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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK, so last Wednesday at the monthly Alfisti gathering Costas shows up- no one has seen him in more than a year. We ask, "Costas, where ya been, what's up?" and he says, "I have a '78 Alfetta on a trailer that's going to the crusher this Saturday- or it could go to someone here for four hundred dollars. Either way, it's leaving the front yard Saturday- to certain doom, or- well, gentlemen- it's up to one of you."
It's now in my garage.:)
And I gotta say, my wife is most amazing. When I came home and told her it was coming, she rolled her eyes and said "so this means I'm kicked out of the garage?" and I said, "umm, yes?" and she glared at me. But when the Alfetta showed up this morning she softened like butter in the Alabama sun. We rolled it off the trailer and pushed it in the garage (in her spot) and after the paperwork was signed with Costas- together my gal and I spent all **** day working on it. She cleaned every inch of that old Alfa while I worked the corrosion control issues. After nine hours of exhausting labor I looked at her and said, "so, it is kinda neat looking, huh?" and she responded, "yeah. It's kinda cool."
God, I love this woman.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
It's Alive!

The yellow spotted dog is barking! After changing the oil, removing and cleaning out the fuel tank and replacing some dry rotted fuel hoses, flushing out the entire fuel system, cleaning and adjusting the Webers, replacing the coolant, and flushing and bleeding the brakes- the freshly painted wheels with new Falkens went back on and down off the jackstands she came. Rolled her back a few feet, spark plugs out and onto fifth gear. My wife, son and I pushed her forward to break the engine loose, then had to figure out where the plug wires go, as the distributor cap was not wired up- (THANKS AFABB, an invaluable source once again). My wife dremeled the crank pulley rust off while I rocked the car around until we found the "P" mark, and I wired her up. Time to start. After much coaxing with gumout used as a starter fluid/cleaner sprayed into the horns as my wife cranked her over- in a cacophony of backfire belches and occasional spits of flame through those beautiful air horns...SHE'S RUNNING!. Turn the key now and she fires up instantly and idles smoothly. Tap the accelerator though and return to idle is way too high (3,000 rpm), so still some tweaking to do, but we are thrilled. Fuel pressure gauge bought at the local auto parts store confirms the PO had installed a low pressure fuel pump, reads a perfect 3.5 psi for the Webers. Flushed the engine with Gunk add added a fuel system cleaner to help heal the Webers from their years of neglect. On to the next phase!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks all, will do. Fetta 78 from looking at your thread looks like you are having fun yourself! If you want to lower her I can assist, just went through it with my Milano. Steep learning curve but once you break it it's OK. Major driveability disadvantage though, so before you lower it, look at the distance under the car between the pan and the ground, and decide if you can live with lower. There's not much trade space and scrapes are inevitable if you lower her.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Umm, lessee, trade you my dual Webers with air horns for spica, hmm, umm, let me think....
NO!
:p
And I wasn't trying to discourage you from lowering, just wanted you to be aware...I lowered my Milano and must take precautions now when driving it that I never had to think about prior to doing so, but as Clint once said, "a man's gotta know his limitations"....actually doing it - it's really not that bad, I've stumbled upon an adjustment method that is actually easy...once you get everything dissasembled and those @#$%^ torsion bars free from the frame. That's the bugger bear. PM me if ya wanna try it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Update: installed new brake master cylinder (NOTE see the picture, had a cap disentegrate, using a temp blue cap, anyone have one available?) installed new rubber brake hoses (waiting on the rear one- I'm in a backorder holding pattern). Also installed a new clutch master and slave cylinders ( I have a working clutch now!) and man, whatta pain in the ars&* that was! No way to get a 13mm wrench on the back side of the slave cylinder mounted to the transaxle so had to go with a second jam nut to secure her. Also replaced the dry rotted upper control arm bushings and man, whatta pain in the ars&* that was too! Who in the Sam Hill designed this thing? Obviously someone not concerned about ever replacing things! Twisted off the bleed valve inside the left front caliper :( but had a chance at salvaging the assembly using an extraction tool- then the extraction tool snapped off inside the caliper, sealing its fate :mad: Ah well, International has remans in stock for $100, so I guess I'm lucky there...also painted the BWAs and installed the center emblems. Demodded the air conditioning hose from the engine bay.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks Mark- every time I'd get discouraged all I needed to do was rub my lucky horseshoe :eek: No fuel pressure worries- dual Webers installed :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
hmmm...need advice

OK, I have good brakes with new rubber hoses, clean fuel and a running car, BUT-
the clutch. I replaced the master and slave cylinders and hose, bled it out, and everything is 'working'- meaning, when the pedal is depressed, good resistance is felt, and the clutch fork at the transaxle is being deflected about 3/4 of full travel by the slave cylinder. However, the car acts as if there is no clutch operating at all. I get grinding when I attempt to put it in any gear at engine idle. I placed the car in reverse, clutch fully depressed, and bumped the starter and sure enough the car moved with the bump, so it appears the clutch is frozen to the pressure plate? How can that be if the clutch fork has good deflection when the pedal is pressed?
Any advice is greatly appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Rats. No dice. Started her up in first gear, clutch in, lurched forward and proceeded to drive about a mile and a half through my neighborhood- with the clutch in. Tried rapid throttle blips up to about 4,000 rpm, and pumping the clutch pedal numerous times. It did not break free. Back up on jackstands, I looked underneath and saw no access to the clutch to pry it from the pressure plate with a tool. Am I giving up too soon, does it take several attempts and several miles of driving to break a frozen clutch loose-or is time to drop the transaxle and take the clutch assembly out?
I fear the latter.
I sense dirty fingernails for months.
 

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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
At this point I'll try anything, broomstick it is! I will also continue to try repeated lurching starts once I get the CV joints cleaned, repacked, and new boots installed. They need immediate attention before I drive her again. Anyone know of a source for new CV joints? So far all I see available from the usual sources are the boots...What does everyone out there do if a CV joint is unserviceable?
Also, look at what my wife found when she drilled out the rivets in the front wheel well fender panel:eek: One ounce shy of two pounds of dirt, leaves, and sticks. What is even more amazing is that there was only minor surface rust in there. If you have not done so, remove these panels and replace the rivets with screws!
We found the drain hose inside, but where is the drain hose outlet?
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Thanks but sadly, no heat soup for me. The clutch being back at the rear of the car on the transaxle means no such assistance for me. Found the drain line hole, it was neatly sealed with mud paste. Also, the drain line itself was completely sealed shut with mud- must have been sealed enough to not allow water into the compartment, perhaps explaining the lack of serious rust behind there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Frozen clutch no more!

Completed the repack and reboot of the axles and took her back out on the street- four jerky starts in gear later she broke loose! Thanks all for the advice. Drives nicely, no clunks, no bumps, no thumps. Pressure washed the engine bay and wheel wells, and replaced the interior- now it's on to the body work!
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 · (Edited)
"cosmetics"-Italian for "rust"?

Remove the chrome trim anywhere you see any indication of rust seeping out from underneath. In the picture below, the black spot was our initial shot of spray rust converter, hoping to then just mask off the window trim and wing vent for paint. No way. After removing the windows and trim this is what we found. Seems the factory placed strips of plastic film over the seams before pressing the chrome trim strips into place to prevent rust. Bad call. It had the opposite effect, trapping moisture instead. Everywhere I look, if it's metal to metal, the rust is minimal or nonexistent. If the plastic film is there, it's a rust-o-rama.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Thanks- and I agree, I got lucky on the start up and running. Although, in addiition to my numerous labor hours since bringing her home, I have spent about $1,600 renewing the brakes, clutch cylinders, fuel system, CV joints, tires, etc. The rear window seal alone was $240 shipped in from England. I must confess, if the car had Spica when I looked at it I probably would have not have bought it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
DOH! Of course, you mean, for your personal reserve, and not for sale. Please agree so I won't feel bad. Repeat after me: "Correct, the items I just mentioned are not for sale. I just wanted to brag a bit about having these in case I need them someday."
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
My wish list

All,
Thanks so much for your advice and assistance with a spare part or two to help me with this restoration. As I look around inside the car here's what I would like to obtain from any of you out there who may have these in 'good' shape:

-both left and right upper door post interior lights (both of mine are there but have crumbled apart in my hand)
-an original shift knob in restorable condition (mine is missing)
-the "clear" plastic cover for the fuse box (mine is broken, crazed, and has a melted spot)
-the three original horn button covers (these were completely missing)
-center console hazard and rear window defog switches (mine are present but severely faded and crazed)
-any period correct radio that would have come with the car, working or not (prefer not working to keep the cost low as I'll never repair it anyway- it will be a decorative hole plug)
-original hood release handle (mine was broken)
-steering wheel retaining nut (missing) (I think fetta78 may be hooking me up)
I will gladly pay you a reasonable price and shipping for any of the above in decent condition.

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
fetta78 received the wheel nut today, thanks! I feel compelled to offer a token payment of a local delicacy, perhaps-
Do you like Jack Daniels?
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
Free to a good home and need something else...

This came with the car in a box of stuff, looks like the AC pump? AC system's all removed from my car. Up for grabs, you pay shipping as it must weigh 15 pounds. Condition unknown other than it turns freely at the pulley. Also, I'm in need of a driver's door window rear channel bracket, see the picture of my one good one below as well- I don't need the rubber, just the metal piece-willing to pay for it of course, thanks!
 

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