Would anyone have a wiring diagram of the power window wiring harness?
Thanks but I have those diagrams but don't know where the wires go on the harness connector. I ran into a headscratcher. Prior to removing the switch all buttons on the switch worked however the passenger side up would stick. I removed the unit and was able to free the button up so that problem is fixed. Reinstalled and all is good until I press the up button on driver’s side .... nothing. So I took the switch out and tested for continuity with all four buttons... all are making contact. Subsequently after I plugged the switch into the harness outlet I saw that one of the wires had pulled out of the harness outlet so I reattached it and now the passenger up works also. That's where I am right now. The copper fingers appear to be making contact on all four buttons when pushed down.I'm starting to think something is wrong with the harness connection. The problem is that for some reason that particular harness is very short and difficult to access from the backside. Is there a way to test connectivity in the harness connections or jump the wires to see if the the windows respond? That's why I was hoping for schematic of the harness outlet? Your thoughts?Jim, I can't remember if I sent you the new S4 wiring diagram in color from Jim? If you want it let me know.
In the meanwhile, this is the page from the old alfa manual concerning the windows.
(plus a page with color code key)
That helps ... from where would you recommend pulling power?you have then much the same problem as this guy....his switch tested out ok, but in the end it was the switch:
Question about electric window switch
It could be one of the the wires that go into the doors through those accordian rubber tubes is split/splitting..
Try operating the switch and wiggling that rubber....if it suddenly works, that's where the problem lies.
Each window motor has only two wires:
the driver's side has a solid yellow and a yellow/black, one wire is for UP one for DOWN (can't remember which is which, doesn't really matter)
So to test wiring, just pull off the big square block off the back of the window switch and apply power into the connector hole with a probe where one of those wires are clipped in.
(passenger side has solid green and a green/black if you want to test that too)
I was very optimistic when I read your suggestions above and went tried make the connections this morning ... nothing. I definitely have power which I pulled from the red wire on the block however when I connect the other end to the yellow or yellow/black or green or green/black there is no response. Am I doing something wrong? I might add that electrical is not a strong point for me so any suggestions no matter how simple are appreciated.I usually take power straight from the main electric connector under the hood, left fender, as that is always live.
I made a long length of wire with alligator clips on the ends for such testing.
but you could take power from fuse box or even one of the red wires on the window switch connector itself (which comes from fuse #1)
remember though, where you take power might depend on the ignition being on (windows for instance only powered with ign. on)
or the cigarette lighter (always live)
Hi Tom thanks. I tried it and no response. I'm connecting to the red power wire in the harness plug and then to the yellow. Connected another wire to the yellow black and then to the the metal bar that secures the console to the floor. Is that correct? Earlier the wire that I connected to the power slipped and touched that bar and sparked so I know there's power but there was no ground so it should be OK. I'll check the fuses unless that bar in not grounded.There are two wires to each window motor. To go up you apply power to one and ground the other. To go down you flip power and ground. Just running 12V to the connector isn't enough, you need to ground the other wire.
Driver door are yellow and yellow-black.
Didn’t read that before.Prior to removing the switch all buttons on the switch worked...... Subsequently after I plugged the switch into the harness outlet I saw that one of the wires had pulled out of the harness
All four functions were working prior to removing the switch. Only one wire pulled out (solid green passenger up) but I reconnected and that function works now. As far as I can see no other wire connector pulled out. There was lots of black grease inside the switch (dielectric) I’m told but should all the copper surfaces of the contact fingers be free of that grease?Didn’t read that before.
So everything is working!
Except You must have the wires in the back of the connector plugged in wrongly?
Regrease once all is cleaned up. Just a light smear on the copper areas where the fingers slide on.Many thanks Dom. This looks like a bit of a project but doable especially since it's winter weather here in NJ for the next month or more. Should all the dielectric grease be removed?? I suppose it was put there with a purpose in mind.