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Hello

Rebuilding my 1600 on my Super. Should the rear crank seal be flush?

It appears the old one was not by examining the coloring? (see pic below) I did put the oil slinger in behind

regards Daron
 

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Some of these are known to pop out. So folks bend little tabs off the rear cover plate and/or insert holding screws to help keep them in place. I use a little sticky seal around the outside, I haven't had one fall out.
Andrew
 

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I wouldnt pick the orange AKRON seal as first choice, I tend to like the brown Corteco seal. Just a personal preference. That seal should not 'blow out' if your motor is in good shape. If there is excessive crankcase pressure, then it might
 

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I wouldnt pick the orange AKRON seal as first choice, I tend to like the brown Corteco seal. Just a personal preference. That seal should not 'blow out' if your motor is in good shape. If there is excessive crankcase pressure, then it might
Agree. I had no preference until I lost two Akron seals in different engines several years ago, neither of which had excessive blow-by. The Corteco seal is worth a couple of extra dollars imo.
 

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I'm working on my father's Alfa engine (it's out and apart), and am exploring the Alfa forum for what is normal 'in this world' for stuff like this. I am primarily a Ferrari mechanic so any knowledge I have is from that side of things, but the tech is obviously nearly identical. Every marque group has their own secret sauce, so take what I have to offer with a grain of salt. Typically on crank seals, I either install them dry or with a tiny bit of sealant that cures enough that it will hold the seal in place, such as Loctite 515. RTV is awful and Hondabond doesn't cure with enough rigidity to hold the seal in place.

Trying not to derail this too much, but while we're discussing that area, I've discovered the 'cigarette seal' and the complete RTV replacement of that seal. I understand the logic behind doing so, but also question why not just coat the cigarette seal with Hondabond making certain to have some at the top and bottom as well?
 

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ferrari thats exactly what I do. works fine so far....I use ultra grey IIRC , not hondabond, but I should probably get some Hbond.....
 

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I prefer Hondabond as it physically 'bonds' to the aluminum and somewhat hardens but retains some flexibility. RTV sort of sits on a component, bonds very poorly, and remains rubbery. Loctite 515, literally smells and looks like grape jelly, is very similar and remains my 'second in command' for engine work. 515 is literally a stronger yet equally flexible Loctite as 574. I have no idea why 574 is so popular, must be down to Porsche recommending the stuff ages ago.
 

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The cigarette seals are hard to get in, especially if you coat them with something sticky. The factory tool to drive them in is like trying to push a wet noddle up a pipe, and there is much resistance from the hole. I put some sealer in the bottom of the bore, and then push the seals down, with it, as I install the rear main bearing cap. Then press firmly on the outstanding bit with a small bolt to press it in as far as it'll go. Don't cut off the excess unless it's really long; let the pan push it on when bolted on. You can check if the cigarette has bottomed in the bore by using a tiny piece of wire to fish into the chamfer space at the bottom of the main bearing cap; does it pass through or hit the seal? You want the latter.
Others may have different methods.
Andrew
 

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This seal is seated. The Akron and Corteco are both 82x105x12 so it appears to me it's not quite all the way in. This is a 2L so it's possible they are different but I doubt it. I like the idea of the Honda Bond.
 

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If you have the tool, sure, use it. I don't so either drive it in carefully with a block of wood or install it before tightening the bearing cap. As suggested above, I use a little sealant around the circumference of the seal.
 
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