[ferrasm1]

This is probably the dumb question of the day, but here goes. On my 84 Spider there are 4 jack points which come with the usual warnings about don't lift anywhere but here. What I want to know is this. Can I safely put a floor jack under these points? What about a point to put a jack stand under under? Thanks for any input on this...

 

[ghnl]

Yes, you can put a floor jack under the jacking points. That assumes they are in good condition and the body is not rusty.

You can put jack stands under the front's lower A-arms and under the rear's trailing arms close to the axle.

 

[seventy1]

Since were talkin' about jackin'... what's the best sequence to raise the car? I've either jacked under the axle first, putting stands under the trailing arm pivots, then at the front jack points with stands under the A-arm spring pockets or reversed the process front first. A bit scary jacking the second front corner with one stand under the first A-arm and I've had a front stand slip off the arm while doing the rear second . So lately, I've been doing the front last, but still doesn't feel safe with the twisted body. I've read that some jack under the front crossmember, but I'd need to use ~3" tall ramps to get under the CM and getting the car up on ramps is tough when it doesn't run! Anyone have a better method?

 

[neo297]

Since were talkin' about jackin'... what's the best sequence to raise the car? I've either jacked under the axle first, putting stands under the trailing arm pivots, then at the front jack points with stands under the A-arm spring pockets or reversed the process front first. A bit scary jacking the second front corner with one stand under the first A-arm and I've had a front stand slip off the arm while doing the rear second . So lately, I've been doing the front last, but still doesn't feel safe with the twisted body. I've read that some jack under the front crossmember, but I'd need to use ~3" tall ramps to get under the CM and getting the car up on ramps is tough when it doesn't run! Anyone have a better method?

I have a low profile high lift 3.5 ton floor jack as with my quads body work I can get this jack to the front cross member from the front or side even under the oil pan guard. I then put my ramps under the front wheels I can not drive up on to the ramps due to the clearance issues with the quads "aero package" lol. Never had issues using the CM I do put a piece of 1x4 over the jacking plate though and if needed I put jack stands under the spring pans.
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200345429_200345429

 

[ghnl]

I would lift the front first - you'll need a low profile floor jack or drive the car onto pieces of 2X6 lumber if using a regular floor jack. With the rear wheels chocked lift under the front crossmember. Secure the front end on sturdy jack stands.

Then lift the rear by jacking under the differential. Again, a low profile jack is needed or more pieces of 2X6. Make a differential drain protector so the jack is lifting the differential case and not on the drain plug. Place sturdy jack stands underneath.

Never work under a car supported by a jack. And before getting underneath jostle the car to make sure everything is stable. I suggest letting a family member know you are going to be under the car and make sure they know how to operate the jack. I lower the jack then turn the valve so it's ready to pump up again 'just in case'.


Or just press a button and lift the whole car....

 

[ferrasm1]

Yes, you can put a floor jack under the jacking points. That assumes they are in good condition and the body is not rusty.

You can put jack stands under the front's lower A-arms and under the rear's trailing arms close to the axle.

Thanks a bunch, the frame and body are both very solid so it should be fine then. Just did not want to find out the hard way that the surrounding area was soft...

Steve

 

[desmo veloce]

Eric-

You're my hero! I always wanted my own lift!

~Chris

 

[2Tomato]

Thanks Eric. Very helpful. I'd be up or back down in 5 minutes with a low profile jack.

Any suggestions on the low profile jack..? (NAPA - $250 - for example. I's a looking for "best value" - works well and built well.)

Any clearance issues jacking the lever from the rear of the car? Or do you com at the differential from one side? (I'm asking because I drive up onto a 2x6 and the side entry with the jack is hampered.)

 

[radamm]

Eric's no hero-- he's a durn show-off.... yah, I'm jealous, too!

 

[flivesay]

Thanks Eric. Very helpful. I'd be up or back down in 5 minutes with a low profile jack.

Any suggestions on the low profile jack..? (NAPA - $250 - for example. I's a looking for "best value" - works well and built well.)

Any clearance issues jacking the lever from the rear of the car? Or do you com at the differential from one side? (I'm asking because I drive up onto a 2x6 and the side entry with the jack is hampered.)

harbour freight has a lightweight aluminum low profile jack that works great on alfas. like everything else at HF it's on sale the week after you've been shopping. I use my old heavy duty floor jack for my 4runner but the lightweight jacks the alfa. It rolls under the sump and fits the crossmember and no problem under the rearend.

 

[ghnl]

Eric's no hero-- he's a durn show-off...

And just to rub it in a bit more, it was my wife's idea to buy the Spider, expand the garage from 22'X22' to 25'X42, get the lift, etc...
(Yes, she has two sisters.
No, they are nothing like her.)

 

[AlfaPolygamist]

So, Eric .... Why did you choose "Direct Lift" over other options/competitors? And tracks for the lift (or lift with tracks) instead of adjustable swing arms?

 

[seventy1]

I have a low profile high lift 3.5 ton floor jack Arcan Quick Lift Service Jack — 3 1/2-Ton, Model# XL35 | Floor Jacks | Northern Tool + Equipment

This looks like a nice one, definitely lower than my Craftsman std issue. Gave the crossmember method another go last night. I had to first use my little floor jack under the LCAs to lift each front wheel and place a double stack of 2X6 pieces underneath. Then my big jack could reach the crossmember to safely raise the front in a level fashion. At the rear, the jack could just get under the diff and I had to use short little strokes, bumping off the bottom of the Quad fascia. Much better, I'll stick with this method.

Eric, that's a beauty, I've got a bad case of garage envy. You wouldn't believe the gymnastics I go through each fall to wittle out a parking place for my wife . She was actually open to expand if it included a new master bath...

 

[2Tomato]

Since this is primarily about jacking around, I agree - that's one nice garage.

Both those low profile jacks seem like good options, with significant differences in lift capacity and overall weight. Choice is up to the jacker.

That Direct-Lift seems affordable for what it is. Which model did you choose? Why... if I may ask?

 

[ghnl]

So, Eric .... Why did you choose "Direct Lift" over other options/competitors? And tracks for the lift (or lift with tracks) instead of adjustable swing arms?

That Direct-Lift seems affordable for what it is. Which model did you choose? Why... if I may ask?

I bought the 'Pro Park 9'. It is big enough to lift my F250 ext cab diesel pick up and small enough to fit the MG & Alfa. Other lifts were big enough for the truck but the ramps were too far apart for the small cars or vice-versa. One model has moveable ramps to vary the track width but that makes using a jacking bridge problematic.

Since I use the lift mostly for storage I preferred the four post lift with drive on ramps vs a two post lift with arms that lift via jacking points/chassis. A two post lift is usually preferred for working on a car as it is easy to remove wheels. But with the four post lift & a jacking bridge it is almost as easy. Also, a two post lift needs a thicker/stronger concrete floor and must be bolted down. The four post lift sits on a standard concrete garage floor and does not need to be bolted down. (they actually come with caster kits for mobility)

 

[sloboy89]

Eric,

Now that this thread has been completely hijacked, what is the ceiling height in your garage? I'd love to get a setup like yours, but my ceiling is only 10 feet. Wondering if that would work.

 

[ghnl]

10' would be OK for working under a car (you can use a rolling stool) but probably not for storing a car above & parking another below. Our garage has an 11' 8" high ceiling. With the MGA (sans windscreen) raised up I have over 6' clearance underneath.

 

[sloboy89]

Thanks, Eric. That's what I figured -- okay for working but not for increasing storage room. That's not currently an issue, but my kids will be driving in a couple of years and undoubtedly will want to take garage space away from the Alfa.

 

[GTV4EVR]

10 feet works for me

My ceiling is just over 10 feet. I had to change the overhead door mechanism so it is close to the ceiling, but it works well now.

 

[AlfaPolygamist]

(I suspect I am the one who hijacked this thread -- and to be consistent.......) I'm curious about the brand life you chose and why.