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Discussion Starter #1
this is my first post..... my brother gave me his 74 alfa spider on a promise I give it the TLC it needs...aside from an oil leak coming from some where near the front pulley it is mechanicaly sound...the floor pan's however are a rusted mess...my only option is welding in new ones.....however i cant get past step one which is removing the front seats from the rails...how the heck do you get them to slide off? I can get it to move to its most forward position but no further. any advise would be most appreciated.




 

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You should be able to slide it to the most forward position and get to two screws (one per rail). Then slide it back and get to two screws in the front (one per rail).
 

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There's 4 phillips head screws, one on each corner of the tracks. Pulled one off a parts car, one screw came out with screw driver, 2 came out with needle nose vice grips, one I had to drill out...have fun
PS..While you have the seats out, check the seat pans themselves, for rust
Paul
89 Grad
 

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Suggestion: I am skipping a few months ahead in your project, but when you replace the seats consider replacing those Phillips-head bolts with Allen-head bolts. I found that I chewed up the Phillips heads when I removed my seats (gee, they'd only been there for -at least- 20 years) and I wanted something easier for next time because there is always a next time.

On my 71 I found that the Allen heads were just a little too big for the head to seat properly, so I put them in a power drill and ground their circumference down a little. then I gave them coat of paint to protect the ground down area, and some anti-seize.

FWIW
 

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If memory serves me correctly, the phillips head screws are the ones that secure the tracks to the seat pans. There should not be phillips head screws holding the tracks to the floor, at least not on the S3 models (unless some PO has made a switcheroo).

The ones that secure the tracks to the floor pan should be allen head bolts.

In addition, there are two different styles of "stops" used under the floor bolts. I think the longer type of stop (with a "hump") goes under one of the front bolts, and the shorter style stop fits under a rear bolt (see pictures below).

The bolts can be quite difficult to remove, especially if they are rusted. I recommend soaking them in a penetrating oil overnight before you work on them.

The rear floor bolts have to be removed first, and you won't have much room to get your allen wrench to them (or much of a radius in which to turn them). I tried with a standard allen head wrench first, and it bent. Then I bought an allen wrench with a long handle and put a small pipe around it (to give it more lateral strength) and was just able to get them loose (with lots of sweat and bad words). You might have better luck if you apply a little heat with a mini torch first. Last resort, drill off (or cut off with a dremel) the rear bolt heads so you can remove the stop(s) and slide the seat way back to attack the front bolts (in the same manner).

Good luck,
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Great info guys....starting with the penetrating oil for the next day or so....found a mixture of phillip screw heads and allen key heads on my set up? Once removed i can post pictures of my rusted pan....looks pretty bad...
I Appreciate the help...
 

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I hate the phillips bolts. I had to drill one out on my driver's side to remove the seat. I'd recommend that you use Anti-Seize for reinstallation.
 

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FWIW, I have also had success freeing seized screws and bolts with an impact driver just like the one shown lying on the floor in the 4th picture of Bob's excellent thread.
This is exactly what i had to do in my '81. my neighbor loaned me his and the next day i went to HF and got my own with 6 bits for a grand total of about 5 dollars. greatest tool i never knew existed until that day.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
an excuse to buy a new tool.....you dont have to convince me...
Three of the four screws came out easy....the fourth is fighting me....i will see if my local oreileys has one..
 

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10 MM metric allens should be holding the tracks down as stated by Norseman50. Just a suggestion. If you have a great deal of rust, you may have to drill the heads off to remove the seat tracks. Then drill out the old bolt bodies and retap the anchor in the floor. Do yourself a favor and retap to SAE standard and replace the bolts with stainless steel SAE standard. You or someone else in the future will thank you for this conversion.
 

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If you get bits to drill out a screw you should go with the good stuff from home depot or lowes. I bought some carbide bits from HF and the broke on aluminum. Then I went to home depot and bought the same size bit for 1 as I did for 5 at HF and it hasn't failed yet.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
2 days of wd40 and the seat bolts came out with out much of a strugle. Only had to drill out one screw...looks like i have a little rust issue with the pan....I will post a future thread after i find some replacement sheet metal..




 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Just an update.....purchsed two front floor pans from wolf steel for my 74 spider..... from summit racing i purchased a trunk floor pan from a pontiac as doner sheet metal for the rest of the alfa floor.....welded in the front and rear pans....treated the metal with por 15 inside of the car....then covered with eastwood sound/heat barrier....total cost of material $650.00







 

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Nice. Any tips on the welding are apriciated (sp?). I now have a Flux core that I can't seem to get the welds right with. Trust me. It is user error...
 

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Awesome!

Hi Imajeepguy,

Love your work. Thanks for sharing. Great photos too. Totally agree with cutting out the rust, welding in replacement panels, treatment with POR-15 black, and sound/heat insulation. Your brother gave the Spider to the right guy!

Regards,
 

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The passenger seat in my S2 will not go all the way back. I can remove the rear screws but can't gain access to the front. I'm not sure what's stopping the seat from going back but it must be an obstruction in the track. Any hints as to how to get to the front screws?
 

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The passenger seat in my S2 will not go all the way back. I can remove the rear screws but can't gain access to the front. I'm not sure what's stopping the seat from going back but it must be an obstruction in the track. Any hints as to how to get to the front screws?
Is the seat pan solid? Not perforated? One of mine was and after removing the seat cushion I could see that the pan itself was blocking seat movement.

If that's not the problem, spray some lube/grease in the accessible parts of the track and then try working the seat back and forth.

Good luck.
 
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