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Discussion Starter #1
Hi All,

I just replaced my clutch and at the same time I replaced the clutch pivot pin, bought the pivot pin frm Centerline. I did this because the clutch was slipping and the pedal was about 1 inch lower than the break pedal.

Anyway, I don't see any improvement in the clutch pedal position, still about 1 inch lower than the break pedal.

Before I replaced the clutch pivot pin, with the new clutch in, I would measure about 9mm of the gearbox fork travel when the clutch pedal was pressed.

I still need to measure the fork travel with teh new pivot pin but I'm not really expecting any improvement.

Is there something else that could be wrong?

Thanks,
Bob
 

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But Mad North-Northwest
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Did you set the length of the arm at the MC using the adjuster? There's a spec in the service manual.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Hi,

Yes I did adjust the master arm to the specified 134mm, it was a little out and I did turn the adjustment out about 6 turns. I measured it with a caliper.

Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I checked the clutch peddle, tried to pull it towards me and it didn't move, so I would have to say there is no play, the clevis pin would appear to not have any play.

Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Is there some other reference point that I could check, right now I'm baseing everything relative to the break peddle, is there a distance from the firewall or something like that for the peddle?

When I look in the engine compartment and look at teh distance between the clutch pivot arm and the firwall the arm is pretty much parallel to the firewall and maybe 4-5 mm from it.
 

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1966-2013
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Don't compare to the brake pedal.

If your pivot is new, the pin is new, the clevis is good, the yoke is set properly, the slave cylinder travel is the correct amount and the resevior is filled after being properly bled, then it's better than 95% assurance that its just fine regardless of how it looks.

The brake pedal is independantly adjustable for height via a jackscrew inside its return spring. Nobody ever really messes with it, but in the grander scheme of things it should be set so there's about 1mm of downward free travel at the end of the brake pedal when at rest.

If the adjuster has been set on the long side, the brake pedal will sit higher in general, and conversely if short, it'll sit lower.

The brake vs clutch pedal height, while a very good clue for detecting if the pivot arm is failing if the pedal seems to get lower and lower when released, isn't the be all end all reference for the clutch system.

If all the previous is in correct order and the clutch actually works fine, then don't worry about how it looks next to the brake pedal. A little below, even, a little above..... it's all good as long as the thing works correctly.
 

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I also replaced the clutch MC, pivot arm, slave, hose, etc. and my clutch pedal is lower than the brake pedal. Not a problem with it, everything works great. Don't worry about it.
 

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I just replaced the master brake cylinder, brake booster and master clutch cylinder on my '84 Spider Veloce and I now notice that the clutch and brake pedal are at different heights. Clutch pedal is lower. I have a picture of the interior showing all the pedals before working on the car and it appears to show the pedals are all the same height. I'm not sure what could be different with the exception of the master clutch arm adjustment? What is this measurement of 134mm I see in the earlier part of this thread? I did not do any adjustments since I assumed the setting on the master clutch cylinder were factory set.
 

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What is this measurement of 134mm I see in the earlier part of this thread? I did not do any adjustments since I assumed the setting on the master clutch cylinder were factory set.
its the specific length of the clutch adjuster rod, that you should have checked whilst on the bench.
Its more difficult to measure once its all back on the car, but still possible to check and adjust.
As it mounts on the booster bracket, you should take into account 2mm thickness of the bracket.
Note: the measurement is taken from the back edge of the clevis pin, not the centre point.
Photo is from BB
 

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I ended up adjusting the clutch adjuster rod which raised the pedal a little higher. I was able to do it by removing just the master clutch from the booster. Took a few times to back the clevis pin out and get the clearance correct. I can see the image you posted now for some reason it did not show up on my home computer but my work computer shows it. The values in the image make sense since you don't want the slave cylinder to expand too far and come apart. Guess I'll be turning that adjuster rod back a few turns now and I just added the hydraulic line thinking all was done. Thanks.
 
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