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Discussion Starter #1
Hi folks --

It has been awhile since I've posted but now I'm stumped. My question is simply, what is the best technique for removing the silent blocks from the exhaust bracket? And while we're at it the transmission mount, which I'm assuming is similar? Brute force? Special tools?

Thanks
Nick
 

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The exhaust bracket comes apart and goes back together easily with a small hydraulic press. The transmission rear mount comes out easily with the Snap-On threaded tool for removing such larger size silent blocks with the car assembled. You can make your own tool from plumbing components. There is also a technique involving a cool flame from a torch, heating the aluminum ring, and then knocking the old mount out with a piece of pipe and large hammer. I have never tried that for fear of ... well, just because I don't want to. Alfa had a special tool for this job, some Alfa shops may still have that tool.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Gordon -

Thanks for the tips. I ended up making a puller and after some trial and error everything eventually did work. It's amazing how much force, albeit controlled, goes into removing that dang transmission bushing. Anyways, I think it's pretty common to make one of these devices but if there is interest I would be happy to post some pictures of my creation.

Cheers
Nick
 

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Hi Nick,
I've been asked to build one for a Mercedes Benz suspension silent block that is just HUGE!
I wonder if it will work? This one is about 3" across!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yeah that looks to be about the same size as the 101 transmission mount, but looks much more sturdy (or german). I don't remember how large across the tranny mount is, but I have since imprinted into memory that it's 2.5 inches in diameter. I'll post some pics of my build when I get home tonight.

nick
 

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The Alfa 105 mounts are tiny compared to that MB mount. 750's are tiny-tiny.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
So here's some images of what the tool I built looked like in final form. I already tossed the old silent block so just imagine it's there between the coupler pipe (1.25-1.5") and the bigger PVC (3") end cap.

The left side does the pushing. When the nut is tightened, it pushes the plate into the coupler which in turn pushes into the transmission silent block. Note, the end of the coupler says '1.5in' but this refers to the inner pipe diameter and not the outer which is really 2.5 in -- the perfect size to land on the perimeter of the bushing but still inside the transmission compartment. When the nut is torqued enough (read: alot) it will eventually push the bushing into the oversized PVC container. This PVC part rests on the other side of the transmission and as picture 3 illustrates, has a similar metal plate that receives the brunt of the force once things get moving.

I've tried various versions and this is by far the most successful for the 101 tranny bushing. As Gordon mentioned, the 750 and 105 have smaller versions of the bushing making things easier I would imagine. So Gordon, I think this tool would work for you on the MB.

One cool thing is by using a coupler, you have the option of switching the pipe around and using the 1.25 in end, which I did for the silent blocks on the exhaust hanger. I just clamped the hanger to a vise and be very careful not to bend the hanger when torquing down. Worked well.

Cheers --

Nick
 

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Looks just like my old one Nick, except I used steel pipe on the push-into side when it was built 40 years ago! I'm amazed the PVC did not blow up. Tougher than I would have guessed.
I now have a replica of the factory tool about done, so I'll return my borrowed factory tool pattern. From working with a Snap-On variation that does many of these, I found they used a hardened fine thread that makes the job easy. My replica includes the hardened fine thread. The factory pattern tool had a hardened coarse thread. Much harder in use, as is my plumbing tool like yours.
Good JOB!
 

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Transmission Silentbloc Removal:

Some removals are harder than others, but I recently was able to pop out the old Silentbloc from a 105 transmission using a cheapo HF heat gun on high to heat the aluminum tailpiece and gently tapping it out with a drift.
Matt
 

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Dean Russell @ Trail Auto heats the aluminum with a cool torch and whacks them out and in with a piece of pipe and a hammer. Same idea.
 
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