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Steve what I would try is put 12v straight from battery to the blue wire connector (I think that is the fast speed connector?) on the housing [make sure ign. is off] then twiggle the fan with your finger thru the flap....it might just start up! Mine did!...............I got mine started this way....then stopped the motor and injected loads of WD40 thru the flap between housing and the fan so it collects at the base of the housing where the motor sits, and let it run again for 20 minutes, just from the battery.....so far still running strong!

Of course the ground wire tucked up under the passenger footwell has to be good too;)
 

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Steve what I would try is put 12v straight from battery to the blue wire connector (I think that is the fast speed connector?) on the housing [make sure ign. is off] then twiggle the fan with your finger thru the flap....it might just start up! Mine did!...............I got mine started this way....then stopped the motor and injected loads of WD40 thru the flap between housing and the fan so it collects at the base of the housing where the motor sits, and let it run again for 20 minutes, just from the battery.....so far still running strong!

Of course the ground wire tucked up under the passenger footwell has to be good too;)
Thanks spiderserie4, I tried this with no luck. I would have been very happy if the fan started and pinched my finger, but alas, no luck.

First I confirmed that there was 12 volts at the motor connection with the ignition on and the fan switch on. That test returned "true". I also tested the ground connection (which is tough to get to). Then I turned off the ignition and supplied 12 volts directly to the blower motor wires, again no joy. I even tried banging on the housing hoping that maybe I would free up a stuck brush, but again no luck.

My fan turns very freely, so I've got to assume that the brushes or brush springs are the problem.

Thanks for the suggestion !!
 

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Thanks for the useful info. Yesterday, I removed the whole heater unit from RHD 1975 GT Junior. Splitting the bottom section off helped me get it out without removing the glove box or centre console, but it was a battle. I will probably remove the console to make it easier to refit the fully assembled unit once I get the broken bits replaced. The motor was toasted, heater matrix a pile of rust and control valve leaky - which is why the previous owner had bypassed the whole thing. Thanks for the tip about drilling a couple of drain holes.
 

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Thanks to this thread I was able to replace my 1976 Spider's blower motor - without a dash-board-ectomy... And yes, I did drill weep holes in the bottom of the blower chamber!!
Cutting the sound insulation/carpet padding on the top of the transmission hump was necessary in order to get the new fan assembly in...
 

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More (!) thanks to this thread. I read this prior to tackling the (inoperative) cabin blower motor replacement job. I used my Power Probe to check the ground (good), then power the blue wire (still no fan). I stuck my finger in there and gave the fan a push (it pushed easily) and BINGO. It works now! I'm going to hot wire it ON for awhile, see how she does. VERY HAPPY ALFA OWNER RIGHT NOW.
Now on to the next project. Fix the broken, driver-seat, RF attaching pedestal, for the seat track. The weld broke at the floor. Looks like it needs to be welded from the top.
 

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Spent whole afternoon today trying to remove the heater as it was leaking.
No success so far.

First I removed the air hoses, then a one screw from the bottom part from passenger side. I failed at removing the ones at the back (near the firewall). I can't get there :(
I also failed to remove the front screw from driver's side - nut moves together with the screw.

I then tried to remove the whole unit. I removed top screws from passenger side, disconnected valve from the driver's and stuck there.

I need to remove copper tube from passenger side and top screw of the whole unit on the driver's side.

It's like going through hell. What's worse, I can't drive right now with disconnected tubes and I'm not sure if and when I'll reassembly everything. ;)
 

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I feel your pain. My left front nut was seized to the screw. Had to cut the screw in half with an oscillating tool in-situ.
 

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What about the 4 (or 5) spring clips that hold the top part of the heater box to the middle section. The 2 at the back are up against the bulkhead, getting to those is easier if the whole heater box is loose/unattached on the bulkhead - 4 nuts and large diameter washers on studs hold the top part to the bulkhead

The 2 (or 3) spring clips at the front are easier, but that depends on your console

With the clips removed I found it possible to first slide out the bottom+middle section and then remove the top section. Sliding out the bottom+middle section is easier if the top section is firmly attached to the bulkhead.

On my RHD coupe with standing pedals, I slid it out towards the passenger side footwell. I understand spiders are generally more difficult.

Good luck
 

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What's worse, I can't drive right now with disconnected tubes and I'm not sure if and when I'll reassembly everything. ;)
you should be able to bypass the heater by joining a length of hose from the small waterpump outlet to the heater hose connection on top of the plenum. (tie the original WP hose out of the way, safe)

thats what I did when my heater dumped hot coolant on my feet whilst out on a drive:)
I carry a 4 ft length of heater hose now in the trunk!
 

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you should be able to bypass the heater by joining a length of hose from the small waterpump outlet to the heater hose connection on top of the plenum. (tie the original WP hose out of the way, safe)

thats what I did when my heater dumped hot coolant on my feet whilst out on a drive:)
I carry a 4 ft length of heater hose now in the trunk!
Thanks for the tip! I need some more specific directions though - you mean inside the bonnet, between the engine and firewall?
Or just connect the tubes from left and right side of the heater, inside the car?
 

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this is how I did it on my S4. Dont make it so short that it kinks (hence the 4 foot length, maybe 3 ft. would do it too)
(Photo is an S3, just for illustration purposes..a rhd conversion by the looks of things)
 

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Done. I removed entire heater. I didn't removed dash. First I removed valve from the left (driver) side, which helped with top screws. So proud of myself! ;)

My unit already has small hole in the bottom - no need for drill ;) However, as I have no AC, I wonder what that's for? Especially if it's just a hole, water would be dripping to the carpet.

I took the unit to the local garage, they said it's tight, not leaking. I think that maybe it was just clogged with oil and stuff - I had a serious leaking problems with engine, repaired last winter.

Few pictures attached.

As I am not sure if I will be able to connect everything right (heater, central console wires, etc.) I'd be obliged for any photos how it should look like ;) I took a few pictures myself, but I'm afraid not enough :D
 

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@kbartosiak That looks like an awful lot of crud in your heater box. Are your cowl drains clogged? I would check and fix that now! While it is apart, I would check the operation of the cabin fan. Usually you can easily remove it from the lower case half and inspect the brushes and lube the bearings. Then, test for proper operation using jumper wires to a 12v power source. Lots of other Maintenance and Repair that can be done more easily with the console and h-box removed. Have fun!
 

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@kbartosiak That looks like an awful lot of crud in your heater box. Are your cowl drains clogged? I would check and fix that now! While it is apart, I would check the operation of the cabin fan. Usually you can easily remove it from the lower case half and inspect the brushes and lube the bearings. Then, test for proper operation using jumper wires to a 12v power source. Lots of other Maintenance and Repair that can be done more easily with the console and h-box removed. Have fun!
Drains cleaned, motor working.
Right now working on reconnecting the wires - e.g. grounding was connected instead one of the fan speeds, and (after my work >:)) indicator worked only with doors open ;)
Should be back on the road later today though :)
 
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