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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I dropped the transmission a few weeks ago to do some servicing, replace the release bearing, etc. and in a moment of non-clarity I decided to pull off the flywheel without making any reference marks where it needs to go back onto the crank shaft. I do realize that it has to go back on in an exact position in reference to the sensors.
That being said, any references I've seen from old links go to IAP and the links no longer work.
I've looked and don't see any markings on ether the flywheel or crank shaft. Should there be any markings and maybe I'm missing something?
I also read about getting cylinder 1 to TDC as a reference. If that is my only option, any links on how to do that would be appreciated as I'm not 100% certain of verifying that and once I get cylinder 1 to TCD, how does the flywheel go on after that?
Thanks again for any input and feedback.
LB
 

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I dropped the transmission a few weeks ago to do some servicing, replace the release bearing, etc. and in a moment of non-clarity I decided to pull off the flywheel without making any reference marks where it needs to go back onto the crank shaft. I do realize that it has to go back on in an exact position in reference to the sensors.
That being said, any references I've seen from old links go to IAP and the links no longer work.
I've looked and don't see any markings on ether the flywheel or crank shaft. Should there be any markings and maybe I'm missing something?
I also read about getting cylinder 1 to TDC as a reference. If that is my only option, any links on how to do that would be appreciated as I'm not 100% certain of verifying that and once I get it cylinder 1 to TCD, how does the flywheel go on after that?
Thanks again for any input and feedback.
LB
There should be a mark on the flywheel shown below. This mark is at 12 o'clock with Cylinder No. 1 at TDC on compression stroke.

 

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I've looked and don't see any markings on ether the flywheel or crank shaft. Should there be any markings and maybe I'm missing something?
The mark on the flywheel is small - just a tiny line on the edge. It would be easily hidden under a bit of gunk/rust. The nib for the position sensor is easy to find - the photo shows where to look for the timing mark in relation to the sensor nib. In the attached photo, I had cleaned the mark and put some paint in it.

There are also some marks on the crankshaft pulley - also easily hidden by gunk. When you clean the pulley's edge and find the marks, 'P' indicates TDC.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
I think I got it... I found what looked like a dab of silicon that was dropped between the flywheel and the crank and left a nice mark to help line it up. But I also did my do diligence and double checked everything per the details you both left me.
With the flywheel mark at 12, the crank pulley I believe is at TDC or P (punto morto superior) and I pulled the distributer cap off and the rotor is lined right up to the contact for plug 1. If my assumption is correct, this should all line up to prove I have the flywheel now on correctly.
As always, your assistance is gratefully appreciated!
LB
 

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Looks good.

Last full check for TDC (if you want) on compression stroke is to pull the cam cover and make sure the cam lobes for #1 Cylinder are pointing outward (toward the fenders).
 

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Discussion Starter #7
That I will, I also did a thorough evaluation of the engine and bay and I was weighing the pros and cons last night, this morning and throughout the night... :)
I've got some small leaks on the upper and lower pan to fix, water pump, looks like original motor mounts and on and on and just some general clean up of the motor and engine bay.
So, I've decided I'm just going to pull the motor and do this right.
This way, I can get the transmission and starter bolted back onto the motor before I drop it back in and that alone I think is worth the time and effort.
Speaking of the starter... I've seen a number of threads about the small spacer between the bell housing and the starter. No surprises here, but mine does not have that spacer, but it does have a large spacer between the engine and bell housing. This spacer will have an affect on the alignment of the starter to the ring gear, but right, wrong or indifferent, do I still require that smaller spacer? (Starting my list for APE!)
I've read some older threads for an S2 engine removal but have had no luck finding threads for an S3 removal. My main concern is where I need to hook the lift onto the block to lift it out of the bay.
Thanks again!
LB
 

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I've read some older threads for an S2 engine removal but have had no luck finding threads for an S3 removal. My main concern is where I need to hook the lift onto the block to lift it out of the bay.
If you plan to remove the engine & transmission as a unit move the lifting strap forwards one position. The assembly needs to go up at a steep angle.

The center tie rod needs to be moved out of the way. Unbolt the idler bracket from the right inner fender, lower it down and you won't have to get a front end alignment after it's all back together.
 

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I've read some older threads for an S2 engine removal but have had no luck finding threads for an S3 removal. My main concern is where I need to hook the lift onto the block to lift it out of the bay.
You should have a metal strap that goes across the top of the head between two of the head studs. Normally, it goes between the middle studs, but I moved it forward one set to make it easier to remove the engine and gearbox together. Just hook the hoist to that strap. (You can do this with the cam cover on, but this is the best photo I had of the strap).

 

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Discussion Starter #10
Awesome, I have the transmission currently removed, but plan to connect it to the motor before I drop it back in.
LB
 

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Speaking of the starter... I've seen a number of threads about the small spacer between the bell housing and the starter. No surprises here, but mine does not have that spacer, but it does have a large spacer between the engine and bell housing

if your starter was working fine before you took things apart, very high percentage chance will work fine once reassembled.....
pretty sure if your engine has the complete "ring" around bell housing - including starter area, you do not need the small spacer... one takes place of other.
perhaps others can confirm or deny.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I wasn't able to get the timing pointer in the picture, but as I'm going to pull the engine, this will allow me to get a much clearer view of the timing marks and ensure everything is correct.
Thanks
LB
 

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You don't need to go through all that to time the flywheel. If you look at the threads for the flywheel bolts you will notice that one of the holes have the threads recessed a little bit. Line this hole up with the TDC line on the flywheel and all will be timed correctly.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Jim G and everyone else who added a great wealth of knowledge and experience to my request for help, I say THANK YOU!
I've been working over the last month getting my motor cleaned up and degreased, new motor mounts, f/r seals (yes the correct and better quality rear from Spruel!), water pump, upper and lower pan gaskets, cigarette seals, rad and condenser pressure tested and cleaned, new AC pump, hoses, belts, release bearing (clutch is next to new), etc. and I am in the home stretch, I hope.
I posted what I hope is a clear picture of the recessed thread on one of the holes and the timing mark on the flywheel.
Time to mate the transmission and recruit my neighbors to get this lump back in place and get this Spider back on the road!!!
LBinNM
 

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Last photo worthy of a screen saver! Nothing like a clean aluminum motor. Make it pretty while it's out, man. You can throw the mag wheel cleaner, etc at it and hose it off before you put it back. It's easy to keep it clean; hard to ever make a sludgy lump look as good.

Keep posting progress...
 
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