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Discussion Starter #1
I have a question about shortening the fuel filler neck on my 69 Series 1 GTV.

I have removed and refurbished the gas tank inside and out. Before putting it back in the car, I want to shorten the fuel filler neck as has been discussed several times on this BB. Everything I've read says to take out about a one inch section. My question is from what part of the neck should the section be taken from. The neck has one vent tube protruding from it. This is the fitting for one of the tubes running to the vapor canister. There seems to be enough space below that tube, between the vent tube and the tank, to take the section out there. However, that part of the filler neck also has a slight curve in it. Since I intend to reconnect the two cut pieces using a section of rubber hose, I am concerned that replacing a curved section with a piece of straight rubber hose might throw off the location of fuel filler opening in the area behind the filler door. On the other hand, if I cut the section out from above the vent tube, I am concerned the rubber connector might interfere with the fuel filler neck seal.

I would appreciate any advise from someone who has done this modification.

Thanks. Tim
 

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I did something simillar on the tank of my 74 gtv....dont know why these didnt fit better from the factory? Anyway I cut 1 inch out of the tube just below the welded angle, just below the fuel filler top. Since I had the tank out for cleaning anyway, I just tig welded the parts back together...scribed a vertical line so the orientation of the filler cap would be correct after shortening. Worked out great.
 

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Thanks, Rockie. I agree welding is probably better, but I don't have a welder and don't really want to pay to have someone else do it for me. Besides, the consensus seems to be that being able to separate the filler neck makes removing and reinstalling the gas tank much easier as well as installing the filler neck seal. So I think that's the way I'd like to go. Tim
 

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I have a question about shortening the fuel filler neck on my 69 Series 1 GTV.....Since I intend to reconnect the two cut pieces using a section of rubber hose, I am concerned that replacing a curved section with a piece of straight rubber hose might throw off the location of fuel filler opening in the area behind the filler door. On the other hand, if I cut the section out from above the vent tube, I am concerned the rubber connector might interfere with the fuel filler neck seal.
Tim:

Like rockiemosley, I too have modified a GT fuel filler. I did it on a '66 which didn't have the vent tube that you describe. Like rockiemosley, I took out an inch - unlike him, I didn't weld it, just used a short section of fuel-resistant tubing (which I got at a NAPA store) and a couple of hose clamps. Worked GREAT - made re-installation a snap, and my fuel filler is at a more reasonable height to accommodate today's huge nozzles.

Unfortunately, I just can't picture your '69 filler neck, so I can't offer much suggestion as to where to cut it. A photo might help. I will mention that connecting the tank to the filler with a hose & clamps does allow for some adjustment to the angle between them.
 

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Yea, I see the problem. Wow, it was a lot simpler on my '66 - on the early cars, the tube just rises vertically from the tank, with no little outlets. Section out an inch, and nothing changes except the cap sits lower.

With a curved tube, the geometry gets complicated. Section out an inch along the curve, and the cap will shift rearward when you mate the two ends. I think it could still work, but the filler may appear a little lopsided when you open the fuel door - it will enter the rubber surround at an angle, rather than rising vertically.

I'm not sure what to recommend. Making a cardboard template to check things out and measuring carefully before cutting seem like the way to go.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Good observations, Jay, and a good suggestion about the template. I'll give that a try. Thanks, Tim
 

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In looking at that picture a little more, and thinking about it further, here's an idea:

If you could lose that connector to the evaporative cannister, you could make the cut higher - that is along the section of pipe that is close to vertical. Then the loss of the 1" would result in less of a change in angle. If you make the cut closer to the tank, you are taking out pipe that is oriented more diagonally. That will pull the filler backward as well as down.

I hope Al Gore isn't reading this - but if it were me, I would chop out the connector in the filler pipe, plug the connector coming from the tank, and do away with the evaporative thingy. If you need to rationalize this, the charcoal canister is probably clogged after 42 years, and modern fuel is so involatile that it doesn't evaporate like gas used to.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Jay: Your suggestion already had crossed my mind. But, getting rid of the vapor canister has been a topic of much discussion in past posts. I've reviewed them all and decided I'm more comfortable trying to leave it in place. I don't want Al Gore showing up at my door. Have you seen how big he is? Tim
 

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What a timely thread update! - As I am now dry fitting bits to the car I tried to get my 66 fuel tank back in and I can see no way known to get the tank into the boot without scratching the hell out of the tank or worse the shell itself.

I'll be cutting about 15mm out of mine to a. get it to actually fit into the boot easier and b. have the neck sit lower (the top of the flap aperture had a dent from where the nozzle was being pushed up into the bodywork).
 

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Revisiting this project after all these years, my shortening and welding worked out fine, but the bayonet thing at the end of the spout that holds on the fuel cap is worn out so much that fuel sloshes out on corners. I need to source the metal attachment piece that the fuel cap twists on to. Any ideas?
 
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