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if i recall I used the slightest dab on the square copper areas (roughly where my green circles are in above photo)
plus I think on the plastic pushers (they all lean against that centre plastic column thing)
just make sure it all operates smoothly as you push the buttons.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
if i recall I used the slightest dab on the square copper areas (roughly where my green circles are in above photo)
plus I think on the plastic pushers (they all lean against that centre plastic column thing)
just make sure it all operates smoothly as you push the buttons.
Almost there. All is cleaned and lubricated although I haven't found a source for small quantities of copper grease. Here are the continuity results however I used the up and down as one would look at the switch installed in the car.
There is continuity between pins 1 & 8, 1 & 4 and 4 & 8 (no buttons pressed)

Between 1 & 8: if you press DOWN button, continuity is broken. UP button has no effect.
Between 1 & 4: press either UP or DOWN button, continuity is broken
Between 8 & 4: press UP button, continuity is broken. DOWN button has no effect.

the right side of your sketch:
Continuity between 3 & 7, 7 & 6 and 3 & 6 (no buttons pressed)

Between 3 & 7: press DOWN button, continuity broken. UP no effect
Between 3 & 6: press either UP or DOWN, continuity broken
Between 7 & 6: press UP button, continuity is broken. DOWN has no effect.

other pins:
2 & 3 and 1 & 5: continuity when you press DOWN
2 & 6 continuity when you press UP ... HAVE NOT BEEN ABLE TO GET CONTINUITY BETWEEN 4 AND 5

Any thoughts on pins 4 and 5
 

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HAVE NOT BEEN ABLE TO GET CONTINUITY BETWEEN 4 AND 5
Any thoughts on pins 4 and 5
yep, that's your problem right there, those 2 contacts.
you are looking the switch exactly opposite to me hence your DOWN is my UP, and my 2 & 6 is your 4 & 5 ....all upside down so to speak;)

But no matter, tests are all valid except the '4 & 5 test', which I call DOWN, but on your test will be UP as in reality you are testing 2 & 6
(and that is where you have the initial problem, with the UP button)

when you press the button the short copper finger (pencil pointing to it) is likely not contacting, so no power flowing through those 2 contacts
pin 4 and 5.jpg

you need to bend that short copper finger it a little to make proper contact.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
yep, that's your problem right there, those 2 contacts.
you are looking the switch exactly opposite to me hence your DOWN is my UP, and my 2 & 6 is your 4 & 5 ....all upside down so to speak;)

But no matter, tests are all valid except the '4 & 5 test', which I call DOWN, but on your test will be UP as in reality you are testing 2 & 6
(and that is where you have the initial problem, with the UP button)

when you press the button the short copper finger (pencil pointing to it) is likely not contacting, so no power flowing through those 2 contacts
View attachment 1613963

you need to bend that short copper finger it a little to make proper contact.
Thanks ... should be an easy fix. Will advise
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Got it Dom!! Thanks so much. It's all closed up but didn't get the copper grease. Buttons move up and down freely and it lives in our garage 365 so not concerned about moisture.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
yep, that's your problem right there, those 2 contacts.
you are looking the switch exactly opposite to me hence your DOWN is my UP, and my 2 & 6 is your 4 & 5 ....all upside down so to speak;)

But no matter, tests are all valid except the '4 & 5 test', which I call DOWN, but on your test will be UP as in reality you are testing 2 & 6
(and that is where you have the initial problem, with the UP button)

when you press the button the short copper finger (pencil pointing to it) is likely not contacting, so no power flowing through those 2 contacts
View attachment 1613963

you need to bend that short copper finger it a little to make proper contact.
Since I have the console switches out, would you have a similar diagram of the emergency flasher switch for testing purposes. I'm sure the flasher switch can use a cleaning as well.
 

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I do have a spare hazard switch somewher, but tbh...the hazard flasher gets hardly used and I have never heard of them going bad.
I wouldn't bother as long as it is working....you can get the switches out easily by pushing them out from the back thru the ashtray opening.

you can tell which switches get used most, the little icons get rubbed away...like the window UP/DOWN arrows;)
 

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Discussion Starter #28
I do have a spare hazard switch somewher, but tbh...the hazard flasher gets hardly used and I have never heard of them going bad.
I wouldn't bother as long as it is working....you can get the switches out easily by pushing them out from the back thru the ashtray opening.

you can tell which switches get used most, the little icons get rubbed away...like the window UP/DOWN arrows;)
The flasher switch does work and it does not get much use however from time to time I've had a passenger accidentally knock the switch moving it part of the way down and results in a blown fuse. I have plenty of fuses but since I had the switch out I thought it would be wise to clean it up and check the contacts.That fuse also knocks out the turn signals.PIA
 

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I checked the hazard switch.
With hazard switch switched off (top button pressed in) there is no continuity between any of the 4 pins at the back, with hazard switch on (lower button pressed in), there is !
That is simple enough!
 

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Discussion Starter #30
I checked the hazard switch.
With hazard switch switched off (top button pressed in) there is no continuity between any of the 4 pins at the back, with hazard switch on (lower button pressed in), there is !
That is simple enough!
Thanks ... appreciate the help
 
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