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Discussion Starter #1
Of the 12 switches (buttons) the first four are blanked, but I don't know if they were ever used for anything. Any ideas?

Reading Left to Right:
The first four switches (buttons) are blank.
The next four operate the power windows.
The next two are for the hazard lights.
The last two are for a heated rear window, if installed.
 

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Sounds like you're missing the fog light switch button which is normally on the immediate left hand side of the light bank. Switches for the power window in the middle, then the hazard/rear window defroster on the far right.
 

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USA Spec Series 4 didn't have anything factory in that spot. But it certainly makes a perfect spot for a custom cruise control.:D


Best Regards,
John M
 

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Discussion Starter #4
John, You've titillated me, again. Would you care to discuss your cruise control? Or, for that matter, your custom selection of switches (buttons)?
 

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Sure thing. Check out this thread for the discussion when I installed the cruise and how the CC switch is assembled. Running out of the house right now...so if any questions...feel free to ask. I'll reply when I get back off a short trip.
http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/showthread.php?t=5026&highlight=cruise+control

Works just like an OEM installation. Has set, resume, accel, decel, on, and off all within those four barrel switches. Essentially, those switches in my car are from left to right, power window bank, hazard/rear defrost bank, and cruise control bank.

Since you enjoyed the cruise and seeing the comment in your signature...you might just enjoy this one too...:D

http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/showthread.php?t=8940&highlight=cruise+control

Best Regards,
John M
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)

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John M said:
USA Spec Series 4 didn't have anything factory in that spot. But it certainly makes a perfect spot for a custom cruise control.:D


Best Regards,
John M
Cruise control? Next thing you'll want is and automatic and traction control in your S4.
 

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Rumor has it that Mr. Duncan is lying awake at night thinking about four wheel drive....
 

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Traction control....automatic...4WD.....what you talk'n bout Willis?:D :D :D

Sounds like you guys are talking about the Honda Pilot we just bought.:D BTW...excellent...EX..CEL....LENT!:D

When I dream of the S4...I dream of in the following order:D
1. more leg room
2. comfortable pedal position
3. 300HP from Alfa V8 at the rear wheels and frame to support it....ok maybe just getting the 225 from the turbo setup I have planned.
4. 6 speed tranny that would never get synchro grind!:D

Best Regards,
John M
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Ok, ok.
I've ordered all the parts for the console switches plus the Audiovox CCS100 Cruise Control. So, as Kramer might say, "John, I'm go'n for it and lov'n every minute.":eek:
 

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Give a yell if you run into difficulty. The audiovox will draw signal directly from the coil negative. So no need for a inductive drive shaft kit. The setup on the switch is one side (two switches) from either a hazard or rear defrost setup to be used for the "on" "off". And the other side from power window to be used as the "set/decel" "resume/accel".

Best Regards,
John M
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks, John.

I got my switches fixed up this week. Now, I have many questions which I hope you'll be able to help out on.

First, I found three wiring "blocks" under the center console:
White - Power Windows
Red - Hazard/ Rear Defog
Yellow - ??????
Do you know what the yellow "block" wires are or go to? I couldn't find it on any wiring diagrams.

I'm hooking up fog lights, so I've put in a pair of Fog buttons next to the two buttons.
I got a new power window switch and I've already disassembled the old one and configured it as you did by retaining two of the buttons and adding a pair for the Reaar Defog.

How/where did you hook up the wires?
Which setup in the instrucions did you use to hook up the servo cable to the throttle body?
Where did you tap into the vacuum line?
What settings did use for the dip switches on the servo?

I've seen the photo you posted for the servo. A couple of closeups of the wiring, vacuum, throttle would be really helpful.

Thanks,
:confused: Mini-John
 

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I want my baby back, baby back, baby back, baby back, baby back
I want my baby back, baby back, baby back, baby back, baby back:D

I will tell you for the sum of ..............ONE HUNDRED DOLLARS:D :D :D

Sorry for the Austin Powers humor!

I think the yellow was for rear fog lights in euro models.

Are you hooking up front fog lights? Where are you putting that switch?

Check out the wiring diagram I have attached. I'll get some pictures of the install tomorrow and share up on the board.

I took suction off one of the intake plenum lines. Just put a T in there...I believe I went off the carbon cannister system's port.

Best Regards,
John M
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Brilliant, John.
Absolutely brilliant.

In answer to your question, I'll be hooking up the fog lights in the front (gotta use the extra buttons since I don't have a hardtop). Where do the fogs go in the back. In the wife's MINI Cooper (new model) they came with the bulbs already in the talight housing. I crossed-wired them over to the brake lights and now when she hits the brakes the rear of the car really lights up.

If Duncan Cruise Control (DCC) works, I may have to do you to baby back ribs when you're back in town again.

One more question/favor as tomorrow, loaded with beers, I will be setting everything for the final hookup and ready for your pics tomorrow.

A photo of your vacuum tee
and
what color coil wire did you connect to?
...I gather you used the blue wire to the coil and dead-ended the gray wire.

Oh, do you remember what dip switch settings you used on the servo?
 

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Note on that wiring diagram.....I may edit it some more. I just swapped the on/off buttons....and will make it more accurate after I inspect mine and get an exact pin layout.

Just remember that if you are planning on wiring in the spot for the rear defrost for fog lights...you are going to have to jump wires from the hazard/defrost block to the hazard switch to allow you to wire the defrost side of the switch for fog lights. Doing this will keep your stock harness intact.

On the rear fogs....I don't think our housings have the bulbs or the spots for the bulbs. I'll have to inspect that sometime.

I'll snap some pictures of the DIP switches, vacuum T, and throttle hookup. You can use either the blue wire to the coil (-) pole. Don't know off the top of my head what color the wire is...but I'll look. Or you can go off the pulse generator grey wire to the servo grey wire for hookup. This would be the prefered way for an automatic. The pulse generator harness is located near the brake booster and the O2 sensor harness running along the firewall vertically.

Keep checking that wiring diagram. I will likely update again and make it more accurate.

Best Regards,
John M
 

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Audiovox instructions...for others interested.

Best Regards,
John M
 

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Will the clock on his instrument console fit an '87? My clock is broken and I like the look of the one in his car.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Okay, I'm now laying out the wires to go to their respective general locations, pending further input by John. Isn't this computer thingy just great.

John said,

Just remember that if you are planning on wiring in the spot for the rear defrost for fog lights...you are going to have to jump wires from the hazard/defrost block to the hazard switch to allow you to wire the defrost side of the switch for fog lights. Doing this will keep your stock harness intact.
Excellent point. I was going to clip the wires on the red wiring block for the Rear Defog push buttons and tie the Fog Light wires into the wiring block and thenconnect the wiring block back in to the switch block. You are right, it does make more sense to keep the wiring block intact just in case the car gets a hardtop some day:rolleyes: .

While trying to determine where I wanted the the switch blocks in the center console and and push buttons within each of the switch blocks I discovered a few things. First, there are two different types of push buttons depending on whether they go on the left or right side of the switch block. The opening for the light to enter the push button is the primary factor. Also, if you're anal and want the "Off" or "On" to be either on the top or bottom of the switch block then the copper strip has to be swapped along with the colored lenses inside the push buttons.
Note: The Fog Light and Hazard push buttons are set to work on the left side of the switch block. The Rear Defog push buttons are set to work on the right side of the switch block.

Everything can be taken apart if you're very careful, patient and take your time. To swap out the colored lenses the black cap has to be removed from the push button-in the same way that the switch block came apart by gently lifting the black cap out of the two plastic detents on the push button and then pulling out on the black cap. To swap out the "On" and "Off" functions, the copper strip has to also be removed/replaced-gently lift the strip where it comes together on the side of the push button and carefully back (slide) it off; it will then easily "press" slide and press together on the other push button.

Left Block:
Left Side = Power Window push buttons for Cruise "Res & Set"
Right Side = Rear Defog push buttons for Cruise "Off & On"

Center Block:
Power Windows

Right Block:
Left Side = Hazard push buttons "Off & On"
Right Side = Fog Lamp push buttons for "Off & On"
 

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I suspect that with a little nail polish you could remove labels from the buttons.

I take it the fog light switch arrived? Hopefully it will work for you... isn't that discoloration weird?
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
Hooligan,

Yes, and thanks.
Nail polish remover might remove the labels, but they work just fine the way they are.
I just removed the square line around the DeFog push button and I've got 3 arrows which, to me, signify the new cruise "On/Off" modes and the old power window button arrows show the cruise "Set/Res"modes.
 
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