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Discussion Starter #1
Would anyone have a wiring diagram of the power window wiring harness?
 

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Jim, I can't remember if I sent you the new S4 wiring diagram in color from Jim? If you want it let me know.

In the meanwhile, this is the page from the old alfa manual concerning the windows.
(plus a page with color code key)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Jim, I can't remember if I sent you the new S4 wiring diagram in color from Jim? If you want it let me know.

In the meanwhile, this is the page from the old alfa manual concerning the windows.
(plus a page with color code key)
Thanks but I have those diagrams but don't know where the wires go on the harness connector. I ran into a headscratcher. Prior to removing the switch all buttons on the switch worked however the passenger side up would stick. I removed the unit and was able to free the button up so that problem is fixed. Reinstalled and all is good until I press the up button on driver’s side .... nothing. So I took the switch out and tested for continuity with all four buttons... all are making contact. Subsequently after I plugged the switch into the harness outlet I saw that one of the wires had pulled out of the harness outlet so I reattached it and now the passenger up works also. That's where I am right now. The copper fingers appear to be making contact on all four buttons when pushed down.I'm starting to think something is wrong with the harness connection. The problem is that for some reason that particular harness is very short and difficult to access from the backside. Is there a way to test connectivity in the harness connections or jump the wires to see if the the windows respond? That's why I was hoping for schematic of the harness outlet? Your thoughts?
 

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you have then much the same problem as this guy....his switch tested out ok, but in the end it was the switch:
Question about electric window switch

It could be one of the the wires that go into the doors through those accordian rubber tubes is split/splitting..
Try operating the switch and wiggling that rubber....if it suddenly works, that's where the problem lies.

Each window motor has only two wires:
the driver's side has a solid yellow and a yellow/black, one wire is for UP one for DOWN (can't remember which is which, doesn't really matter)
So to test wiring, just pull off the big square block off the back of the window switch and apply power into the connector hole with a probe where one of those wires are clipped in.
(passenger side has solid green and a green/black if you want to test that too)
 

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Discussion Starter #5
you have then much the same problem as this guy....his switch tested out ok, but in the end it was the switch:
Question about electric window switch

It could be one of the the wires that go into the doors through those accordian rubber tubes is split/splitting..
Try operating the switch and wiggling that rubber....if it suddenly works, that's where the problem lies.

Each window motor has only two wires:
the driver's side has a solid yellow and a yellow/black, one wire is for UP one for DOWN (can't remember which is which, doesn't really matter)
So to test wiring, just pull off the big square block off the back of the window switch and apply power into the connector hole with a probe where one of those wires are clipped in.
(passenger side has solid green and a green/black if you want to test that too)
That helps ... from where would you recommend pulling power?
 

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I usually take power straight from the main electric connector under the hood, left fender, as that is always live.
I made a long length of wire with alligator clips on the ends for such testing.

but you could take power from fuse box or even one of the red wires on the window switch connector itself (which comes from fuse #1)
remember though, where you take power might depend on the ignition being on (windows for instance only powered with ign. on)
or the cigarette lighter (always live)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I usually take power straight from the main electric connector under the hood, left fender, as that is always live.
I made a long length of wire with alligator clips on the ends for such testing.

but you could take power from fuse box or even one of the red wires on the window switch connector itself (which comes from fuse #1)
remember though, where you take power might depend on the ignition being on (windows for instance only powered with ign. on)
or the cigarette lighter (always live)
I was very optimistic when I read your suggestions above and went tried make the connections this morning ... nothing. I definitely have power which I pulled from the red wire on the block however when I connect the other end to the yellow or yellow/black or green or green/black there is no response. Am I doing something wrong? I might add that electrical is not a strong point for me so any suggestions no matter how simple are appreciated.
 

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not sure what to suggest (I am no sparkey either!)
...I have never tried it at the switch like that, but I have tried power straight to the window connector inside the door, and it works...power to one wire makes it go up, to the other makes it go down (the motor bolted to the door must be the ground)
...IGN on of course

so at that big white block you jumped a red to one of the colored wires, and that did nothing, neither UP/DOWN left nor right.....yet if you reconnect the switch, it works (apart from Driver's side UP)...is that correct?
maybe you have to also ground the blacks, when the switch is disconnected? (the ground wires come thru the window relay, fuse box, 4th relay from left)
 

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There are two wires to each window motor. To go up you apply power to one and ground the other. To go down you flip power and ground. Just running 12V to the connector isn't enough, you need to ground the other wire.

Driver door are yellow and yellow-black.
 

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/\/\
that sounds good
Thinking about it, that's likely what I did at the connector inside the door and just forgot what I did (wouldn't be the first time!)
 

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Discussion Starter #11
There are two wires to each window motor. To go up you apply power to one and ground the other. To go down you flip power and ground. Just running 12V to the connector isn't enough, you need to ground the other wire.

Driver door are yellow and yellow-black.
Hi Tom thanks. I tried it and no response. I'm connecting to the red power wire in the harness plug and then to the yellow. Connected another wire to the yellow black and then to the the metal bar that secures the console to the floor. Is that correct? Earlier the wire that I connected to the power slipped and touched that bar and sparked so I know there's power but there was no ground so it should be OK. I'll check the fuses unless that bar in not grounded.
 

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Prior to removing the switch all buttons on the switch worked...... Subsequently after I plugged the switch into the harness outlet I saw that one of the wires had pulled out of the harness
Didn’t read that before.
So everything is theoretically working!

Except, You must have the wires in the back of the connector plugged in wrongly?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Didn’t read that before.
So everything is working!

Except You must have the wires in the back of the connector plugged in wrongly?
All four functions were working prior to removing the switch. Only one wire pulled out (solid green passenger up) but I reconnected and that function works now. As far as I can see no other wire connector pulled out. There was lots of black grease inside the switch (dielectric) I’m told but should all the copper surfaces of the contact fingers be free of that grease?
 

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Dielectric (silicone) is strictly speaking non conductive, but as long as the copper fingers are making good contact it should work.
I used copper grease (which is conductive) on the square copper areas where the fingers rub up and down as the buttons are pressed.

what did the fingers in your switch look like?
The short ones can wear so bad they are almost worn through...look here where my pencil is pointing, the copper finger has a slit worn almost clear through, about to break off.

switch3.jpg

using a blob of solder to mend those slits
solder.JPG

I used a dremel with a fine grade polishing scourer to polish all the copper areas.
schalter.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Making some progress. I must have blown the 30 amp fuse when the power wire sparked on the metal anchor bar in the console. Windows are operational just need to get the switch functional. Here are some photos ... do the contacts need to be cleaned? Also is there a good way to test the switch with a multi meter?
 

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that switch is trouble waiting to happen (but saveable) and yes it needs a good clean.

I mentioned above that the short copper fingers are prone to burning through....well, all 4 short copper fingers on your switch have started....my red arrow points to a hole developing and the green circle to a burn mark.
switch.jpeg
Same goes for the other side.

I would put a blob of solder over those holes on the 4 small copper fingers, before they are eaten through and the switch becomes useless.

On a spare working window switch in front of me the ohms/continuity testing is as such (you probably don't need half this info, but here goes...
oh, and don't ask me what it all means either;)

we are looking at the switch from the back, arrows pointing up/down (not side to side;)) and the slit in the casing is on the left.
window switch pins.jpg

I have an meter than buzzes if there is continuity (ie the 2 probes held together)
so,
taking the left side first:
there is continuity between pins 1 & 8, 1 & 4 and 4 & 8 (no buttons pressed)

Between 1 & 8: if you press UP button, continuity is broken. DOWN button has no effect.
Between 1 & 4: press either UP or DOWN button, continuity is broken
Between 8 & 4: press DOWN button, continuity is broken. UP button has no effect.

the right side:
Continuity between 3 & 7, 7 & 6 and 3 & 6 (no buttons pressed)

Between 3 & 7: press UP button, continuity broken. DOWN no effect
Between 3 & 6: press either UP or DOWN, continuity broken
Between 7 & 6: press DOWN button, continuity is broken. UP has no effect.

other pins:
2 & 3 and 1 & 5: continuity when you press UP
2 & 6 and 4 & 5: continuity when you press DOWN

see how your swicht differs, if at all.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Many thanks Dom. This looks like a bit of a project but doable especially since it's winter weather here in NJ for the next month or more. Should all the dielectric grease be removed?? I suppose it was put there with a purpose in mind.
 

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Many thanks Dom. This looks like a bit of a project but doable especially since it's winter weather here in NJ for the next month or more. Should all the dielectric grease be removed?? I suppose it was put there with a purpose in mind.
Regrease once all is cleaned up. Just a light smear on the copper areas where the fingers slide on.
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
OK ... cleaned the switch and applied solder to the copper fingers with the holes. So far so good. I suspect that the switch has to be fully assembled to test for continuity but before I close it up I want to apply the dielectric grease which I'll pick up tomorrow. On which parts do you recommend applying the grease? Or is the copper grease recommended for the copper components?
 
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