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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi to the Transaxle Cognoscenti,

By miracle I have come into the possession of a rustfree Sport Sedan, a '78. I am freaking out since there is no way that I will be able to keep her out of the rain. So, I am considering removing both the front and back windshields, applying some sort of rustproofing to the metal frames, and then re-installing with fresh rubber.

Whattaya think? Should I? Anybody have a idea as to a recommended treatment. How to apply? Remove the old paint first? Etc? Etc?

Help!!!

Thanks Brothers!

P.S. LOL over this ad next to my composing window. It shows a gorgeous hell of buxom blond along with a pitch for Christian Singles. I'd sure like to assist her "spiritual development" :D
 

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rust mort inside the actual frame work of the body.
por15/eastwood anit rust products.

sand prime and paint to match the body.
 

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Good job saving one more. You are going to be like a crazy cat lady with all those sedans. I guess that Alfas are better than cats... They don't poop!

Pics are in order please so I can drool.

Paul
 

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I'll second Shortlife's opinion........POR15

OR

Let me have it and I will keep it garaged and only drive it on nice days!


:rolleyes:

.
 

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i personaly prefer the eastwood version of por15 its just as bullet proof and a tad bit cheeper(or it was last time i got some)

the reason i sugjest rust mort INSIDE of the pillar is that this area is next to imposible to paint unless you have a flexable wand and drill some holes
 

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I'm looking forward to seeing some pictures of process as I'll be duplicating the same very soon. Also wondering whether I should consider doing some drilling as well since i plan to keep mine. ;)
 

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the reason i sugjest rust mort INSIDE of the pillar is that this area is next to imposible to paint unless you have a flexable wand and drill some holes
Never heard of Rust Mort until now - how do you apply it? The last time I used Por-15 it was a brush-on affair, which means you can't really get it inside the pillars...correct?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Yeah, please tell us more about it. How do you apply it? Does it continue to protect if you apply it to non rusty metal? Etc? Etc?
 

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rust mort is a liquid that you simply pour into or brush onto areas..its ideal for anywhere you cannot see like inside frame rails and the crack at the bottom of the inside of your doors...it will stop and prevent rust from ever happening

it CANNOT be painted over..wich is why its ideal for non visable areas where you cant prep the surface
 

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Rustproof?

I would be very hesitant to spray any coating in the pillars. Better to spray or brush a solution of phosphoric acid on it.. "Ospho" by any other name. And it can be painted over...
 

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ive used rust mort on alot of 50's 60's 70s stuff inside of doors inside window pillars inside frame rails inside trunk lids and hood skins ...its better than por15/eastwood in those "impossible" areas...in situations where getting some kind of prevention inside of unsprayable areas is must there realy is no other options..idealys its best suited for cracks and tight spaces or areas where you can slosh it around....personaly id drill a few small holes and get a "undercoating sprayer" and spray it into the pillars or if its exceptionaly clean inside spray it with por 15/eastwood with said undercoating gun.....undercoating guns have some realy intresting 90 deg spray heads that are VERY small and ideal for shooting stuff you can see
 

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POR15 can be sprayed. I loaded it in my spray gun and sprayed the cavity behind the front wheels on my GTV6.
 

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Randy

i can't believe you named her "trixie" i called her just "Honey"
by the way the spider is going for a new engine/ trans/ rear end on monday.
then the shell is going over for R&R
i will keep you updated on her progress.

take good care of my "Honey"
 

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I would be very hesitant to spray any coating in the pillars. Better to spray or brush a solution of phosphoric acid on it.. "Ospho" by any other name. And it can be painted over...
Acid will only convert any existing corrosion. It will actually eat away at good metal. It's also difficult to control its application inside a pillar. How do you clean off the excess ?

The ONLY way to get inside the pillars is with a spray. I use a pressure sprayer with an extended wand made from 5mm irrigation piping and plastic irrigation spray tips.

Randy:
To see the structure of the A pillars on an Alfetta sedan go here: http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/car-restoration/14822-alfetta-sill-cut.html

I still have the cut sections (for instructional purposes) so can get more photos if you need them.

If you are up for it, I'd certainly pull the glass (carefully) and carry out some preventative maintenance. Carefully inspect the areas you can access and ensure the paint is still in good condition. I would also drill a couple of holes in the lowest points of the screen cavity so that any water finding its way under the rubber can drain out. Deburr the holes carefully, remove all swarf, and paint the bare edges of the holes. Apply a little sealer between the rubber and body once the screen is reinstalled to help prevent water ingress but only on the leading edge, and sparingly. Use a good non-hardening mastic NOT SILICON.

Just like mechanical maintenance, we all need to concentrate on maintenance of bodywork. Regular inspection, freeing of drain holes, cleaning crud from inside cavities, checking internal door seals, and regular application of preventative products is the ONLY hope we have of using these cars and keeping them for years to come.

I'm a big fan of cutting extra drain holes where necessary rather than attempting to seal things up watertight. Sealing things up is often not possible, and the act of sealing also prevents you from seeing what's actually going on inside a cavity.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
Hi Beatle, thanks for the encouragement!

What about that stuff, "Waxoyl" or something. I always read about it on English sites. Anybody tried it for internal cavities? How do you spray it. Will it stay in place? How long does it last?

Is Rust Mort acid? I don't care if I can paint over it. I would only use it for internal areas. Will it stay in place? How long does it last?

As long as I have the Alfetta experts attention, what about this: this car is a '78 and it seems to have a very unusual vent set up. All my other sedans have four fresh air outlets, two on each side. But this car has the top outlets blocked off from the fresh air cowl. I think they are supposed to be additional A/C vents, but they don't flow at all. I am going to return them to fresh air duty if possible.

Hey Rick, I changed my mind. She is now Cecilia. Trixie was a bit much. Glad to hear you're making progress. I have a line on a new old stock heater box for Cecilia with fan and heater valve!

Ferrari is down. Needs a temp sensor or something. Nothing major, but she just won't run right. Barely made it home the other night. :(

I have become quite fond of Cecilia's interior. I am going to get a just dash refurbish job on the brown dashboard, and then install a complete brown leather interior, (two front seats, the rear seat and four door panels out of one of my parts cars), after having it restored with new leather. Not soon, but eventually. Of course, before any of that, she is going twinspark. I got some caster bushings, but haven't put them in yet. It's pretty easy. You ever find the pink?
 

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Just like mechanical maintenance, we all need to concentrate on maintenance of bodywork. Regular inspection, freeing of drain holes, cleaning crud from inside cavities, checking internal door seals, and regular application of preventative products is the ONLY hope we have of using these cars and keeping them for years to come.
Kinda like upkeep on the human body! :eek::eek::D:D:D
 

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Randy,


i just got home, i will be looking for the pink. since we have to move out by sunday night.
by the way what was the stuff for the floors that you said i should get?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Rust Bullet first. Then the stuff that I have to ask my pal the sheep metal wizard. I will post tomorrow.
 
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