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Here we go! I’m about to do my motor mounts on my 1983 Spider. They are sagging pretty good and it’s time. Got the mounts from Vick Auto, been pre-soaking the nuts with PB Blaster…there’s no reason to put it off. I’ve read all step by step posts and plan to attempt it with out removal of any intake items…wish me luck!
Wheel Tire Vehicle Car Land vehicle
 

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Intake side can be tough to access with the manifold in the way but it's doable. Sometimes you have to joggle the engine side to side to get the old mounts out, and sometimes remove the rubber pad from the steel mount part to gain enough clearance for removal. Prepare to disconnect stuff to let the engine move enough. It's all doable but can take a little checking and peeking to gain access without messing anything else up.
Andrew
 

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I just did mine on my 79. I think splitting the mounts should just be standard advice - it makes the job so quick and easy. As long as you've got a good assortment of wrenches and sockets to tighten all the bolts afterwards, I'd definitely go that route.
 

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Yes, often you cannot get the engine up enough to get the mounts all the way off the studs in the block. Some folks remove those, replace with bolts, but that's something to do when the engine is out of the car, not in the engine bay. Removing the rubber from the steel mount gives you a lot more wiggle room in the V of the crossmember.
Andrew
 

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I have done it without removal but the intake side is tricky and requires long extensions and swivels at times.
Good luck
 
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Great tips! Thank you! I’ll let you know how it goes
On my car I ended up removing the plenum so I could replace all the fuel hoses and injector hoses (while I was there…)
Removing the plenum isn’t bad - take lots of pics. Then you can easily get at the lower mounts. There’s no way I could do it with the plenum on.
Putting the plenum back on and aligning the support bracket holes was difficult but if you read some of my previous posts I enlarged the holes in the bracket and that helped me get the bolts back in. Then it was easy.
One of the posters here was right- I had to rock the motor back and forth until it dropped into the mounts correctly. Leave everything loose until it drops into place.
 

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On my car I ended up removing the plenum so I could replace all the fuel hoses and injector hoses (while I was there…)
Removing the plenum isn’t bad - take lots of pics. Then you can easily get at the lower mounts. There’s no way I could do it with the plenum on.
Putting the plenum back on and aligning the support bracket holes was difficult but if you read some of my previous posts I enlarged the holes in the bracket and that helped me get the bolts back in. Then it was easy.
One of the posters here was right- I had to rock the motor back and forth until it dropped into the mounts correctly. Leave everything loose until it drops into place.
Agree 100% with this approach. Years ago, I did my mounts without removing the intake plenum and I still don't know how I did it. I had access to a lift and it still took me forever. At one point, I almost decided to tow my car to a real mechanic!
Years later, I had to remove the head to replace a burned ex. valve. I thought the intake side and fuel rail would be awful to remove but it was really very easy. I've had the intake stuff off in a couple of other occasions and can remove plenum and fuel rail in about 1/2 hour. About the same to install but very straight forward and makes access to passenger mount child's play.

One other suggestion....If you decide to remove plenum, consider the age of your starter and weather a rebuild might be in order. Starter R/R is very simple with all the intake guts out of the way.
 

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like Don I did it with plenum attached...but also on a 4 poster lift with hydraulic centre slider to raise engine.....It was a rent-a-workshop, I booked 2 hours seeing it was my first time :ROFLMAO:

well two hours later (and my brother was helping!) I was still putting together really long extensions with universal joints on the end taped up in a certain angle....

The driver's side went so easily, I thought "well, what are they all on about over on BB, this is child's stuff"......;)
then I tackled the passenger side...oh boy.
took 5 hours.
That plenum stay is actually the worst part. You fit the mount, the stay wont fit....
you fit the stay to the mount, the mount wont fit....
you have to leave them loose together and then try slip it all into place.

At one stage I lifted the engine so high, the big air hose plopped off (was lucky it didn't tear as it was new)...NB: I'd advise loosen that before an engine mount change, and definitely leave the hood open unless you want the oil cap making an impression underneath!

It would all go quicker now because I know what tools/extensions to have ready in advance
 
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