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Since I'm fairly new to the site, I have a penchant for bringing back to life old threads.
How is this going?
Is there another thread about this that I've missed?
Is there a list of parts and final cost?

This really appeals to me as I'm (in the near future) going to tear apart my wife '77 Spider and "do it right".
 

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Yes, could we see some more details, like what are the parts that you actually supply? Still like to see a picture of the drive shaft and tranny in the car, maybe from below? I presume we would modify our own drive shaft? If so, what exactly is done and do you supply any of those parts?

Do you ever drive it down to the Bay Area? An Alfa event or so?

Thanks,
 

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GET A MOTORSPORT BOX
I started importing a T5 from US a year ago after reading this thread, T5's are available here but quite expensive, you don't know what you are getting in terms of cond or ratios important for a race car and shifters from S10 are not available cheaply)I got a new 861/2 mustang V8 box which has good ratios especially I was able to get get a .92 fifth, it did mean getting a 3.35 first rather than a 2.95 which would have been better. Anyway I was planning to use Bianchi's adaptor plate but the imput shaft turned out to be exactly the same length as the Alfa input. So we are having to modify the bellhousing. The Ford motorsport box with 2.95 first has longer imput shaft so thats the one to get if you are not so concerned about ratios, also the adaptor plate with the S10 shifter puts the gearshift in exactly the same spot as the original . Mine will sit 20-25 mm further foward.
 

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Discussion Starter #68
yes you are right hans-peter but you are not useing a later t5 w/c box. you have an earlyer on, that used 80/140 gear oil, it has a bad rep. here in the states.. the v8 stangs' were low powered units,, the later/ or if you upped the power in that 5.0 you broke that tranny very fast..enter the new t5 w/c tranny, this box uses atf3 or newer atf4 fuild, it also uses needle bears as apposed to ball bearings in the box.. also the later t5 has duel coned carbon lined synco's.. not the early brass ones.. also the input shaft had changed to a diff one, so you cannot just drill a few holes and mount a t5w/c box to the alfa bellhousing.. won't work... check the t5 websites and you will finde a history of the t5 and t5w/c trannys.
 

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I understand your kit is a plate with the bolt pattern of the T5 and the bolt pattern of the Alfa bell housing. Correct? Not drilling holes in the Alfa bell housing or the T5 plate per se. Right?
 

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Discussion Starter #70
been a long time... but yes.. you bolt the plate to the bellhousing the the t5 to the plate.. had to think about that one..:)
 

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Hans-Peter: I don't quite follow what you mean about same length shaft/no adapter plate. Does that mean the adapter plate would make it too short? And the motorsport box with the longer shaft and the adapter plate will put the shaft in the right place? I think that is what you are saying, but if you could clarify that?

Bianchi: Do you supply this plate still, or not anymore? Or were you just outlining what you did so others could copy. Not completely clear on what you would supply if that is what you do with this (or did).

Is the plate thickness equal to the extra length of the shaft as in Hans-Peters examples?

I know the thread sat for year or so, but have seen you mention it briefly on other threads. Can you summarize the state of everything right now? Are you still running it? Do you manufacture it to sell? What do you include? Or do you have a template to provide? Etc.

Thanks,
 

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Bianchi - the T5 I have is brand new, made in 2010 , the 86 box was WC and this one is I hope a bit stronger than the original, presumably the input shaft is the same as the 86 mustang V8 so they bolt straight in.
Iachella - yes you are exactly right, if you put an adaptor plate on a non motorsport box the input shaft will be too short, also all T5 input shafts are bigger and have a longer sleeve for the clutch bearing. We are cutting the back off an Alfa bell housing and welding a plate onto that. My engineer has done this sort of thing many times, here in NZ we don't have the resources you guys in the US have so we tend to build these things ourselves. You wouldn't believe the range of cars running around here with Toyota box's.
Using Bianchis adaptor plate would be less hassle though. My car already has a Ford pressure plate, , paddle clutch, toyota clutch bearing with custom mount so its all different anyway.
Before I ordered the box I did some research as was a bit bothered about stories of T5's breaking while racing. Took me a while to realise that these were US stories and they were talking about V8's drag racing with slicks, big torque and locked diffs, the gearbox is the weak link,
While my 2 litre Alfa has the same power has an early mustang V8 it will never have the torque and the weak link is traction of the tyres, 205/50 racing tyres, you wouldn't want to go wider, so unless you get a very early box or one made for a 4 cylinder I don't thing breaking will be a problem. However you want a V8 box to get the right ratios.
 

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i have one of bianchi's t5 kits. it does require some machining of the bellhousing as the t5 input and front bearing retainer is a little bit larger
 

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alfavulcan - which tailshaft did you chose? S10 or non-S10? I think the key is choosing the tailshaft you want with the correct length input shaft for the plate to work.

The difference in input shaft length is a bit confusing. There is the WC nomenclature and also the Motorsport nomenclature just introduced above.

I am going to research the boxes as best I can, but does anyone know what the shaft length of each of the box variants are? Or shall we say, for the plate to work, what is the length of the shaft needed - from base of the T5 box to the tip?
 

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i am using a 95 mustang t-5 with the rear mount shifter. i have just mocked mine up with one of larry dickmans v6 bellhousings. i haven't yet machined mine or mounted it yet as i've not been home much this year, los angeles now since oct 31 till end of february. everything on hold. i plan on using a one piece drive shaft and a custom console or modified s2 or s3 console
 

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actually 94 1/2 mustang t5 from a v6 car, easy to find, mine was $150 at a pick a part, longer input is what bianchi uses, earlier shorter input could be used if adapter bellhousing length were kept shorter, something like 3/4 in IIRC. gear ratios on v8 mustang 5th gear are a little too high. both are WC
 

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with bianchi's kit, 94-95 mustangs [ t-bird?] gearbox is what you want. v6 and v8 box first is 3.35, fifth is .68 on v8, .72 on v6. a couple of sites i've checked, most notable a volvo swap, thought the .68 ratio was too high after driving on the freeway. it may be okay with older 115 cars w/4.56 gear, but my spider already has 4.10 axle so i went with v6 box-didn't hurt that it was a lot cheaper too
 

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I just found that two days ago and was going to post a pdf of that article. I've printed it myself and will probably bring it with me when I visit the junk yards. I also found an article a table of ratios vs transmission # and possible vehicles they are in. I'll put that up in an excel format tomorrow.

What I'm hoping to find is the WC model with the proper shaft length and the S10 tailhouse. I don't want to cut the tunnel.
 
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