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Discussion Starter #1
Hi All,

I posted a previous thread with regards to clutch replacement on my S4 and have followed your advise. I'm at the point where the following has been done:
- all the bolts that bolt the gearbox to the engine bellhousing have been removed.
- clutch master to slave hose has been disconnected.
- removed bottom plate which covers bottom of flywheel - this is the plate that is bolted to the gearbox by 4 10mm bolts.
- disconnected speedometer cable and electrical connector - think this might be for reverse lights.
- disconnected the driveshaft
- placed a transmission jack under the gearbox to support the weight.
- used 6' clamps to hold the engine in the tilted position towards to back of the car.

My question is I'm trying to slide the gearbox back and I've only been able to move it about 1/4" with lots of jittering of the gearbox up and down side to side and playing with the transmission jack raising and lowering ever so slightly, do I continue to jitter it around while pulling it back? It doesn't seem to be hitting anything, just seems to be stuck.

Thanks
Bob
 

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Uncoupling the exhaust will allow for some more engine tilt.
Did you take the console apart to remove the shift lever from the gearbox or were you gonna try it from underneath with things tipped back?
Either way, the lever has to go, but doing it from topside also allows removal of the metal tower piece on the top of the tunnel which gives some more room yet.

Silly question, but have you removed the starter motor?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hi,

Yes the exhaust is removed, the starter is removed and the gear shifter and console have all been removed.

Bob
 

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The gearbox's input shaft may be binding slightly in the clutch disc. You many have to wiggle it a bit until that's clear. That same issue also makes re-installing the gearbox so much fun.
 

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Bob,

You really mean the bolts and nuts attaching the bell housing to the engine. Right?. When you pull backward on the tranny, does it just stop moving, or hit something solid? (like a "clunk"). If so, there may be one last fastener that has not been removed.

...- all the bolts that bolt the gearbox to the engine bellhousing have been removed....
 

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Discussion Starter #7
No there isn't a clunk, I did remove to 2 top bolt/nut combinations, it just seems to be stuck, I think a little more pulling is whats required based on Kilgore's response.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Well the gearbox is out, thanks a lot, it took more giggling and wiggling than I thought it would.

Thanks for everyone's input.

Bob
 

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Hi Bob glad to hear you got it out.
It is a bit harder to get back in but not much .

I removed the four studs and put in inserts for bolts . I hope this will make
removal and replacement much easier . But only time will tell . My motor
is still in bits right now .

Here is a link to what I did .
Building-200hp-twin-spark-Stud-Replacement
 

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Discussion Starter #10
H David,

Are like helicoils?

I installed them on my 1150 where the exhaust bolts to the head, it was real easy to install and lasted as this was a weak point on the bike.

Bob
 

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Hi Bob,

I just sent the following to another Canadian BBer so I thought I would pass it along to you also . And anyone else how is interested.

I got the inserts from Fastenal here in Toronto.

Here is a link to the ones I got.

M8-1.25 EZ-LOK-Metric 303S/S Int/Ext Thread Insert for Metal | Fastenal

I think I paid the same as the web site .If not it was close.

The down side is that you have to buy 5 .

I used the stainless steal ones but I think the plain steal would be all right.

I went with the metric inside imperial outside .A bit cheaper and I had the right drill and tap.

It was fairly easy to do with the motor out but I don't see that it would be much harder with the motor

in the car . If that is what you plan to do. I used all the drill sizes between the original and the final size.

That way the holes can't get messed up.

I still need to get a set of bolts for the project. I will update you when I get them.

I will make a new thread just for this project with photos .
 

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those 4 long stud make it eayer to instale the tranny.. i think you just made it harder.. once you slip the tranny onto the stud, you can easyly twist the output shaft on the rear of hte tranny to set the teeth on the input shaft to the clutch disk, with not having to support the tranny with a jack/ extra freind.the 4 long studes act as a guide to stuff the tranny back onto the motor..you know those alfa romeo designers were/ are pretty smart guys,, remember,these motors are close to racing motors, as you could get back in the day.. also ferrari motors have simalar long studs to locate there parts on back to the motor.
 

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Hello Bianchi1,

I am a big believer that the world is not black and white but rather shades of gray . So normally I stay away from absolutes .

In this case I feel I must be definitive .YOU are wrong ! And that is that!

And I quote from the World Wide Web found in the hallowed pages of www.spruellmotorsport.com

DETAILS: Fits all 101, 105/115 engines. Machine screws instead of studs greatly facilitate engine or gearbox removal. Without the long rear block studs R & R engine can be accomplished without removing the gearbox along with it. Without the long rear studs, gearbox R & R is no longer a struggle. For either operation, the conversion to machine screws saves an immense amount of time and effort. It is truly gratifying being able to unhitch the engine from the gearbox and hoist out the engine by itself. It is a blessing to be able to lay under the car on jack stands at the track and pull a gearbox out without the impediment of the long studs. The replacement machine screws require a 10mm socket.
You may disagree with me but are you saying Paul Spruell is wrong? Tut-Tut Sir . Tut-Tut
 

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For those who may need to pull/install an engine/gearbox from the same car a few times a year, it is a fine product. For those who perform the same task once every decade or two, it's pointless.

IMHO, of course.
 

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never saw the paul sprull site on this,, no yelling please..but i did buy paul sprull motor mounts:)
 

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I agree with you David. I have long bolts in mine. I would not bo back to Studs. I have swapped out and engine, leaving the gearbox in the car as well as the more common gearbox swap.
 
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