[ebbrell]

hi all am new to here so hello and be gentle

iam doing a project of converting my 156 v6 2.5 auto to a rwd v6 with either a m90 volvo 5spd or a ford t5 5spd i have 2 of these cars due to some nice women ramming up my back side with her jeep one is off the rd so iam going to take the running gear off that and custome build my own car

i think the v6 is the dogs kahooners and the suspension the really good

any way my question can any one help in with regaurds to fitting the gearbox to the engine as i dont know of anyone who has done it before and people has told me that they dont know

help thanks for your answers and time to read this

 

[Hans-Peter]

In the spider forum there are some threads on putting T5's behind the V6, as a long time Volvo fan I would prefer the T5 over the M90.
I don't want to be rude but this strikes me as a very difficult project without a worthwhile result, go out and buy the very best 75 3.0 you can find, you will have the V6 with RWD, it will cost a small fraction of doing the conversion, you can have it more or less straightaway.

 

[FERRARIST]

I don't want to be rude but this strikes me as a very difficult project without a worthwhile result

Well, it was difficult project and worthwhile result - mid engine'd 156 RWD.....at least i did fastest weekend laptime among 60 Alfas......
And believe me or not, moving engine was the easiest part.......

 

[dan001]

Love this, pure craziness at its best.

Can you post pics of engine location, rear end modification etc

Ta

 

[PSk]

Love this, pure craziness at its best.

Can you post pics of engine location, rear end modification etc

Ta

Yes please. I don't think I can see a roll cage, so I'm a bit confused as surely this is a race car.

And yes taking the whole engine and gearbox assembly and putting it between the rear wheels would save some drama.

I've dreamt about a RWD 166 ... but ...
Pete

 

[Hans-Peter]

Yes I would like to see some photos too, the original post mentioned a M90 or a T5 which indicates leaving the V6 in the front but turning it around 90 degrees and making the car RWD, the project obviously went in another direction altogether.

 

[FERRARIST]

Love this, pure craziness at its best.

Can you post pics of engine location, rear end modification etc

Ta

I'm using Lancia Lybra front wishbones now for my rear - it adds extra camber and gives bit wider track for the rear.

 

[Duk]

Cool car! Good to see someone putting a front wheel drive to proper use (Warms up Matrix moves to dodge the inevitable **** storm! :alucard: )

A couple of suggestions.

Learn to heal/toe your down changes. Unless you actually like backing your car into corners as you release the clutch while braking. Life will be easier for your clutch and gearbox, too.

You've obviously used the front cross member for the rear.
But you will more than likely find the rear roll centre height is to low and I think that and maybe some less than ideal rear bump steer characteristics could be causing some of that wayward rear end behavior the car suffers from.
I think that copying the front and rear roll centre heights and bump steer characteristics of a capable, McPherson strut equipped mid engined car would be a good start. The only car that comes to mind, are the last of the SW20 model Toyota MR2s, as they were (reportedly) the most planted of the MR2s.

 

[FERRARIST]

I don't think I can see a roll cage, so I'm a bit confused as surely this is a race car.

No, there is no roll cage, these pipes is just for extra chassis strength.

A couple of suggestions.
Learn to heal/toe your down changes.

It wont work as it should with stock gearbox IMO.....and most of all on tracks that we drive it's only required to downshift form 5th to 3th.......i mean Serres track in Greece and our local BG "potato fields" that someone called "tracks"......

Unless you actually like backing your car into corners as you release the clutch while braking. Life will be easier for your clutch and gearbox, too.

Correct - braking is much better with clutch and downshift.....

You've obviously used the front cross member for the rear.

Yes.......

But you will more than likely find the rear roll centre height is to low and I think that and maybe some less than ideal rear bump steer characteristics could be causing some of that wayward rear end behavior the car suffers from.

Good point - i can adjust "tie link" to minimize bump steer - sorry but can't find picture of it......

I think that copying the front and rear roll centre heights and bump steer characteristics of a capable, McPherson strut equipped mid engined car would be a good start. The only car that comes to mind, are the last of the SW20 model Toyota MR2s, as they were (reportedly) the most planted of the MR2s.

Next on my to-do list is removing entire front suspension, throw it somewhere between Mars and Venus, and making fully camber - caster - toe adjustable dual unequal A-shaped wishbones........

 

[PSk]

and add a roll cage

Pete

 

[dan001]

that's more like it. nice job, sounds like plenty more mods to come

no rear firewall - do you race with earmuffs on??

 

[FERRARIST]

Bit noisy.......but with helmet on no big problems.....

 

[oz3litre]

The videos don't work for me. They go to a new page that fails to open.

 

[FERRARIST]

The videos don't work for me. They go to a new page that fails to open.

I've just checked it - it works OK...

 

[FERRARIST]

But you will more than likely find the rear roll centre height is to low and I think that and maybe some less than ideal rear bump steer characteristics could be causing some of that wayward rear end behavior the car suffers from.
.

Just find some picture of that area....

 

[Duk]

I'd definitely look at raising the mounting points for the lower control arm to get the rear roll centre height up.
Then you'd have to check bump steer. You definitely wouldn't want any toe out with suspension travel (either bump or rebound) as the @rse end could dart around over bumps and with squat from acceleration and raise from braking.
Some static toe out may help the car turn in, but you'd need the bump steer characteristics to be very consistent (IE: next to no bump steer) to maintain that set toe angle.

 

[FERRARIST]

Yes agree........