'll help either with development funds or a part to copy (from December to March?)
 

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Thanks Peter and thanks Greg,

I will place on order today.

As to additional NLA rubber parts, here is one that may have a slightly larger sales potential. The boot for the clutch fork. It covers the end of the clutch slave to the opening on the side of the bell housing where the fork protrudes. Been patching mine for years.

I'll help either with development funds or a part to copy (from December to March?)
Thanks right back,

I just offered the windshield washer pump seal for them to be considering. But since this is an ongoing dialogue, I'll include your suggestion to add to that list in my next message.

Peter
 
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