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Discussion Starter #1
I know i said this several times, but I , once again, want to say what a tremendous help everyone on here has been and for putting up with all my questions. Someday I hopeto be the one jerking 8 answer them.

I may have posted this already by respondimg to someone's response to me (wait, did that make since?..lol). If so I apologize. I am new to this site and to this most excellent of cars.

I have an 85 Graduate spider my kids got me for father's day (im 51, and it's midlife crises car..haha). But that's story is for another time.

I will try make this brief.

I flushed out my radiator with distilled water. Then I added a 50/50 mix of distilled water and antifreeze. I tried bleeding out from the top bleeder valve but even after running and driving it for over 15 minutes, I could no get much more than a slight dribble one time to come out. The needle did go over almost all the way to the right, but it did not look like it was overheating not did the overheat light come on. I am not getting any heat from the vents, although the blower seems to work fine. I cannot for the life of me, find the bleeder valve on the water pump people are talking about. I am not sure if it matters, but when I have the radiator cap removed, it don't seem to be circulating. Again, maybe that has to do work 8 the bleeding of it.

I also all getting a very frequent off and on buzzing that what sounds like is coming from behind the passenger seat under the removable shelf panel or the removable side panel.

I think that's the jist of it..for now at least..lol. I have posteda picture of each thing in the hopes someone can assist me. I really am trying to take it for a drive with my granddaughter, and this is all that seems to be holding me up. Thank you everyone in advance for the help.
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But Mad North-Northwest
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Your car doesn't have a bleeder at the water pump. Typically you just bleed at the top outlet. Do you have the heater lever set to hot? It's possible the valve is failed or your heater core is plugged and you're just not getting any flow through there.

Buzzing sound is probably a leaking manifold pressure sensor. Cylindrical thing in your third picture. Do a search and you'll find details.

Intake hose in photo #5 is badly cracked and should be replaced: that'll cause an air leak and bad running. And something is rubbing on your v-belt in photo #4 that you should probably figure out. A lot of the hoses look past their sell-by date, so you may want to add that to the to-do list.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Your car doesn't have a bleeder at the water pump. Typically you just bleed at the top outlet. Do you have the heater lever set to hot? It's possible the valve is failed or your heater core is plugged and you're just not getting any flow through there.

Buzzing sound is probably a leaking manifold pressure sensor. Cylindrical thing in your third picture. Do a search and you'll find details.

Intake hose in photo #5 is badly cracked and should be replaced: that'll cause an air leak and bad running. And something is rubbing on your v-belt in photo #4 that you should probably figure out. A lot of the hoses look past their sell-by date, so you may want to add that to the to-do list.
Thank you for the reply. I am definitely replacing belts and hoses, but I'm trying to first figure out the bleeding issue first.

I am getting air coming through the vents, but just not heater air. I do have it set to heat and I have the dial set to 3. I am not sure about the little green switch with a picture of a fan..lol. I tried it with that set in different positions but it don't seem to change anything. Not really sure what it is supposed to do. How can I tell if my heater core is blocked or if the valve has failed? Can I just remove the heater line by the bleeder valve to see if it's flowing, or can I completely remove the bleeder valve to check flow there? Thanks again. Much appreciated.
 

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Are you sure the heater control cable isn't broken? Maybe bleeder valve clogged? I cant see you driving it for 15 mins and not overheating if coolant not circulating. I may be curious enough to pull a hose and see if the water pump is pumping well.....
 

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But Mad North-Northwest
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I am getting air coming through the vents, but just not heater air. I do have it set to heat and I have the dial set to 3. I am not sure about the little green switch with a picture of a fan..lol. I tried it with that set in different positions but it don't seem to change anything.
Okay, so that rotary dial is your AC blower fan. It's a separate system from the heater.

The heater fan is the toggle switch (off/low/high). If it's not doing anything your fan is probably seized, which is pretty common.

There are two vertical levers. One is heat, and one switches between closed / floor vents / dash vents for the heater system. You need to push the heater lever up all the way to open the heater valve.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Hello everyone....again. Lol.

My 85 Graduate is not blowing heat, but it the blower does work, as air is coming out the vents at a normal amount.

I am not getting coolant to come out the bleeder valve when I loosen it. (I did a radiator flush and need to bleed it). My cap was quite bad looking so I replaced it. Only issues is I couldn't find one that said was the exact one. I did find one for ac romeo that would fit if I kind of wiggled it too make it work. It's tight but I know is not the correct one (I know, I'm not bright for trying it..haha.). Obviously i want the correct one but was trying to bleed the system. Could this be why its not bleeding and why no heat? I will attach a picture of my old cap.

The new cap is part is a Duralast (not at all what I want but tried to find anything to do the job for now) part # 7007. Can anyone tell me what cap I need and if I can get one locally? I'm am in Ft Myers , Florida.

I did notice my hose on my water pump is swelled near the pump. I will post a picture.
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I have a 1985 Graduate Spider 2.0.

Thank you everyone
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Discussion Starter #7
Your car doesn't have a bleeder at the water pump. Typically you just bleed at the top outlet. Do you have the heater lever set to hot? It's possible the valve is failed or your heater core is plugged and you're just not getting any flow through there.

Buzzing sound is probably a leaking manifold pressure sensor. Cylindrical thing in your third picture. Do a search and you'll find details.

Intake hose in photo #5 is badly cracked and should be replaced: that'll cause an air leak and bad running. And something is rubbing on your v-belt in photo #4 that you should probably figure out. A lot of the hoses look past their sell-by date, so you may want to add that to the to-do list.
[/QUi also
Okay, so that rotary dial is your AC blower fan. It's a separate system from the heater.

The heater fan is the toggle switch (off/low/high). If it's not doing anything your fan is probably seized, which is pretty common.

There are two vertical levers. One is heat, and one switches between closed / floor vents / dash vents for the heater system. You need to push the heater lever up all the way to open the heater valve.
Thank you..and thank you for not laughing (at least not on here) for me not knowing..lol.

I had the heater level all the way up, but I'm not sure where I had the level on the right. I will go check that and try again.
Are you sure the heater control cable isn't broken? Maybe bleeder valve clogged? I cant see you driving it for 15 mins and not overheating if coolant not circulating. I may be curious enough to pull a hose and see if the water pump is pumping well.....
Can i take the bleeder valve completely out to check if circulation? And which hose should I remove to see if water pump is pumping? Should I see water circulating in the radiator when i remove the cap?
 

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But Mad North-Northwest
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The heater lever on the left is the only one that matters in this case: it physically opens the coolant valve at the heater core. The lever on the right just opens the vents. If the heater fan is busted that won't do much unless you're at speed.

You won't see flow in the radiator with the cap off, no. I'd think the only way to check flow through the radiator would be to disconnect the hoses and flow test it.

The bleeder valve can be removed, it's just a hollow bolt with a hole in it to allow air to escape. But unless the hole is plugged or something you shouldn't need to fully remove it to get air out.
 

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There is air in the system. Personal I have never had to bleed the air out of the system. I to did a complete flush a couple of times and not have hot air coming through the heater vent. A mechanic told me to run it on the freeway for a half hour and the air will eventually start working its way out. I tried it and it worked.


Ken Smith
 

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There is air in the system. Personal I have never had to bleed the air out of the system. I to did a complete flush a couple of times and not have hot air coming through the heater vent. A mechanic told me to run it on the freeway for a half hour and the air will eventually start working its way out. I tried it and it worked.


Ken Smith
Afterthought did you say that your gauge was pointing on high but the high temp light was not coming on? I guess I would check the gauge to see if it’s working accurately or not before I run it on the freeway. Wouldn’t want to overheat your engine ruin your head.


Ken Smith
 

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Discussion Starter #11
The heater lever on the left is the only one that matters in this case: it physically opens the coolant valve at the heater core. The lever on the right just opens the vents. If the heater fan is busted that won't do much unless you're at speed.

You won't see flow in the radiator with the cap off, no. I'd think the only way to check flow through the radiator would be to disconnect the hoses and flow test it.

The bleeder valve can be removed, it's just a hollow bolt with a hole in it to allow air to escape. But unless the hole is plugged or something you shouldn't need to fully remove it to get air out.
Ok. I'm going to remove the bleeder valve completely. Never know, maybe the hole is clogged. I did post on another new discussion that I did replaced my radiator cap but it is showing its the incorrect one. It's really for an 88 Graduate spider but it states it's not for my 85. I got it to fit but I do know its the incorrect one. I was only trying to make it work to bleed the system. Could this be the issue? I replaced it because the other one is in bad shape. I will post a picture of the old cap. The new one is a Duralast (I know, but it's the only one I could find locally I could make work) part # 7007.

How do I check the heater fan to see if it is actually blowing correctly? And maybe more importantly, how do i check the temperature gauge make sure it's not just faulty? The overheating light has never come on. Please advise. Thank you for all the help.
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Discussion Starter #12
Afterthought did you say that your gauge was pointing on high but the high temp light was not coming on? I guess I would check the gauge to see if it’s working accurately or not before I run it on the freeway. Wouldn’t want to overheat your engine ruin your head.


Ken Smith
Ok..thanks. What about the radiator cap situation? Use the old one or the if i made fit that's not the correct one?. Lol. Ugh
 

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I have see worse caps. You need to have an air tight system. If the new purchase on is not tight it will not work correctly.

My cap is aftermarket parts store. I think it important thing is the LBS rating. My is 13 and work great.


Ken Smith
 

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I have see worse caps.
Yea, but not much worse. That one does look pretty bad! What concerns me about it isn't the rust on top; it's how much brown, rusty deposits are on the black rubber disk that seals against the radiator flange. That suggests that your coolant had a lot of corrosion in it. I know you have since changed the coolant, but, it's possible that corrosion deposits have blocked your heater core or heater valve, which is why it doesn't get hot when the engine is warmed up.

batmn1968 said:
What about the radiator cap situation? Use the old one or the if i made fit that's not the correct one? [/quote}

Without seeing the new cap - an probably feeling how it fits - it's pretty hard to tell you whether it will work or not. Alfa parts suppliers sell the correct caps, but they don't have outlets local to you.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Yea, but not much worse. That one does look pretty bad! What concerns me about it isn't the rust on top; it's how much brown, rusty deposits are on the black rubber disk that seals against the radiator flange. That suggests that your coolant had a lot of corrosion in it. I know you have since changed the coolant, but, it's possible that corrosion deposits have blocked your heater core or heater valve, which is why it doesn't get hot when the engine is warmed up.
Is that a big deal if I care less about heat? I live in HOT Florida..lol.
 

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If you fan is not turning sometimes you can stick a pencil ( or you finger) up there and give it some help. Stand on your head on the passenger side with a flashlight and you can see the fan laying in the bottom of the housing. Turn the fan on and fiddle with it.
 

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Is that a big deal if I care less about heat? I live in HOT Florida..lol.
It's not a big deal at all, as long as the heater is the only thing clogged in the cooling system. But the worry is that if some coolant passages in the engine are clogged, that could lead to localized overheating. Not much you can do at this point except change the coolant and monitor that it remains green.

did notice my hose on my water pump is swelled near the pump.
That looks normal. The bung on the water pump has a larger OD at the end to retain the clamped hose. What you are seeing is the outline of that larger OD. Press it with your finger; I think you will feel that it is solid and not just swollen.
 

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that cap has had it
period

...and the coolant must be a rusty mess as well
(but you have 3 threads going on all at once....confusing to say the least)
 

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Rust in our cooling systems is generally not a good thing. Drain it, rinse it and get 50/50 antifreeze/water in there asap
 

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but you have 3 threads going on all at once....confusing to say the least
The two covering cooling systems are now merged.

Batmn1968: You aren't doing yourself any favors by starting multiple threads on the same topic. People respondering become confused and stop contributing at some point. Please keep thing simple.
 
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